E3Pro auto home malfunctioning

Relative noob with E3Pro that was working until today when print about 1/4 to 1/3 completed became unstuck with resulting giant bird-nest. Then I levelled the bed as usual, print began, then nozzle just went into bed. Sliced new stl in Cura with standard Cura profile and Chep's good profile also, then did complete levelling routine with Zstop adjustment, etc. Now when I auto home the carriage will raise a bit, move slightly to the right, raise about 5-6 mm and stop without going back down to the normal position ready for levelling. No BLTouch, etc installed. Patience and knowledge(!) exhausted! Any ideas short of trashing it? Have been considering replacing with a new 4.2.7 silent board and possible firm-ware up-date--is it time for that? Sort of a wuss way out but for this I'm no t very macho. Appreciate any/all help!Enable GingerCannot connect to Ginger Check your internet connection
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Is it possible your z-limit switch is toggled on permanently?

Thanks Martin, good point but no, I don't think so. To test, I just tried auto home by holding down the z-limit switch and then with the switch released. The carriage did it's same weird moves both times. Honestly, I don't know if that is even a valid test! Thanks, you just won 3 more free tries to help me out!!

If it’s an issue in the switch/wiring though, then toggling it may not help. Do you have an option to replace the switch/wiring?

OK> I had another micro-switch but not the wire harness. Installation did not change anything unfortunately. Straw grasping, might it be something in Marlin that has flipped out? At my level, messing with Marlin is pretty much verbotten plus I don't even know anyone with a 3D printer to talk with! (Very rural area!) Everything I know is sourced by reading and a bit from fora like this one and a lot from You Tube! I find that complicated issues, like so many in 3D printing with all its variables are so difficult to explain clearly and understandably that it is hard to reliably get help from the foras I visit. I believe many people are happy to share their knowledge but time constraints set a barrier. Messaging back and forth to even get an inkling of how much the person knows, what has been modified, tried, etc, etc, requires such time as to be a real TASK. Like explaining how to make a wheel to a Neanderthal. Life is like that. It's just the way it is; I have no problem with that and just keep plugging. Minds me of the first printer maker--who did he turn to when it failed for the 13th time?I just made the decision to go ahead and get a 4.2.7 MB. Maybe that will solve my issue(s). We'll find out if the more-money-than-brains approach will work! Thank you so much for your interest and willingness to help. It looks well on you!

Generally no. Marlin doesn't generally change anything unless you tell it to. More likely it's a short in the wiring.
One thing that may be able to help is if you're running Marlin, you can use M119 to look at what's going on with the endstops and make sure they are working. You may need to plug a computer in to see the results.

https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M119.html

I unfortunately have an innate aversion to programming languages like Fortran, Cobol, C++ dating back many years. Early on I didn't have time or reason to invest or confidence to begin the learning process, and today at age 83, I am at an even worse position! I checked out your included link and know I can at least accomplish that without trashing the works! I'll read up on how to connect my PC, etc, and get started. Thank for hanging in with me!


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nable GingerCannot connect to Ginger Check your internet connection
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who's ginger ?
Ah okay - looks like an add-on grammar checker.
Seems weird that it would keep inderting messages into your posts :-)

One quick thing you can try.
Most firmwares have an option for reset to factory defaults.
That is usually worth trying before anything more complicated.
Should be an option you can access through the control panel.

Failing that - simply reflash the firmware you are already using.

It's clearly registering the end stops - so that's not the issue.

Give it a go before the new board arrives :-)

Ahh--the calming voice of reason. Obviously I should have known and done that and I will. That Ginger thing is another embarrassment with some unknown cause. Happens on this site every time but I'm able to edit it out USUALLY, which I'll attempt again. You'll see if I'm successful. Thanks for your suggestion!
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wouldn't worry about it - and at least you're grammar will be good :-)

It has to be said that this forum does do weird things fairly regularly. one too many advert add-ons maybe ;-)

I've done quite a bit since last post but I won't try to iterate it all. Briefly, the new board arrived and was installed, updated the firmware and now the blue screen appears, blinks occasionally but nothing else happens. So, I'm clearly in way over my head, way above my pay grade. Having to publically and continually show my ignorance, and it only gets worse, is rapidly eroding the little confidence I have left. Apparently I'm unable to succeed because I lack so much basic knowledge about the fundamentals. For that and whatever other reasons I really believe I need personal, hands-on guidance so I can immediately ask questions that arise as we move along, somewhat akin to elementary schooling! I've tried to find 3D fans locally without luck. Am now posting ads in news-paper and we'll see how it develops. It is not equitable to those of you who take the time and interest to help me, as I am unable to make proper use of your advice. When I can find that in-person help I intend to continue. Finally, it is extremely difficult for me to express how much all of your efforts mean to me and I appreciate everyone so much. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
PS-- Yes Ginger is a spelling and grammar extension. I'm still fighting it!Enable GingerCannot connect to Ginger Check your internet connection
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yeah, what usually seesm to happen is that the new board doesn't have the correct settings for whatever screen you have. And with marlin you have to download seperate screen packs to ide before you attempt to flash the bloody firmware and make the bin file.

It's one reason I really dislike marlin, it's just so bloody complicated rto get it to work.
Once it's working it's fine. But otherwise it's a bloody nightmare.

Did you try flashing the old board back to a fresh copy of the firmware you were using ?

Do you have a makerspace in your area ?
I know they're alot more common in the states than they are over here in the uk.
Somewhere like that would be stuffed full of anoracks just begging to fix your printer :-)

But yeah - screens and marlin, definitely not good.

what is the new board ?

This sounds suspiciously like the problem identified here.https://focalise.ie/fix-ender-3-pro-blank-screen/
Give that a shot and see if anything changes.

Well, Martin and Aardvark, you must be gluttons for punishment, but if you're still game, I'll HAPPILY follow you! Now I'll be referring to your 4-20 posts and pray you can understand which of my comments/questions apply to your individual post. The board I removed from the Ender 3 Pro was a V1.1.4 and I replaced it with a Creality V 4.2.7 (still in there). Aardvark, you last asked if I had tried flashing the old board with a fresh copy of the firmware I was using--No, I didn't. And Martin, you suggested the FOCALISE post calling for 'Ender-3 Pro_4.2.2_Firmware_Marlin2.0.1 - V1.0.1.bin' firmware, which sounds good to me. I am willing to re-install the old V1.1.4 board and flash with the suggested 4.2.2 firmware--does that make sense, flashing a V1.1.4 board with V4.2.2 firmware? (Shows how dismal my thinking is!) Is that a reasonable next step? An aside, condolences for Prince Philip--he will be missed. Also, everyone I know supports GB's EU divorce--I just hope the current DC mob running (sic!) our country will fully support you as Trump stated he would do.

we're damn glad NOT to have trumps support for anything !
That was a surreal 4 years and no mistake. I still can't figure out how it happened.

The weird thing about phillip is that most of us had no idea of all the thuings he'd done until he died.
Self promotion is not something the royal family go in for, that and still sending their progeny into harms way on active military service is why we still have them.
That and billions of pounds in tourism money.
But in this day and age for a 'royal' family to STILL put their children in harms way in service to their country - is something special.
I know harry gets a lot of stick. But if he'd been born 500 years ago, that man could have conquored the whole damn world. His armies would have followed him into the teeth of hell.
Very impressive young man. Just watch him at the invictus games with the ex-servicemen.
The english media are a collective bunch of arseholes. But that's a rant for another day :-)

back to your printer :-)
personally I would flash the new firmware on the NEW board. And use the older firmware on the older board.
Seems like a safer bet all round.

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Originally Posted by phranch

Well, Martin and Aardvark, you must be gluttons for punishment, but if you're still game, I'll HAPPILY follow you! Now I'll be referring to your 4-20 posts and pray you can understand which of my comments/questions apply to your individual post. The board I removed from the Ender 3 Pro was a V1.1.4 and I replaced it with a Creality V 4.2.7 (still in there). Aardvark, you last asked if I had tried flashing the old board with a fresh copy of the firmware I was using--No, I didn't. And Martin, you suggested the FOCALISE post calling for 'Ender-3 Pro_4.2.2_Firmware_Marlin2.0.1 - V1.0.1.bin' firmware, which sounds good to me. I am willing to re-install the old V1.1.4 board and flash with the suggested 4.2.2 firmware--does that make sense, flashing a V1.1.4 board with V4.2.2 firmware? (Shows how dismal my thinking is!) Is that a reasonable next step? An aside, condolences for Prince Philip--he will be missed. Also, everyone I know supports GB's EU divorce--I just hope the current DC mob running (sic!) our country will fully support you as Trump stated he would do.

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Board numbers are good. Maybe hold off on flashing firmware for a sec.
Looks like that board should have come with firmware pre-installed. https://www.creality3dofficial.com/p...inboard-v4-2-7

Try flashing the suitable firmware from here (probably Ender-3 Pro- 4.2.7-TMC2225 Marlin2.0.1 – V1.0.1 )https://forums.creality3dofficial.co...s/ender-3-pro/

Then let us know what happened.

Aardvark, why do you think the endstops are working? "Raise, pause (sense), raise" is a common indication that the Z-endstop is permanently triggered on.

endstops were tested. gantry stops at endstop and then moves back up. If the endstops stop working the motors keep moving the part. That did not happen.
It clearly registered the endstop.

I realise you only google stuff martin, but I tend to go more on 8 years experience with 6 different 3d printers - actual real world experience.
And as a rule when endstops stop working, they just stop working. 90% of the time it's the wiring, the actual switches are such simple and robust mechanisms that they tend not to die.
Everything here indicates that the endstop is fully functional.

Seems pretty clear.

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Originally Posted by curious aardvark

endstops were tested. gantry stops at endstop and then moves back up.

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Where was that written?

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Originally Posted by curious aardvark

If the endstops stop working the motors keep moving the part. That did not happen.It clearly registered the endstop.

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That is not correct. There are two modes. If an endstop fails to trigger, then the motors keep moving along that axis. If an endstop is permanently triggered on, then you get the weird behaviour when an axis, 1) moves back to release the endstop, 2) stops and begins the sensing routine, and 3) moves back again as it detected the endstop again immediately., which is what the OP reported. Very common behaviour when a firmware has the sensor pin's high/low configuration incorrect for an endstop.

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Originally Posted by curious aardvark

I realise you only google stuff martin, but I tend to go more on 8 years experience with 6 different 3d printers - actual real world experience.

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Six whole printers. Wow!

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Originally Posted by curious aardvark

And as a rule when endstops stop working, they just stop working. 90% of the time it's the wiring, the actual switches are such simple and robust mechanisms that they tend not to die.Everything here indicates that the endstop is fully functional.Seems pretty clear.

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Agreed. Most of the time, when an end stop stops working, then it's a broken wire and the endstop won't trigger. However, the OP's symptoms don't suggest that is the problem. In this case, an endstop jammed "on" does explain the symptoms. It could also be a glitch in the firmware. M119 is a good spot to start........well, once we fix the blue screen problem of the new board.

Ok, just did some googling on the Ender. It has NC endstops (normally closed). That was a bit of a surprise.

What this means is that the disgnosis (that an endstop was permanently triggered) was likely correct, but the cause was much simpler – likely a broken wire.

In an NC endstop, the sensor is always closed, with the pin pulled to ground. When the switch is toggled, the circuit opens, and the pullup makes that pin high. If a wire breaks in an NC endstop, it has the same effect as when it is triggered and acts as a failsafe.

Phranch, once you get the board and screen working again, I'd look closely at the wires to your endswitch. Assuming that the Ender 3 is running NC endstops, then it's likely that the wire or connection is dodgy.

It is clear I am among my betters and enjoying every minute! Martin, please forgive my questioning but here is an area of continuing confusion for me. When I go to the official Creality forum you cited, it opens with the item "Ender 3 Pro (V4 mainboard) Marlin201 - V0.0.5 (Default Firmware)" dated 19 Sep, 2020 being HIGH-LIGHTED, while just above it dated 20 Aug, 2020 is "Ender 3 Pro-4.2.7-TMC2225 Marlin 2.0.1-V1.0.1". Further, at the www. creality.com/download site is listed "Ender-3 Pro 4.2.7 mainboard firmware (32bit) .zip". Which one do you think I should use? In different places I have read that versions are often the same, or very similar, and that more than one may work. For some one floundering as I am, this constitutes fatal overload! Hope you can understand my situation. I am now checking the wiring and connections again and once I receive your further advice, I'll re-flash.
Aardvark, I have re-discovered the adage that you are never to old to (re)-learn! Also, I just experienced the renowned British quick wit, sharp barbed and mastery of the language! What I re-discovered was 2 sins never to make--talk politics and offer un-invited opinion. Game, set, match. Touche! As with most blundering fools, I meant no harm or offense. Here in the states a growing majority are recognizing that our country and freedoms are under assault on so many fronts, freedom of speech, right to bear arms, religion, immigration abuse, history rewriting, double-standards, ad nauseum. Our current Socialist leaders are actively and aggressively undoing all the good practices and policies we believe Trump was on-target with, including abridging of the Constitution, buffoon though he may have been with elements of his personality. I fully respect your opinions and feelings and wish our beloved cousins in Great Britain the very best in all endeavors. And I especially appreciated your help and further interest!

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Originally Posted by phranch

It is clear I am among my betters and enjoying every minute! Martin, please forgive my questioning but here is an area of continuing confusion for me. When I go to the official Creality forum you cited, it opens with the item "Ender 3 Pro (V4 mainboard) Marlin201 - V0.0.5 (Default Firmware)" dated 19 Sep, 2020 being HIGH-LIGHTED, while just above it dated 20 Aug, 2020 is "Ender 3 Pro-4.2.7-TMC2225 Marlin 2.0.1-V1.0.1". Further, at the www. creality.com/download site is listed "Ender-3 Pro 4.2.7 mainboard firmware (32bit) .zip". Which one do you think I should use? In different places I have read that versions are often the same, or very similar, and that more than one may work. For some one floundering as I am, this constitutes fatal overload! Hope you can understand my situation. I am now checking the wiring and connections again and once I receive your further advice, I'll re-flash.

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That www. creality.com/download has a .zip file that includes all the firmware variants.Of those, I'd probably try Ender 3 Pro-4.2.7-TMC2225 Marlin 2.0.1-V1.0.1, unless your machine has a transfer board, or filament sensor, in which case try the version that includes support for that.

OK Martin, update. I removed the 2-wire harness between the Z-stop switch and the 4.2.7 board, and checked continuity of both leads with a multi-meter, and both were good. I'm not sure how to check within the plug sockets themselves, so that remains as a potential problem. I re-downloaded the .Zip file from creality.com/download that you suggested. Unzipped, several options appeared, like for BL, transfer and filament boards, and I selected ORIGINAL FIRMWARE. Next, 3 options were available--(1) Ender-3 Pro 4.2.7 mainboard firmware (32 bit) (2) Ender-3 Pro Marlin2.0.1 V1.0.1 TMC2225 English (3) A file similar to #2 except in Chinese. I chose #2 (#1 was not a .bin file). Copied that file to a blank formatted 8 GB SD card. Put card into printer and turned it on. A blue screen appeared which shortly became the usual Creality logo, but with no other response other than an occasional blink and a high pitched whine. So my nightmare continues. If you were in the US, I'd presumptuously suggest using a remote control app like Team Viewer, just to get me out of the loop because I must somehow be the problem!

OK Martin, update. I removed the 2-wire harness between the Z-stop switch and the 4.2.7 board, and checked continuity of both leads with a multi-meter, and both were good. I'm not sure how to check within the plug sockets themselves, so that remains as a potential problem. I re-downloaded the .Zip file from creality.com/download that you suggested. Unzipped, several options appeared, like for BL, transfer and filament boards, and I selected ORIGINAL FIRMWARE. Next, 3 options were available--(1) Ender-3 Pro 4.2.7 mainboard firmware (32 bit) (2) Ender-3 Pro Marlin2.0.1 V1.0.1 TMC2225 English (3) A file similar to #2 except in Chinese. I chose #2 (#1 was not a .bin file). Copied that file to a blank formatted 8 GB SD card. Put card into printer and turned it on. A blue screen appeared which shortly became the usual Creality logo, but with no other response other than an occasional blink and a high pitched whine. So my nightmare continues. If you were in the US, I'd presumptuously suggest using a remote control app like Team Viewer, just to get me out of the loop because I must somehow be the problem!

When I view my post from a few moments ago, it is filled with a lot of garbage that I did not put there and am unable to remove!!!! Weird!
Now, 45 seconds later, the junk is gone. Maybe I've already gone crazy!

Euuugh. That's a tangled web. Technically, the 4.2.7 board is supposed to be a simple swap in, but I'm seeing an awful lot of posts where that hasn't worked, and firmware twiddling was required. This feels like a firmware issue, but it's going to be difficult to diagnose as there are so many potential Ender 3Pro variants out there.

What happens if you chuck the original board back in. Does it still do the raise, stop, raise, behaviour? That might at least get you printing again.

I assume that your E3D pro doesn't have a touch screen?Do you know if it has a transfer board installed or not? (see point 8, here - https://howchoo.com/ender3/install-b...ender-3-v2-pro). It shouldn't affect anything if there's no BL Touch, but any information is good.

And yes, this forum software is bad. :D

Man, you sure do exhibit tenacity and perseverance! OK, I will put the V1.1.4 board board back in. Neither it nor my 4.2.7 board have touch screen, BL, filament or transfer capability built in. It seems that the V1.1.4 doesn't have a bootloader installed so firmware flashing must be done with Marlin, Octopi and a Raspberry Pi--right? I actually do have a Raspberry which was used when I had a computer tech come out back when to flash the V1.1.4--all that is beyond me!! (That was an interesting session because he knows NOTHING about 3D printing and I had to preassemble all the download sites, YouTube how-to vids and programs like Pronterface, Visual Studio, Octopi. Can you imagine ME trying to help him through all that???? He is a dear friend who indulges me greatly! I sense we'll have to do something similar again.) But I will put it back in and use the original SD card content that came with the board if necessary. More to follow later....and another big thank you for now.

Man, you sure do exhibit tenacity and perseverance! OK, I will put the V1.1.4 board board back in. Neither it nor my 4.2.7 board have touch screen, BL, filament or transfer capability built in. It seems that the V1.1.4 doesn't have a bootloader installed so firmware flashing must be done with Marlin, Octopi and a Raspberry Pi--right? I actually do have a Raspberry which was used when I had a computer tech come out back when to flash the V1.1.4--all that is beyond me!! (That was an interesting session because he knows NOTHING about 3D printing and I had to preassemble all the download sites, YouTube how-to vids and programs like Pronterface, Visual Studio, Octopi. Can you imagine ME trying to help him through all that???? He is a dear friend who indulges me greatly! I sense we'll have to do something similar again.) But I will put it back in and use the original SD card content that came with the board if necessary. More to follow later....and another big thank you for now.

Forgot to post my last reply until just now! So I re-installed the V1.1.4, loaded the original SD card files that came with the E3Pro, placed into the printer. Turned it on and auto home seemed ok. Noted the the display immediately showed 354 at the nozzle and 25 on the bed. Set my normal temps of 215 and 63 and in 2 or 3 seconds a message of 'HIGH TEMP, RESET' came up. Tried a couple more times with same results, so obviously something is amiss, although I couldn't detect any heat in the nozzle. Went ahead and leveled the bed COLD so I could check auto home and it appeared to be correct! I'm reassured by this tiny positive result but still have no idea why the 4.2.7 is askance or the anomaly in the nozzle circuit exists.

Ok, let's split this up into two problems. Board 1.1.4 'works', and may be useful to find hardware issues. Board 4.2.7. doesn't (yet), most likely due to incompatible firmware (thanks Creality).

The high temp value suggests a short directly across the thermistor. Hopefully, that's all it is, and there isn't any board damage (e.g., https://support.th3dstudio.com/hc/gu...-or-lcd-blank/). To test, switch the bed and hotend thermistor at the board, and see if the high temp value changes to the bed.

The fact that this is the second possible "short" suggests something is amiss in the hardware. Maybe avoid using the new board until 'something' shows up that can pinpoint where these shorts are coming from. Could be the board acting up, or something else. Have a look over the whole printer and just double check that all wiring is clean. Not pinched anywhere. No gaps in insulation.

Rigged adapters so I could switch the nozzle heater and hotend thermistor at the board as suggested. Turned it on, no change in the readings. After watching for a minute or so to see if the nozzle temp would go down, I set the temp to about 50; as soon as I pressed the display button, got the MAXTEMP error. Tried a new nozzle heating element, it showed the error, both in the correct and reversed positions. Then used a new thermistor, cylindrical style, turned it on, and the temp showed normal!! (The wires at the 'bead' were bare.) Stopped there to reconnect wires and re-thread the thermistor the loom. I'll make a fresh start from scratch to do things properly later for a REAL check-out! Another thank you!
PS--Looking to the future. why didn't I check those in the first place, without having to involve you? Simple lack of experience and knowledge, I suppose....

What do you mean by rigged adaptors? Aren't they using similar plugs? Can't you just swap the plugs at the board so the bed thermistor goes to the hotend thermistor port and vice versa?

Anyway, sound like you solved it - short at the thermistor bulb. That doesn't solve the raise-stop-raise you noted in the original post, but that may have simply been a loose connection, which you have now reseated. Hopefully your E3 is now working and we can look at what's going on with the 4.2.7 board.

One last thing, you mentioned two different thermistor types, cylindrical and bulb. How is your hotend setup? Does this mean you're out of action waiting for a suitable thermistor.

Ahhhh, another shortcoming glaringly exposed! I'm confusing part-name terminology. A graphic example of how difficult it must be for Good Samaritans to patiently stay the course with boob noobs. No, thankfully I have several of each thermistor styles. Continued.....

lol
we could have an interesting discussion of the 'freedoms' that are being 'lost'.
But in a world where people happily install multiple programs on their phones that track their every move and report back to faceless corporrations in foreign countries. And the average supermarket knows more about your lifestyle and eating habits than you do yourself -
I'm not sure your main enemy is the governemnt - but a simple lack of perspective.

As far as the right to bear arms goes. well that was put into american law in an era when the governemnt could not afford a standing army and they were happy to just use an armed population. In our current society - it has no real meaning.

The problem is that most people have no grasp of history and absolutely none of the amount of information being held on them by commercial corporations.

But hey, blame the politicians for the 'freedoms' people are happily giving away to profit making corporations. No government EVER made a profit :-)

But anyway, how's the printer going ?

Hello once again, Aardvark! Somehow, I felt we had passed the political phase after your bitterly emetic dismissal in your last response. While I am admittedly lacking in 3D printing skills, I assure you I have at least adequate knowledge of American history, freedoms, rights of free speech and arms bearing as it applies to me as an American citizen, to the point that unsolicited opinions by non-citizens are, well, boorish, if not rude. I have no ax to grind with you and am simply voicing opposition here to your unfounded assumptions that my ideas of freedoms, rights and perspectives are deficient, requiring a lecture. I happily accord you my full respect as a 3D expert and moderator and am very grateful for your help in furthering my meager 3D knowledge.My printer is being about as obstinate as I am but small advances are being made with the patient help of Martin_au. Confidence is growing a bit but I have so far to go. Thank you for your inquiry!

Martin and Aardvark, here's a large advance, at least for me! I replaced the 4.2.7 board and did all that is normally done at this point, plus paid very, very close attention to all things related to selection and installation of the proper firmware--- and it finally worked. Actually did a 1 hour print which came out perfectly, including new entries on the display panel. A small accomplishment really, but a stellar achievement for me, after such a ' long and winding road'! The only identifiable fixes were the broken thermistor lead and, I am sure, the correct firmware plus tightened connections, etc. What kept me going was the support and advice you lavished on me--absolutely essential. Thanks so very much! We'll see how well I handle my next disaster. Keep up the good work; it means a lot!