Ender 5 suitable for ABS / HIPS printing?

I?m looking to embark on my first 3D printing adventure and would be grateful of any advice regarding printing using ABS or HIPS filaments. I have researched as much as I can understand as far as materials go and printer capabilities. I initially have a specific need to create an enclosure for an existing electronic project. The current enclosure I have sourced is listed as being made from ABS and Polystyrene although I?m unsure as to whether material is a blend as opposed to either ABS OR Polystyrene and if the polystyrene is High Impact Polystyrene.
With regards to printing filaments I can see that it appears I must choose from EITHER ABS OR Polystyrene as I have not yet discovered a filament blended of these two materials if one even exists.
I have also read that both of these materials have a significantly higher printing temperature than PLA and other filaments.
I would like to know if the 3D printer that appears to meet my needs that I have been looking at purchasing, which is the Creality Ender 5, is suitable for the materials I need to print with. I have seen the recommendations for full metal hot ends and higher temperature tubing along with a few other upgrades. I would rather purchase a printer that is more that capable of printing with higher temperature materials than one that will produce a result but at the upper limit of its capabilities. Please excuse my ignorance on this subject, I?m researching as much as I can for myself but personal experience and knowledge from others is golden in a situation like this.
Would anyone have any suggestions as to suitable printers and or materials or to produce what I require or any reason why the Ender 5 may not be the best choice within my budget and requirements.
Many thanks for taking the time to read and hope to lose my filament virginity soon!

well the ender 5 is better than the ender 3 (but then so is being kicked in the groin by a professional rugby player) . But at the end of the day, it is still an ender made by creality. so don't expect quality build, components or any support from the company.
The new anet a8 PLUS - is probably a better buy.

Thats said - no it's not really suited for abs.
You really need an enclosed print volume for abs.
Temperature wise, printing should not be a problem. Abs normally runs at around 235-255 - so most decent hotends will print it without issue.
But it's not an abs friendly printer, out of the box.

Plus it's still using a bowden extruder - I don't think anyone knows why. There's no logical reason not to use a direct drive extruder - which is much better.
But then there's no logical reason not to use a direct drive extruder on an i3 either.

I have to admit I have never printed with hips - but as far as I know, there are no inherent problems and you don't need heated volume.

Now why do you think you have to make these enclosures out of the same material ?
pet-g or pla would probably be at least as good.
For outdoor and solvent resistance both are better than abs. From a 3 printed point of view, both are stronger and more durable.

Why are you so against Ender 3's? Honestly for the price point they are probably the best 3d printer to get someone into 3d printing. Sub $200 USD is hard to beat for the quality of print you can get from them. Sure they requiring fine tuning, assembly, testing - but most printers do.

Back to OP - I do agree that an enclosure should be used for ABS (need to keep the bed temps up, and that's hard to do even in a small room with no fans) although you can literally build an enclosure out of MDF wood if you have the tools/space to try. The hardest part is making sure the sensitive electronics (power supply and control boards) are NOT in the enclosed space - we want to keep those things cooled after all.
this will usually require rewiring of some parts (extensions) as well as a bulky take-down of the printer (to re-wire to a safer route) and once it's done, your not going to ever want to revert it. (all the hassle of rewiring again, re routing the wires, etc)

It also depends on your application for the 'need' for ABS/HIPS - many parts, prints and otherwise can be printed using other methods and plastics to give similar results to ABS, and yes some need to go even higher than ABS temps - but some don't. It really depends on what your using the printed object for.

Hello;

I have printed with a Prusa i3 Clone Hictop 3DP11/12 for some years now and have had no problems printing ABS.

It is much easier to print ABS when using an enclosure. I basically made a simple enclosure using a single sheet of particle board and Clear plastic sheets.

Attachment 13253

Taking a sheet of particle board and cutting it into 5 pieces and fitting them together into a box with one open side where the Clear Plastic door attach.
Now this is not a great piece of work as it slipped when being glued together a little out of square, oh well!

I still have little problems with ABS when printing real thin pieces as they are too fragile and break easily while the same print in PLA works?

why am I against ender 3's ?

take a look around the forum. In the last 12 months we've had more posts about problems with ender 3 than ALL other printers combined.
And we're just one forum !

Plus they looked at all the best design features of josef prusa's I3 and said: 'Nah, we don't need any of that stuff - let's just have one central bed support, one z axis motor and a bowden based extruder.'
It might be suitable for an experienced user - but it's absolutely NOT suited for a beginner and definitely should never be a first printer for anyone.

On top of that, they do seem to have a lot of quality control issues and I've yet to hear of anyone who's had a positive experience with creality's 'support'.

It's a bad design, it's made with poor components and the manufacturer doesn't appear to give a crap.

Okay with a fair bit of work and modifications you can make it work.
But a first printer shouldn't need to be re-built to work.

The ender 5 is much better than the ender 3

I was a beginner who knew nothing about 3d printing about 2 years ago. I bought a high quality machine and spent a huge amount of time learning the slicer and other caveats of the fabrication method. Had I purchased a sub par machine like the ender line, I would have given up or spent more money for a real machine. $200 spent on a cheap, poorly designed and built tool, is a waste of $200. To each his own, but I would tell anyone who wants to get into 3d printing to wait until they have sufficient funds to be able to by a quality tool. But I do realize that many of the folks buying these are kids and $200 is a lot of money, all the reason not to waste it.. You don't learn anything fighting with hardware that does not perform well. Just my 2 cents worth as a seasoned newbie who did not buy china junk. Prusa mini is made in Europe by a quality company that supports it's products and is only a little more expensive, keep saving and don't make the process 1000 times harder than it needs to be.
Good luck!

Please note, the machine I own is not a Prusa, it's a MakerGear, made in the USofA with some components made in China. I don't knock things made in china just knock offs made poorly in china. I am not Curious Aardvark, and I would not use PLA for any long term outdoor or summer time outdoor use, PETG, ABS or Nylon.. I personally hate PLA, ABS prints much nicer and is better in every way for anything that needs to be mechanical fictional. PETG is would be my first choice but PETG is not as ridged as ABS so it all depends on the application. You are welcome to your opinion as are we and I will never "get over" recommending a Superior product over inferior, it is of course "My opinion" I am very happy you like your Ender and defend it with pride! I sill would not suggest anyone buy one.

Not sure I agree - for the price of your 3D Printer I could purchase ten Hictop 3D Printers.

Attachment 13743

Hictop has a larger print area 220 x 270 x 200mm.

Have already proven I can print ABS one of the Hardest materials to 3D Print without any notable warping.
Others I know who have the same 3D Printer as I have printed with most materials without any major modifications.

Print sample in ABS a MPCNC Main Carriage plus Z Assembly

Attachment 13745

Test Sketch from my MPCNC made with these cheap Hictop 3D Printer.

Attachment 13746

My MPCNC Print Size 752mm x 500mm x 250mm

Attachment 13747

I paid for both of my Hictops with a group of 3D Printed models. An plan pay \for my MPCNC with its first set of 3D Prints/Carvings.
All parts printed in ABS with two cheap chinese 3D Printers parts all fit perfectly together creating a large 3D Printer / CNC / Laser system.
So sorry if I do not believe your two thousand dollar 3D Printer is any better than my cheap chinese 3D Printers.

Please note the post I was replying to was removed. I don't compare my machine to the ones talked about here as they are not in the same build class. Mine is the cast iron table saw in the school shop class the others are the aluminum contractors saw on the back of the contractors truck. They both work but the cast iron version is going to be more accurate and stay that way a lot longer and not need to be upgraded to work well or need part replacements for a very long time. The question was what to buy for $200 and the responses from me was save a bit more and get a Prusa mini and your learning curve will have the poor hardware issues removed from it. I don't really have anything else to add to this so will bow out of the conversation.

Case in point https://3dprintboard.com/showthread....s-with-ender-3
and another https://3dprintboard.com/showthread....-I-just-bought

I am sorry that you took offense, As I too took offense at your post.

It is not our fault that $200 is all we could afford. My Amateur Radio's and 3D Printers are my most valuable property.

yeah, sensible, reasoned argument is one thing. But just pure plain insults with no evidence to back anything up - that's another.
Life is too short to tolerate those kind of people.
He was removed as a spammer because I don't have a 'remove troll' button.