question about adhesive

Hi,I'm very new to 3d printing, I just recently got the 3d printer (Ender 3 pro) and got the settings roughly where I want themmy build plate was not flat, there was a very slight dip in he middle, enough to make it impossible to level it with the knobs without either nothing sticking in the middle or scratching the plate at the edges. so, I removed the magnetic build plate and put a creality carbon glass build plate there instead, I don't know what the carbon part means, but it has a surface that supposedly makes stuff stick when it's heated and lets go really easily when bed cools down.my builds seem to let go mid print when the model contracts, so the sticking isn't strong enough. is it safe to use adhesive even if the glass plate has this structure? or will the structure on the surface be ruined by the adhesive?

That is a question for creality but if what they sold you is not working then add some glue stick and see what happens. Most adhesion issues are caused by incorrect Z offset (distance between nozzle and plate. Inexpensive printers the the Creality are not built to maintain the exacting tolerance need so most folks make the first layer squished so the plastic sticks better or they add adhesive which reduces the space between the plat an nozzle allowing for better adhesion. If you happen to be printing with ABS, then there is also the fact that your printer needs to be in a heated enclosure to use ABS or it will warp and pop off mid print..
Good luck

the other thing to try first is to slow your first layer speed down.
10mm/s is what I usually aim for, but for anything with small parts or very little surface on the plate, I will go down as slow as 5mm/s.

With abs - if it's not a heated enclosure then use a raft. Yes the bottom of the print looks awful, and if you get the settings wrong it will sometimes just not be removeable - but abs prints on rafts tend to work quite well.
Basically, How I printed everything for the first 6 months or so i had a printer.
Then I discovered everybody had lied to me about pla - and I haven't touched abs since :-)

You should NEVER need a raft with pla.

As far as adhesive of special build services - yeah, not usually an issue.
I occasionally stick a thin layer of dimafix on my printbite - seesm to rejuvenate it for 4 or 5 months or so. Well it is 3 years old now :-)

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Originally Posted by curious aardvark

the other thing to try first is to slow your first layer speed down.
10mm/s is what I usually aim for, but for anything with small parts or very little surface on the plate, I will go down as slow as 5mm/s.

With abs - if it's not a heated enclosure then use a raft. Yes the bottom of the print looks awful, and if you get the settings wrong it will sometimes just not be removeable - but abs prints on rafts tend to work quite well.
Basically, How I printed everything for the first 6 months or so i had a printer.
Then I discovered everybody had lied to me about pla - and I haven't touched abs since :-)

You should NEVER need a raft with pla.

As far as adhesive of special build services - yeah, not usually an issue.
I occasionally stick a thin layer of dimafix on my printbite - seesm to rejuvenate it for 4 or 5 months or so. Well it is 3 years old now :-)

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I don't have an enclosure or well ventilated spot for my printer, so ABS is a big no for me :)
I will try the slower first layer, thanks for the tip :)

also put the build plate temp at 65c.

will do, question: is the skirt included in the initial layer? thinking about build speed.

a skirt is usually the first layer only - though you can usually set it for as many layers as you like.
Though as it's just to increase the surface area and adhesion of the ffirst layer - having a skirt of more than one layer - doesn't really serve any useful purpose.