HICTOP DIY Prusa I3 - Finished assembling but auto home does nothing

Hi All,

Just bought this :
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nice printer, I plug it in for the first time and nothing happens. ...
I plug the USB into the PC and the LCD comes on, but AUTO HOME does nothing.

I try moving axes manually through LCD Menu, nothing.

I load a model into CURA, send the print, the printer goes into "Bed Heating" mode but nothing happens.

It's really like there is power to LCD screen but nothing else.
Fans arent on, the motors have not made a sound, ever.

I have double checked my wiring, it's all too simple to screw up.

This is my first 3dPrinter, I dont know how I am supposed to troubleshoot this.

https://i.imgur.com/quKfLVH.jpg

Have you tried looking here - > https://www.facebook.com/hic3dprinter ? There are some issues noted and a support contact.

EDIT: any documentation on the SD card? Is it installed?

Hello;
You should check voltages and make sure that the 12 Volt Supply is supplying 12volts.
Then we need to make sure that the 12 volts is correctly connected to the controller card.

Do you have a multimeter?
"Never mind I see you do in the photo"

I Have two Hictop 3D Printers, and We can Get you up and running.

Thanks ! I really appreciate the help.

ok so I assuming that a USB 5V is not enough to heat stuff.
So I need to troubleshoot the issue from the POWER SUPPLY.

I dont see any voltage coming out of the PSU to the main board....
And now I just opened up the PSU to see a blown fuse:

First, is this a blown fuse? And if so, can I replace? or do I just purchase a new PSU?
Also, could I have caused the fuse to break? I put it on 110v from 220v prior to plugging it.
https://i.imgur.com/jrFhuUG.jpg

I am worried that if its not just a faulty PSU, the fuse will blow when I buy a new one.

What SD Card? it didnt come with one.

Well, a lot of printers come with SD cards with documentation, also to use standalone. My assumption, and you know what they say about assume.

So yes, that is a fuse. It does look blown to me. Take your multimeter and set to resistance (ohms). If it reads 0, it is ok, OL is is open ( OverLoad or OuttaLuck, your choice ;-) )

What level of experience do you have with electronics. Reason I ask, is the level of detail we need to go into to help.

Anyway, depending on you soldering skills, you can replace it. For debug, do you have any automotive type / marine type fuse holders with pigtails, or we can make one with crimp connectors to a automotive fuse (for debug purposes only )
Can you read the fuse size on it? - EDIT: its marked right there t6.3A/250

Looking at the Power Supply image the Fuse is blown.
Beside the fuse is a Black Thermal resister I may also be bad.

Do you know how to solder.

Attachment 11136

Update again... I not the fuse, I just tested it with the multimeter. full 120v going through it.

So now I am back to square one. how to I figure out why no power is going through.

Full view of PSU, for what its worth

https://i.imgur.com/Kq6aVkd.jpg

With Power disconnected.
Measure resistance across RT1 (Thermal Fuse ) or (Thermal Resistor) is should have very low resistance.
and Please do the Same for the Fuse. Did you remember to switch SW1 the 220/120 volt switch to 120volt.

The reason I ask is fuses do not normally have a black ring around the glass, unless the fuse is blown.

I dont have much experience in electronics. I am learning.
I have a soldering kit.

I found this, looks like its the right fuse.
https://www.amazon.com/T6-3AL250V-T6.../dp/B008QYY03K

I dont mind soldering to try to fix the issue.
But getting a 8$ fuse to fix a 35$ PSU...

Might be worth buying new PSU...

Might be but look at all the fun you will miss out on. Plus learning how to solder.
Before you spend the money as a temp test you can jump the fuse to see if the supply still works.
I would disconnect it from the Controller first, just in case.

I would use this fuse. and buy the way Fuses should be way less than $8 each
https://www.ebay.com/p/2pcs-6-3a-Cer...d=151254574054


You could get the fuse at any appliance repair shop

Yeah, just did resistance test and a continuity test and nothing registers.
So yeah. fuse is in fact blown

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ddoiron

Yeah, just did resistance test and a continuity test and nothing registers.
So yeah. fuse is in fact blown

---

When you need more help Just POST. Have questions POST.

My first supply died, I jumped RT1 it was bad and replaced the Fuse. Only because I believe that having both was redundant, going on 1 year without RT1.

I also soldered wires onto a standard 7A fuse. But care must be taken not to heat the fuse too much or it can die.
Sand the ends of the fuse lightly tin the ends of the fuse tack a bare wire on both sides test too see if still good, solder into circuit.