Don't hate me - Buying 1st Printer

Hello, I know this gets asked a million times. I would like to get into 3D Printing... I have no idea what to get. I've been searching online "What printer is right for me" and such and I am getting options but would like some expert feedback / advice. The printer I'm looking at is the "Original Prusa i3 MK3".. that was at the top of one of the lists. I seem to be okay with this one but I'm concerned about print height. I guess you can print half and glue them together. I kinda like the idea of buying the upgrade to load the multiple colors of filament. I don't know anything at this moment though. I have a few weeks before I will buy anything so I'm just looking to get some units and start my research. One main question I see alot, "What are you going to be printing" and the answer to that is I have no idea... I simply think this could be cool and alot of fun. I could see myself going around finding random files and just making random things.. I kinda like the idea of replica guns, small scale and actual 1:1 handpews. So maybe I'm looking for something thats good with detail. I'd like my price to be same or less then the Prusa unless its very close to same price with noticeable differences. If their is a cheaper printer that has similar features for lower price with same detail ofc Ill go for that its just this is the first printer I've really started looking at. Sorry if this is confusing or all over the place. Ask away if you have questions for me.

You are the first person to come here and ask about a printer that is really the best you can buy for the money. You have a ton of stuff to lean, don't worry about colors.. get the printer and really lean the prusa slicer software, then pick a CAD program and learn how to model your own thing. If you buy cheap you will have another can of worms to deal with, get the Prusa. I was in the same boat as you in 2016 and waited and saved and I watched what was best, got a printer on the same level as the MK3 in 2018 and have been very happy.. Had no idea what I would use it for.. if you are a hobbyist you will find uses.. if you are a handy man DIY type, you will find uses.. I have not had much need for a larger build volume, the bigger the part the more plastic it takes and the longer it takes to print.. as in days.. and then it is just plastic.. so unless you are making bobbles and vases.. not a lot of use for that.. Right this second I am printing Bias Tape Jigs for making straps for cloth masks... Good luck and you get what you pay for when buying a machine that needs to be accurately repeatable!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by airscapes

You are the first person to come here and ask about a printer that is really the best you can buy for the money. You have a ton of stuff to lean, don't worry about colors.. get the printer and really lean the prusa slicer software, then pick a CAD program and learn how to model your own thing. If you buy cheap you will have another can of worms to deal with, get the Prusa. I was in the same boat as you in 2016 and waited and saved and I watched what was best, got a printer on the same level as the MK3 in 2018 and have been very happy.. Had no idea what I would use it for.. if you are a hobbyist you will find uses.. if you are a handy man DIY type, you will find uses.. I have not had much need for a larger build volume, the bigger the part the more plastic it takes and the longer it takes to print.. as in days.. and then it is just plastic.. so unless you are making bobbles and vases.. not a lot of use for that.. Right this second I am printing Bias Tape Jigs for making straps for cloth masks... Good luck and you get what you pay for when buying a machine that needs to be accurately repeatable!

---

This is reassuring. I also don't think I will need anything bigger. Could you tell me if different units actually make a noticable difference in detail? Some of the files I've been looking around for fun at are 1/4 scale replica guns. They are decently small and I'm unsure if "Printer A" would do better then "Printer B" with detail. Do you have a suggested program for making my own files? Is it possible to hop on in now without a printer and see play around so I can get the hang of it or is that pointless without a printer to test my files on.

Thank you for your response!

Detail is determined by the size of the nozzle and FFF printing is not injection molding.. I printed a lot of 23mm DD models for a coworker when I got my printer using a .25mm nozzle. 3D printing is not like desktop publishing it is some science and some art and takes a lot of time to get good at all the parts. I believe you will have no issue making the types of models you are talking about. Just remember there is always post processing work needed.. in fact google post processing 3D printed parts.. it will help you temper you expectations. Yes you can start researching a CAD program and start modeling without a printer, it is a completely different skill set and or hobby in itself. Most of the photos of the D&D stuff are on another PC but I may have one I can attache to give you an idea of the detail. This link will take you to a chess set I recently finished.. game pieces, board bottome (black part) and all the tiles were 3D printed, box is wood scraps https://misc.airscapesart.com/chessset/index.html

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by airscapes

Detail is determined by the size of the nozzle and FFF printing is not injection molding.. I printed a lot of 23mm DD models for a coworker when I got my printer using a .25mm nozzle. 3D printing is not like desktop publishing it is some science and some art and takes a lot of time to get good at all the parts. I believe you will have no issue making the types of models you are talking about. Just remember there is always post processing work needed.. in fact google post processing 3D printed parts.. it will help you temper you expectations. Yes you can start researching a CAD program and start modeling without a printer, it is a completely different skill set and or hobby in itself. Most of the photos of the D&D stuff are on another PC but I may have one I can attache to give you an idea of the detail. This link will take you to a chess set I recently finished.. game pieces, board bottome (black part) and all the tiles were 3D printed, box is wood scraps https://misc.airscapesart.com/chessset/index.html

---

Wow that looks fantastic! For my models I will most likely pull from websites. I will obviously mess around and try to make things maybe like a cube or something very basic and try to figure out how it all works. How did the DD characters turn out? Good detail?

The attached image in my previous post of the lizard folks were some of the D&D models

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by airscapes

The attached image in my previous post of the lizard folks were some of the D&D models

---

Yeah thats my bad I saw the attachment but my dad called so I couldn't edit haha.

So looks like Ill start diving into that Prusa, and some kind of program to make my own files!

What about the CR-10S Pro?

for a beginner looking for quality over fuss ? A big i3 with very definite issues - not a good idea.

The prusa mini might be a good idea though - much cheaper than the mk3 and actually more advanced electronics. Well so josef prusa says :-)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by curious aardvark

for a beginner looking for quality over fuss ? A big i3 with very definite issues - not a good idea.

The prusa mini might be a good idea though - much cheaper than the mk3 and actually more advanced electronics. Well so josef prusa says :-)

---

Hey, I was unaware of said ssues, what issues are you referring to? Seems odd that prusa would continue to make new models and leave outstanding issues with something that has been around for a long time? Is it really an issue or just a learning curve? Some would say that setting starting height and yearly bed leveling of my M2 was an issue but it is just part of the learning curve. I was just so excited to see someone looking at a NON entry level pile of junk :-)

well there are differences between 3d printing issues and 3d PRINTER issues.
everyone has the former, it's mainly a matter of experience and lateral thinking - but with a good machine you don't have to have the latter.

I don't think I've had many 3d printer issues. Certainly had none with my he3d k200 delta and replicator clones are pretty much bombproof.
The ctc i3, yeah - but you expect that when you deliberately buy the cheapest machine on the market
The monoprice mini delta, well all my issues with that may have been of my own making.
Had a rejigger couple days ago and put the extruder back to factory spec- so we'll see if it stopd jamming. Kind of weird as normally a narrower tube insert improve4s things.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by curious aardvark

well there are differences between 3d printing issues and 3d PRINTER issues.
everyone has the former, it's mainly a matter of experience and lateral thinking - but with a good machine you don't have to have the latter.

I don't think I've had many 3d printer issues. Certainly had none with my he3d k200 delta and replicator clones are pretty much bombproof.
The ctc i3, yeah - but you expect that when you deliberately buy the cheapest machine on the market
The monoprice mini delta, well all my issues with that may have been of my own making.
Had a rejigger couple days ago and put the extruder back to factory spec- so we'll see if it stopd jamming. Kind of weird as normally a narrower tube insert improve4s things.

---

I am still confused, I read you post to say there are issues with the Prusa Mk3. If so, what are they?

nope you missed a post :-)
The creality has printer issues.

nope you missed a post :-)
The creality has printer issues.
The prusa mk3 definitely doesn't count as a large i3.

Sorry if I confused the OP! I see what I missed.. It's hell gettin old, blind and senile!

I also thought he was talking about the mk3...

I thought I posted a response but I don't see it..

I will look into the mini after work but I do think I'll most likely just get the non mini version. It is alot cheaper tho so if I don't find enough cons I may side with the mini.

The only issue i know of with the mk3 - and this was back in spetember, so may no longer be a 'thing' - is the head collision setting doesn't always work.

I know this as I tried it at the tct show in september and if they'd been allowed to hit me - the prusa booth staff would have tried :-)
There is a video of thomas sanladerer (I will spell his surname correctly one day, most likely by accident) intervieweing josef prusa. Josef grab the exctruder of a running mk3, Holds it still for a bit and lets go. The machine then resets, and continues on printing. Magic stuff !
But if the collision tech is switched off in the firmware, - because it doesn't work well - when you grab the head, it just buggers the print up and people get annoyed at you ;-)

I suspect I was not the first person to do it - which would explain the sheer hostility from the booth staff lol

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Boundless

I also thought he was talking about the mk3...

I thought I posted a response but I don't see it..

I will look into the mini after work but I do think I'll most likely just get the non mini version. It is alot cheaper tho so if I don't find enough cons I may side with the mini.

---

The mini looks really nice for the money but has a few months of back order wait. I am actually considering buying one to try but it has no USB interface and I would want to use Octoprint with it rather than the SD card and I print a lot of ABS and the mini heated bed maxes out at 100C which is a tad too low. Either one is a quality machine but there is a track record for the mk3 vs the new release of the mini.. The mini is probably more plug an play but does have some limits do to the fact it is to compete with the cheap china clones.

I'm buying a Ender 3 right now due to my uncle having one and liking it alot.

I'm doing it for two reasons. Its cheap AF lol. And this gives me a great thing to practice with. I am still buying the Prusa mk3s in under a month so this Ender 3 is honestly almost pointless but I'm doing it anyway. I was gonna do the pro but by the time it can ship I'll probably have ordered the Prusa already then the Ender would be very very pointless.

ideal build plate temp for abs is around 85c - that said, unless you're using a heated enclosure - why bother with abs ?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by curious aardvark

ideal build plate temp for abs is around 85c - that said, unless you're using a heated enclosure - why bother with abs ?

---

I know you are not a fan of ABS.. But where are you getting that 85C as idea? All the ABS I have ever purchased says build plate 110C. I have never bothered to try a lower temp as 110C is what is recommended. Takes forever to heat up but no print failures...

one of the old members (marm maybe?) did a lot of abs printing and 85c was what he always recommended.
I think the basic idea is that you need to be just over the glass point of the material to avoid the bottom couple of layers cooling sufficiently to shrink, but not hot enough to make it so soft that you will get material slumpage. Which will have aripple effect throughout the entire print.

It's why I generally print pla on a 65c bed.
Just seems to stick better.

But basically 85c seems to be the best for abs.
So any machine with a 100c print bed will - technically - print abs.
But it is NOT a good 3d printer filament.

pla, pet-g and all the newer materials are ALL better.

Oh yeah here's the skinny on the mini:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s5wpoGe9wT0

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by curious aardvark

one of the old members (marm maybe?) did a lot of abs printing and 85c was what he always recommended.
I think the basic idea is that you need to be just over the glass point of the material to avoid the bottom couple of layers cooling sufficiently to shrink, but not hot enough to make it so soft that you will get material slumpage. Which will have aripple effect throughout the entire print.

---

Interesting, I will give it a try and see, should would be faster than waiting for 110C to be reached!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by curious aardvark

for a beginner looking for quality over fuss ? A big i3 with very definite issues - not a good idea.

---

CA I think you were referring to the CR-10S Pro.What are these issues?I heard the He3D Sky (similar build) has wobble issues but haven't heard that about the Creality. So we're all curious to learn...

it's creality - so no support, potentially sub-standard parts and just generally lots little issues that people seem to have with them.

There is a difference between a first time buyer wgho does not have existing cnc or mechanical skills and someone buying a second 3d printer or who is au-fait and happy to tinker with mechanical and electronic processes.

So when recommending a first printer to someone who doesn't want to build one from scratch and thinks the manufacturer might help them if they have a problem.
Certain brands and machines should definitely be avoided.

yes creality are huge and make an awful lot of machines.
Some actually work quite well.
A lot don't and even with their bigger I3's that now have dual z-axis motors, they STILL use a bowden tube.
That will give you more issues than an i3 with a direct drive extruder.
The single central rail with sideways wheels as the only support for a large and heavy print bed, will potentially give you more issues than side support rails with bearings.

All these are things I try and take into account when recommending a machine as hassle free as I can find.
Until creality stop making engineeringly dodgy machines - I can't in all conscience recommend them.

I am just about to buy an Ender 3. I am new to the 3D Printing topic and I would love to have some help by choosing an Ender for me.I thought about buying the Ender 3 Pro because I have seen that there is not a big price difference anymore. But then I stumbled upon a deal that includes the Ender 3 X, with a Glass Plate Platform and the V1.1.5 Super Silent mainboard.Now I don't know if I should get the 3X or the Pro Version.Could someone please help me out? Thanks a lot in advance.To the prices:- Ender 3 is 209 USD- Ender 3X withe a Glass Plate and three extra Nozzles is 219 USD- Ender 3 X, with the Glass Plate Platform and the V1.1.5 Super Silent mainboard for 229 USD- Ender 3 Pro for 239 USD

DO NOT BUY AN ENDER 3

It is a fundamentally flawed design.

If you want a decent I3 - by which I mean with the riginal Prusa design features that creality dispensed with.
Then a monoprice maker select plus (a rebadged wanhao i3 plus) Is about as close as you get without going direct to prusa.

The other one worth looking at would be one of these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Geeetech-Pr....c100009.m1982
It's also an original prusa i3 design.
Looking at it they've actually done most of the mods I had to do to my 2019 model.

It will need a lot less tinjering than an ender, and will print considerably faster and with better quality.
Oh and it's less than $150 :-)