Can a 3d printer make this part?

hi,

Please look at the photo, there are two plastic pulleys from a 45 year old cassette deck.

Can a 3d printer make those pulleys?

Thanks !

yes, easily :-)

Thank you, Would the quality be good? Also, can you recommend a scanner (affordable) to scan parts like these?

This is the printer I just got, have not even unboxed it yet; just looking for your recommendation for a scanner

forget a scanner - learn to use digital calipers and openscad: http://www.openscad.org/

the only low budget scanners currently worth their salt are the scan-in-a-box: https://www.scaninabox.com/
and the einscan scanner: https://www.einscan.com/

But you will find that not only is it much quicker to measure and model a part from scratch, it's also a LOT more accurate.
Unless you've got $10,000 to spare - scanners just aren't as good as learning how to design parts from scratch. And it's easier than you think.

forget a scanner - learn to use digital calipers and openscad: http://www.openscad.org/

the only low budget scanners currently worth their salt are the scan-in-a-box: https://www.scaninabox.com/
and the einscan scanner: https://www.einscan.com/
Yes that is low budget for scanners :-)

But you will find that not only is it much quicker to measure and model a part from scratch, it's also a LOT more accurate.
Unless you've got $10,000 to spare - scanners just aren't as good as learning how to design parts from scratch. And it's easier than you think.

Wow!

Are you saying I can make those pulleys without a scanner if I master the methods you mentioned?

Does a digital caliper take into account slight curves and rounded corners too?

As a newbie we would be talking a long time?

Curious Aardvark has the right idea. The amount of time involved to learn a scanning program and hardware would enable you to become a genius in so many different CAD programs. Like CA, I endorse the use of OpenSCAD, especially for something as straightforward as the pulleys you desire to duplicate.

Additionally, you'll find good support here and on the OpenSCAD forum for your project. Make a couple attempts and post your results if you don't get what you seek.

Consider especially to use parametric assignments for your build. That is, don't use:

Code:

---

cylinder(h = 10, d = 20);

---

Use instead:

Code:

---

center_boss_h = 10:
pulley_groove_d = 20;

cylinder(h = center_boss_h, d = pulley_groove_d);

---

The above method will allow you to make one change in the assignments and have the effects travel through your model construction.

That looks like programming; is using a 3d scanner easier in that respect?

Yeah, it does look like programming, but it's far easier than it looks. Using a 3D scanner means a good bit more work. I've had experience with three different versions of 3D scanners and the ones that might give you the parameters you need for a duplicate part are complex and in some cases, very finicky or very touchy in getting good results.

If you're not comfortable with a text based model creator, you may want to investigate your options with a GUI type of program. For something resembling parametric modeling, OnShape (free for hobbyists) is an easy learn. More challenging and of course, more capable would be Fusion 360 (free for hobbyists). I've had reasonable experience with both and OnShape is by far easier to learn for your objective.

Less useful for your model is a free, web-based GUI CAD program called TinkerCad. If you are careful to monitor the dimensions of the parts placement, you may get away with creating your somewhat-simple model in TinkerCad.

Stay away from SketchUp, as it is known to create non-printable models. There are work-arounds, plug-ins and perhaps some built-in 3D model utilities for SketchUp, but why go in that direction when the above programs are superior for your purpose.

Thank you for that wonderful advice Fred

Just curious, asides from a pulley with the right skill set and software can metal parts that make up a older audio cassette deck be replicated too?

Look above Fred I also put a link to the 3d printer i bought, is it recommended?

I'm not familiar with the printer you've linked, but it looks impressive for the cost. Quite a large print bed and the frame appears to be a well designed structure. You want a stiff frame and if that one is all-metal, it's a good start. The channel construction that appears in the image provides better rigidity than flat panels of acrylic.

If you develop the necessary skills to recreate a metal part, you can have it printed by an online 3D printing service. A recently viewed video showed me the results of someone's design which was printed in stainless steel, a part for handling sensitive drilling on a machinist's lathe. Some post-processing was required, but it was minimal, involving machining surfaces to bring the part into tolerance.

If your ultimate goal is to duplicate such parts, aim for the "tougher" programs such as Fusion 360 and stay clear of TinkerCad. I'm not sure how well OnShape fits into your objective, but I'm confident that Fusion 360 will do everything you require. Another advantage of that program is a comprehensive set of videos on the YouTube as well as forum support at the web site and other locations.

For your linked printer, consider to access your preferred search engine, using the printer name followed by "review" or even check YouTube for related videos. You'll probably get better insight from the reviewers with the higher subscriber counts, but it's a hit-and-miss proposition, general speaking, to know how qualified is a particular reviewer.

Thank you Fred for the valuable insight
I can only imagine what we will be 3d printing 10 years from now.

I remember starting with a panasonic dot matrix monochrome printer thrilled to print out a grainy photo only to have studio type prints available in a home printer a decade later.

one thing to bear in mind - metal printing is still extremely expensive.
getting a metal part made would most likely cost more than the machine is worth.
a decent engineering firm would most likely make a part cheaper, through conventional methods.

You might be able to replace some of the metal parts with plastic printed parts. If they're just structural, that could work quite well.

I don't think of openscad as programming, more telling the computer what shapes to put where. What shapes to take away from other shapes, etc.
If you can visualise what you want to make and break it down into basic shapes, then openscad makes it really easy to produce models.

With any CAD tool that does revolve operations, maybe some POM filament, you will have made that in under 30 minutes.

As a follow up I have to ask this.I have a cassette lid from my stereo, not sure if it is plastic or acrylic but is it at all possible to 3d print clear see thru complete with the lock tabs seen in one of these photos?I doubt this is possible but a smoked glass look cannot be 3d printed can itIf a 3d printer can do these things I will immerse myself in this technology.Thnaks so much for answering this newbie's questions!

I get so many email messages from various 3d printing forums, I can't recall where I saw this latest one, but it's about transparent ABS plastic, just about what you seek. ABS can be a little finicky to print, but I've had pretty good luck with it in the past. I've not tried ABS clear, though. There are other plastic formulations that are transparent. I think you can get PETG in clear too, which is easier to print than ABS if you get the temperatures correct. You will almost certainly see layer lines. The locking tabs will be a weak location and require support when printing. The part has to be printed tabs-up and the vertical segments will be small and layered horizontally, the least strong configuration possible.

I think it can be printed, but won't be very strong or durable if it's going to be subjected to repeated lock/unlock cycles.

Attachment 12585

These lenses were made with a desktop SLA machine, polished and resin dipped. I'd say an above 90% transparency is possible.For FFF printers try HDglass, printed at low layer thickness with a thin epoxy coat. With a smooth surface things will become more transparent.

Fred and Ralph, Thank You !

basically it's possible, not necessarily to the same level of clarity, but definitely possible.
And it would be just as strong.
I actually find that clear pla is tougher than coloured pla.
I often use it for that little bit of extra strength.
Ralph is right, to get good clarity from fdm you'd need to paint it with a resin that fills in the gaps and shape fdm naturally produces.

Clear pla works well, as does clear pet-g. and hdglass (pet-g).

With a resin printer it's possible to print useable spectacle lenses.

It's swings and roundabouts. resin machines do some things fdm machines can't and vice versa.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QkfQri2B0PY

Thank you so much for the thorough explanation !