My first angry shot

After some help from Colin Farrer of MakerFarm, I made my first useful print today. They are the two gears from the Wades Extruder. They are not the ones supplied with the kit, but will do for backups.

A couple of things that I found to be important:

1. It is essential to set the Z-Axis endstop so the gap between the bottom of the extruder nozzle and the hot bed is between 0.1 and 0.3mm (4 thou - 10 thou")
2. The hot bed glass has to be squeaky clean and dust free before it is sprayed with Garnier-Fructus Maximum hold hairspray.

I've attached a couple of photos.

.Attachment 385Attachment 386

Looks Great!

Hey OME,
Are you printing with PLA or ABS?

If you're using PLA, you can get it to stick nearly 100% of the time by covering the glass in KAPTON tape.

I just get some 50mil tape and place strips all over the glass (avoid bubbles) and it sticks nearly every time.
Not sure if it works with ABS, never hurts to try.

I have a feeling we're getting separated by a common language. What exactly do you mean by "angry"?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Compro01

I have a feeling we're getting separated by a common language. What exactly do you mean by "angry"?

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Have you ever heard the phrase "a shot in anger"? An "angry shot" just means that one is making a serious attempt to succeed in some activity. In this case, printing something that was not a test piece was my first serious attempt to print a useful object. It was my first angry shot at conquering 3D printing.

I'm printing ABS. Colin said that they find using hairspray is a good means of getting things to stick. I noticed that this print started with a border about two layers thick surrounding the actual piece. This made have helped contain the heat at the edges of the actual piece.

Here are the first few lines of the G-code:
; generated by Slic3r 1.0.0RC1 on 2014-01-15 at 21:09:17


; layer_height = .2
; perimeters = 3
; top_solid_layers = 3
; bottom_solid_layers = 3
; fill_density = .2
; perimeter_speed = 75
; infill_speed = 100
; travel_speed = 100
; nozzle_diameter = 0.4
; filament_diameter = 3
; extrusion_multiplier = 1
; perimeters extrusion width = 0.40mm
; infill extrusion width = 0.67mm
; solid infill extrusion width = 0.67mm
; top infill extrusion width = 0.67mm
; support material extrusion width = 0.40mm
; first layer extrusion width = 0.80mm


G21 ; set units to millimeters
M107
M190 S115 ; wait for bed temperature to be reached
M104 S225 ; set temperature
G28 ; home all axes
G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle
M109 S225 ; wait for temperature to be reached
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
G92 E0
M82 ; use absolute distances for extrusion

Old Man Emu

I print on Kapton Tape with an ABS Slurry wipe for ABS with 99% Perfect stick. HBP is 100 degrees

I Print PLA onto Blue Painter's Tape (3M) HBP at 60 degrees

Quote:

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Originally Posted by old man emu

After some help from Colin Farrer of MakerFarm, I made my first useful print today. They are the two gears from the Wades Extruder. They are not the ones supplied with the kit, but will do for backups.

A couple of things that I found to be important:

1. It is essential to set the Z-Axis endstop so the gap between the bottom of the extruder nozzle and the hot bed is between 0.1 and 0.3mm (4 thou - 10 thou")
2. The hot bed glass has to be squeaky clean and dust free before it is sprayed with Garnier-Fructus Maximum hold hairspray.

I've attached a couple of photos.

.Attachment 385Attachment 386

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Not too shabby mate, I most definitely would as King said, get some kaptop tape. I dont spray or use anything on my hotbed other than kapton tape, and if something doesnt stick I simply raise the hotbed temperature a little until it does, or lower it depending on how it is curling.

If you get curled edges from the very beginning of your print, like within the first 10-20 layers, your bed is generally too hot, and if you are getting corner lift after a long time (or after say, a certain height) then the bed is too cold.

I think my hotbed needs a chill pill. Too hot. I'll drop down to 100C.

OME

100C didn't work. Back to 110C. but see my post in the Tips'n'Tricks thread. I've just sliced a test object and included a raft to see if that fixes things.

OME