Which silicone heater? and Board?

So I've pretty much had it with trying to solder the heat bed, and I know I've asked about it, but thought I make an entire new one for people who might have the same question in the future, and also asking about Boards. Is this heater too much? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...1B1WAQGO&psc=1 it says 120V 750W, does that mean it won't work with 24V power supply, does it need to be a 220V like this one? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...1SM8KTJ&psc=1? Also Does it need to be a 300 x300? (it would be sticking underneath the mk2a aluminum bed, which is 315 x 315mm).
EDIT: Update on the silicone bed, so 220V and 120V is for Solid State Relays, so this one will work with my 24V power supply? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/30X3...e-b5ac199315c8
or this one because my 24V is only 500W and this will only leave 100W for everything else. While this one will leave 200W ish? https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=https...IQpeihoM5p08x_

About the board, I just bought a Duet Wifi for my HEVO (Hypercube Evolution), and I'm getting the Tronxy X5s soon in a week or so. I want to replace the board on that one but I want to try something other than Duet. I'm looking at a cheaper option but I'm thinking of RUMBA 8 bit board. Anybody used that before and what do you think about that one? Here's some info about the RUMBA http://reprap.org/wiki/RUMBA. Thanks again.

Umm. if it says 120v - then it needs to be pluigged into the us mains. you know 120volts :-)

You will need a mosfet to let the board control the pad while the pad draws power from the mains. ie: unless it says 12 or 24 volts it does not plug into the printer's power supply, but directly into mains 220volts for the uk and europe and 120 for canada and the states - cos' you lot have always been awkward buggers about that kind of thing :-)

You bought a duet wifi !
wow - nice guys, had a long chat with them at tct and they were running some really cool printers from the duet boards. Including one with a 6 way mixer head !
Apparently the firmware is universal and everything is controlled and adjusted from an uploaded text file. Sounded great, but i already knew what they cost, and they're just way out of my budget range.
But way to rich for my blood. In 30 years of building pcs I've never paid that much for a board, not even for a hi-end gaming system.
I'm currently debating whether to fork out for a mks sbase - the 32bit arm version which will run smoothie ware (so i can borrow the tevo little monster firmware).

The duet wifi is actually over £100 more than the mks sbase that even comes with a basic lcd screen !
Is it worth it ?
Honestly don't know.

They also sell a delta effector made from circuit board that has flashing lights and built in sensors so you probe the board with the effector and nozzle acting as the probe.
It's clever stuff - but not cheap :-)

Had a look at the rumba - too hobbyist for me. I like specific sockets labelled and obvious - you know, for idiots :-)

caved in and ordered an mks sbase 1.3 + basic lcd screen for £45.
This way i can use the touch screen for the sbase and the lcd for the mks base which don't want to talk to anyone.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by iamthebest22

So I've pretty much had it with trying to solder the heat bed,.....

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Didn't I see some where that you are a teacher? Not trying to divert you from your current path ( silicone implant , eh, I mean heater ) do you have any friends at school who may be able to solder your current heater ( i.e. shop or electronic teachers )? Just a thought.............

Hmmm okay, well i'll give the soldering one last try. Yeah my wallet has a deep hole now, but that should be fine when it resets next week xD. Hmm smoothieware, I dunno how I feel about them, I've never tried them before, and I actually have a file here (i'll copy paste) of all the boards that would work on the COREXY. It seems like smoothieware can have filament sensor installed on it (It's a must for me now on all my printers), The reason I didn't go MKS SBASE is because well I just don't like closed source, especially you can't change the drivers. Anyways here are the boards. I am thinking about getting another board for a future build (The SCARA or Simpson type), I'm looking at Drivers that can be exchanged, and must have a USB port that can be connected to Octoprint, which I just realized, that the RUMBA doesn't seem to have?

Duet Wifi / Ethernet	Duet3D.com	32-Bit	Atmel SAM4E8E	Open Source	RepRap Open Source	TMC 2660 Fixed	5, XYZ2 E0 E1	Yes, 2/5 drivers	Wifi / Ethernet	Integrated Webserver
Re-Arm	Panucatt.com	32-Bit	LPC1768 ARM	Open Source	Smoothieware Open Source	Any driver, requires RAMPS shield	5. XYZ2 E0 E1	Yes	With Expansion Board	Replaces Arduino, needs RAMPS Shield
Azteeg X5 GT / Mini	Panucatt.com	32-Bit	LPC1769 ARM	Open Source	Smoothieware Open Source	Any driver with Polulu Socket	GT 5 / Mini 4 XYZ E0 (E1)	Yes	Ethernet (GT with expansion)
Radds / Due	RADDS.ORG	32-Bit	Atmel SAM3X8E	Open Source	Repetier Open Source	Any driver with Polulu Socket	6, XYZ2 E0 E1 E2	Yes	No
Replicape	https://www.thing-printer.com/product/replicape/	32-Bit	AM335x1 from Beaglebone	Open Source	Propr. Firmware, Open Source	TMC 2100 Fixed	5, XYZ2 E0 E1	No Information	Ethernet	Needs Beaglebone Black
Smoothieboard	http://smoothieware.org/smoothieboard	32-Bit	LPC1769 ARM	Open Source	Smoothieware Open Source	A5984 Fixed	5, XYZ E0 E1	No Information	Ethernet	V2 in development
MKS SBASE	https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1047297	32-Bit	LPC1768 ARM	Closed Source	Smoothieware Open Source	TI 8825 Fixed	5, XYZ E0 E1	No	Ethernet
Lerdge Board	https://www.aliexpress.com/store/pro...6a73e34apWoMvz	32-Bit	STM32F4	Closed Source	Propr. Firmware, Closed Source	Several Drivers available	4, XYZ E0	Yes	WiFi	Includes Display
GEN 7	http://reprap.org/wiki/Generation_7_Electronics	32-Bit	LPC1114 ARM	Open Source	Propr. Firmware, Open Source	Any driver with Polulu Socket	4, XYZ E0	No Information	No	DYI board
RAMPS / Arduino	http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4	8-Bit	ATmega 2560	Open Source	Marlin, Repetier Open Source	Any driver with Polulu Socket	5. XYZ2 E0 E1	Limited	No	Cheapest and very common solution
Rumba Board	http://www.reprap.org/wiki/RUMBA	8-Bit	ATmega 2560	Open Source	Marlin, Repetier Open Source	Any driver with Polulu Socket	6. XYZ E0 E1 E2	No Information	No
MKS GEN	http://reprap.org/wiki/MKS_GEN	8-Bit	ATmega 2560	Closed Source	Marlin, Repetier Open Source	Any driver with Polulu Socket	5. XYZ2 E0 E1	No Information	No	All in one solution for RAMPS
MKS BASE	http://reprap.org/wiki/MKS_BASE_1.0	8-Bit	ATmega 2560	Closed Source	Marlin, Repetier Open Source	A4988 Fixed	5. XYZ E0 E1	No Information	No
GT2560	https://www.geeetech.com/wiki/index.php/GT2560	8-Bit	ATmega 2560	Open Source	Marlin, Repetier Open Source	Any driver with Polulu Socket	5. XYZ E0 E1	No Information	No	Geeetech all in one board.

Ah okay so Aardvark, this one will work with my 24V power supply then for sure? https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=https...IQpeihoM5p08x_

So, iamthebest22, your wallet should have recovered, what are you decisions on the heatpad? Fix or replace?

My wallet is super burned now that I also bought the Tronxy X5S xD. I decided to buy a 100W solder, and with my old 25W one, fixed it in 1 minute.... lol. My soldering iron wasn't strong enough. However I found on Aliexpress lots of ones that came soldered, so next time I might just do that lol. However I did learn how to solder properly and have the proper tools now.

Well,congratulations on learning solder...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by iamthebest22

Ah okay so Aardvark, this one will work with my 24V power supply then for sure? https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=https...IQpeihoM5p08x_

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IT's 24volt - so yep.

Pretty sure Mks also do arm boards with stepper motor sockets.

Now I went for the onboard ones for 2 reasons.
1) it's a cheaper board and I'm all about not spneding money I don't have :-)

2) given how amazingly my he3d delta prints - both hi-res and low res, slow and fast. And I haven't changed any firmware, stepper settings or driver modules. I'm of the opinion that 90% of all this messing with drivers, firmware etc just isn't necessary or going to result in faster or better prints. There does seem to be an awful lot of time and money wasted on changing firmware and drivers, when what's more important is fine tuning your slicer to work with your printer and local environs.
Alexa has fairly basic stepper motor drivers, yet can turn out prints as good as anything I've seen online.
Look at this way: I have a car for taking me and my junk where I want to go. It can go faster than the legal maximum speed limit, it can carry up to 6 passengers, or 4 and my crap in the boot. It's not a new or expensive car, but it can do everything necessary in a car.
It won't accelerate to 60mph in 3 seconds or hit 150mph max top speed. But then I am NEVER going to use or need that.
I think this messing about with stuff that won't make any practical difference is in the same league. Instead of actually learning how to use their printers properly, people think that throwing money at it is a viable alternative and will magically improve their prints. It won't, at some point you will still have to put the work in learning how to tune your slicer for your printer and environment and materials.

Spending £150 + for a board that is going to run a fairly basic printer is ludicrous.
If on the other hand you are making a large printer with 6 extruders and a mixing nozzle (like duet have) - then, yes it's a good idea.
But for a fairly ordinary 3d printer it's like me repalcing my car's 1.6l engine with a 3 litre turbo charge 500 hp monster. All that will happen is that I'm far more likely to get caught speeding and I'll spend 3 times as much money on fuel :-)

While I agree with most of what you said, CA, the only firmware update I am considering is to add distortion correction. I think that is a needed additional that is already in most repetier builds. I consider that a miss on the part of the HE3D team. They did however send me the firmware and configuration.h file used so I can make a single change.

what does it do and why don't I need it ?
Or is there something going on I just haven't noticed ?

Distortion correction-I had it in spades with my glass bed, not so with the base aluminum heater bed. Distortion correction will map multiple heights of your bed ( using the Map Bed Height tool) and then can automatically correct , during printing, dips and valleys on the bed.
Maybe with PrintBite, you dont need it ( I plan to purchase it soon ) .
Another change I will plan to make ( as long as I am doing it ) is to change the heating profile of the bed. As you noticed and commented on, it takes a long time to get to the last 10 degrees of target. That can be changed in the configuration.h settings ( not eprom) Temperature Control Range (pid_control_range) in which the range where the selected heat manager controls output. Outside this range extruder/bed are heated with full power. HE3D K200 uses 10*, I am planning on changing to 5.

so is the distortion correction eays to use ?
or is it still lots of stupid calculations entered manually that never actually do what the turotial says it will ?

If it's just press a button and it probes lots of spots and then calculates it automatically then, yes I'd like that.

Change the range to 0 if you can. what's the point of slowing down at all before it hits the right temp ?

I have still yet to work out where I get a configuration.h file from.

Would be good to have a look, just not sure where I get it or how i get it back to the printer.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by curious aardvark

so is the distortion correction eays to use ?
or is it still lots of stupid calculations entered manually that never actually do what the turotial says it will ?

If it's just press a button and it probes lots of spots and then calculates it automatically then, yes I'd like that.

Change the range to 0 if you can. what's the point of slowing down at all before it hits the right temp ?

I have still yet to work out where I get a configuration.h file from.

Would be good to have a look, just not sure where I get it or how i get it back to the printer.

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Welllllll, it's supposed to be easy.......... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9URtv2LqKc But you know the difference between theory and practice ;-)

CA, the point of slowing down the heating on the heated bed (your extruder also does this) is to avoid overshoot. If you don't slow it down as it approaches the temperature (and like wise slowly ramp up the power as it cools down past the temperature), you end up overshooting your target temperature and having your actual temperature swing back and forth around the target temperature which isn't good for your prints. It'll cause inconsistent extrusion (if hotend does this) or may cause your parts to become unstuck from the bed due to heating and cooling.

As for the distortion correction, sounds like mesh bed leveling. It can be done manually or if you have a bed sensor, automatically.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Trakyan

CA, the point of slowing down the heating on the heated bed (your extruder also does this) is to avoid overshoot.

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I understand that. It will clearly be a watch and see. Unfortunately, there is only one setting for both the extruder and bed. The bed clearly can use this as it takes a few minutes to reach the last 5 degrees of target ( and thats just with a target of 50. 100* is a loooooong time. So overshoot is not an issue here.
On the extruder, well that may be a different point, but again once it is within 5 degrees of target, the final ramp is more controlled.

Oh, and this is specific to my HE3D K200. YMMV.

I was explaining to CA who asked why you would slow it down at all. I find it odd the bed and hotend run on the same pid. If you're willing to do some firmware digging you could probably seperate the two without too much difficulty.

Cheers Trakyan - that make sense.
got no issues with the hotend heating up, that's quick.

It's the bed that's the issue. given that on 50c it usually runs 5-9c hot and on 90c about the same cold. Can't see swing being that much of an issue.

lol that's not what I would call automatic bed levilling.
For it to be automatic you click one button labelled 'autolevel' and it does all that crap by itself.
Anything else just shouldn't be called 'Auto' :-)

The issue with the bed is odd, they don't usually run too hot, too cold is fairly common. Does it stay 5-9 degrees hotter than it should be during the whole print or just initially? It could still be a PID issue just of the opposite extreme, hard to say.

And I understand the bed leveling issue, it's why I added the "if you have a bed sensor" clause to cover my butt with that statement :p
I hear manual leveling on a delta can be painful.