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Printed on Ender 5 Pro, with PLA at 200 degrees. Retraction at 5mm, layer-heigh 2.8.The print has a flat base of 5mm, and then the two sides go up for about 25cm, slanting backwards. Printed standing on its base.The print is overall ok, but 2 flaws:- The top-layer of the base has some random potmarks in it (There are 6 proper holes, designed to be there)- The first couple of centimeters of the sides don't have solid walls. But above that, they are suddenly fine.
well it's clearlt under extrusion.
Could be many things, but with a longish bowden tube, it might simply be the extruder is struggling to push the filament through. At a certain height the angle of the tube changes and it suddenly starts getting through a lot easier.
Could have also been a dodgy patch of filament - but my money is on it just not beiung able to push enough filament through the tube - did you hear any 'clicking' during the print ?
Depending on what type extruder it is - sometimes you can tighten them up so they push through any tight spots.
Regardless of this print - converting the machine to a direct drive extruder would be the first thing I'd do.
Hell I'd have dne it during the construction.
There is no logical reason for the ender 5 to use a bowden extruder other than laziness on creality's part.
Thanks! I retried the print with just adjusting my bowden tube, giving it a few strips close to the extruder to make it straight(er), and next one came out pretty perfect.Quote:
Originally Posted by curious aardvark
On the topic of direct drive, anything specific you'd recommend for the Ender 5 Pro?
Its hard to say what is wrong but I'm thinking about it.
http://forum.compass-project.org/profile.jspa?editMode=true&userID=41260
http://forum.compass-project.org/profile.jspa?userID=41261
Depends on your budget really. Cheapest solution would be to take the existing extruder and use it. That's a pretty ugly and heavy solution though.Quote:
Originally Posted by theissonder
I prefer getting a small pancake motor, a geared extruder (like a BMG or Titan), and a hotend that is designed to match up with that extruder. That can get pricey fast though.
With regard to the bowden, the issue you found in your print can occur because the bowden isn't seated properly at one end (as you may have found with the adjustment). What often happens is that a bit of wear occurs and the bowden can move back and forth. This stuffs up your retraction distance, and you'll often get a lag when starting extrusion. First thing I'd check if this sort of problem happens again is that the bowden is firmly seated at both ends, with no gap between the bowden and the hotend, and no movement at either connector.
I'd just move the existing extruder on top of the hotend carriage.
You'll probably need to make your own adaptor.
Post some pics of the hotend carriage and the extruder setup.
Then we can see how easy or hard it would be to make an adaptor.
Failing that there are some nice and cheapish all in one extruder/hotend units around at the moment that could probably be fairly easily fitted.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/YOTINO-Asse...572128&sr=8-19
Not the lightweight one I was looking for - but bloody cheap !
Can't find the one I was looking for, I'll ask autowiz - he knows all the new stuff :-) (hell he's bought most of it lol)
Okay reasons a chaep full size nema 17 stepper based direct drive exrtruder is a good diea on an ender 5.
what it won't do.
1) it won't significantly speed things up, but then neither will it slow them down.
What it WILL do:
1) it will create a short and straight path from the extruder to the hotend. This removes the small - but unavoidable - inconstancies that are introduced in even the best optimised bowden tubes
2) it'll make using flexible filaments much easier.
3) it will shorten retraction distances and allow faster movements and shorter wipe distances, which in turn reduced blobbing and stringing.
In other words for about £20 and a bit of printing - it's definitely worth a shot :-)
This is a very common issue. You do not need to spend a dime to fix it, it happens all the time with any extruder if your settings are wrong, you do not need an upgraded hot end kit. Simply either increase the infill, decrease the flow of your last layer, decrease the temperature of the last layer by 5-10 degrees, increase cooling of last layer, decreasing speed of last layer by up to 50%, and disabling ironing. For more information and tech help, check out my blog.
Edit: It looks like the hole print is being printed too hot, try turning your temp down by 10 degrees.