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Hi
I am looking for recommendations on reasonably priced filament for my new Ender 5 Pro. I bought one from my local store and I get disappointing results every single time. With the filament that came with the printer I get very good results.
The filament that I have is rated for 190-215 with bed temperature of 40. Prints always get messed up and pop off the plate. Tried lower temperature, high temperature, nothing works.
Thanks
I've been purchasing my filament from MatterHackers for a few years and have had consistently good results with the economy category. I'm not sure why I'd want to buy the Pro stuff, as the non-Pro pricing is great and the shipping in the USA is free.
If you buy MH filament and get poor results, consider that parameters usually are different from one brand to the next. Your locally purchased stuff may require these adjustments, but your description of the failure is too vague to determine an answer.
I am not in the US so I need something that is available on Amazon.My current filament starts stringing as soon as the printer moves. The print doesn't stick to the bed (tried different temperatures starting with the 40 deg printed on the box). I am only able to print a perfect raft or brim (after slowing the speed), then once it goes to the actual print itself after the first layer the print will pop off the plate. Tried glue even though my printer is brand new and shouldn't need, but that didn't help. Different temperature will make the edges start coming off and eventually the whole thing becomes loose. I don't have this issue with the filament that came with it.
best bed temp for pla is 65c.
How fast are you printing ?
How fast are you printing the first layer ?
And just because it's a new printer does not mean you don't need some kind of print bed glue.
Creality are not known for quality. Whatever bed coating they've used will be the absolute cheapest they could find.
So don't expect loaves and fishes miracles when all you have is 2 sardines and a crispbread to feed an angry crowd of looters (sorry 'protestors') :-)
Okjay so numbers
Print the first layer SLOW - no slower than that.
I usually go for 5 or 10mm/s
Yes on some prints the first layter can account for 50% of the overall print time. But I almost never get failed prints - so you pays your money and makes your choice.
Most pla should work fairly well.
The other thing to look at is z-gap and bed levelling.
Not sure if the 5 has some kind of autolevelling or not.
But that's not of much use if you haven't got it properly levelled manually first anyway.
magnetic bed should be fine, I have the same on my Ender 3 Pro with no issues. Just need to clean it now and then with soap and water, then with ipa
as far as filaments, I have had good luck with Creality, Esun, Hatchbox, and Prusament. Botfeeder did not work for me on the Ender, but works so so on my Sidewinder. Keep in mind to do a temp tower as different filaments can need different temps, even the same colour from the same brand can vary between rolls. As far as bed temp, 60 works well for me for PLA. Hotend, that's what the temp tower is for, but I usually wind up between 200 and 215 for PLA.
I haven't had to slow down from the default Cura settings, but as Aardvark says, slowing down will always improve a print. Some people have even had improvement by trying Prusaslicer instead of Cura. Personally I use Prasaslicer for my Prusa, but Cura for the other 3 brands I have.
And yes, as Aardvark suggests, double check your bed level. That has to be done less frequently with ABL, but still needs to be done now and then.
My current filament starts stringing as soon as the printer moves. The print doesn't stick to the bed (tried different temperatures starting with the 40 deg printed on the box). I am only able to print a perfect raft or brim (after slowing the speed), then once it goes to the actual print itself after the first layer the print will pop off the plate. PrepaidCardStatus
Some of the posts remind me of a problem I'm having with a printer on which I've updated/upgraded the firmware. The first layer of your print should be examined for proper "squash" and I don't mean the vegetable (fruit?) in this context. You want to have a cross section of the filament to be more horizontal than circular. If you're getting anything close to circular, the first layer nozzle setting is far too high. Curious Aardvark references z-gap and that's the key aspect of your problem, I'll wager.
40c bed temp is too cold.
for pla - 65c is optimal.
85c for abs
and 100-110c for pet-g
It's essentially the glass point of the material.
ie: that temp where it's still everso slightly flexible and hasn't cooled enough to shrink.
You need it hard - if it's too soft it'll collapse/squish and ruin subsequent layers.
If it's stringing excessively then you're printing too cool and - probably - your retraction settings are wrong.
I find that pla printss best betwen 200-215c - depending on speed, layer thickness and cooling duct efficiency.
Pet-g, hell I've seen everything from 220c on up to 255c - seems to depend entirely on who made it and who's using it. So trial and error there.
Abs - again I've seen everything from 220c on up to 260c. And again seems to depend on make, colour and whether or not you have a heated enclosure. The better the heated enclosure the higher you can get away with printing it. And the better your layer adhesion will be.