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I have to admit, I'm glad you've gone digital. To seems to remove issues with system sound and background noise that some poor sound card have... Just means you've had to put aside your idea of it being easier for developing (no pun) countries not being able to use their phones? Dam, those prints look mighty fine....
So, question. What's the potential resolution now you're working digitally, still working in 16bit?
EDIT: How come the random start position was used on the rocket? It had a seem which I thought you were trying avoid.
Also, is that an atmega chip I see, if so, arn't their PWM only 10bit? IE 1024 positions.
any close up images of that new board? also - will this be able to be driven by a chromebook?
Great questions guys
- chip is an STM32
- signal resolution( not measuring noise ) is 18 bit and we accomplished this by using more than 1 pwm pin per Chanel
- actual functional resolution... I have no clue but it looks like it might be so good its hard to measure,
- using random start point spreads that seam all over the print and makes for a print that dosent look glassy but has a ruff texture.
There is a way to never have a seam and have clear prints but we havent not implemented it yet... it would involve never stopping the mirrors or tuning the laser off but instead pwm the laser power to match the speed of the resin riseing ( it will be awsome! ) its in our work log but wont see development for at-least 3 months. I think someday you will be printing and all the seams will just disappear after a software update :)
- We still have hopes of sporting phones, android looks rather promising, were working on a ui that uses kivi which supports mobile.
- Digital will probably never work on chrome book, for that to work someone would have to re write the software in java and a web browser plug in.
it might be posible to hack some fun projects together with audio and chrome book.
Drat.... so even something like gcode sender won't work? I'm not really digging the idea of having to leave a full computer on running the printer.
I must apologize for using the words " never work in crome book "
That kind of language is actualy a bit imoral in my opinion, or at least not very helpfull.
Where there is a will there is a way is a better attitude!
gcodeSender looks a bit promising because it streems gcode.
some things that might need to be done....
- slicers typicaly output gcode containing instructions for where they want our laser dot to hit the resin, not for the deflection at which to position a mirror so that our laser dot will hit the resin. this is part of the translation work that the peachy printer software dose. So.... perhaps the peachy software could be modified to output deflection g codes and you could send that file with gcodeSender.
- if gcode sender works by just alwase keeping the serial buffer full, ( blocking mode) then the circuit could run a
modified firm ware that only reads serial data relevant to the number of drips it has counted.
essentially what this dose is make drops of water regulate the flow of data over the usb cable.
If you have the skills to make it work then we will gladly help.
That said you might also just prefer a different version of the circuit ( that is still in developemt )
that will have and SD card slot so you can put many prints( gcode files) on to your printer, and it will just need 5 volts for the duration of the print.
That 5 volts could come from your chrome book.
The version in the update cant do this because it is a supper basic version and so it has VERY little memory on board.
I can't wait to actually get to play with this :)
Please keep us up-to-date on how production and shipping are coming!
Hey Rylan, Great update!
I'm really a noob to 3D printing and since this is now finalized, can you please describe the workflow from creating / downloading an stl file to printing it?
Is it something like:
1. Create / download STL
2. Connect Peachy to PC by USB
2. Open STL in slicer / custom peachy software?
3. Print to peachy from above software?
Also after looking at the form1 forums it seems that their most common hardware issues have been laser diodes failing (creating a wide beam of light - resulting in partially cured resin all over the place), and cleaning mirrors, possibly just an issue due to them not wanting users to do this badly and damage the mirror. From what I've seen it should be easy to replace these parts on the peachy, but I'm wondering if there will be any special instructions for this, or will it just be a case of replacing the parts?
Welcome mrsullers
At peachy printer we have done alot of thinking about how to make it quick and easy to have a great first experience with our printer
At a 100 dollar price point your in good company being a newbe to 3d printing. Lots of our customers are!
Here are a couple of work flows you can do with peachy printer.
1 plug your printer in to a usb port
2 open peachy printer software
3 click on one of many costomizable prints packaged right in the software to start printing.
Of course you will want to make your own things from scratch to so in that case:
-use a 3d modleing software of your choice to make a modle and save it as an stl or download an stl.
- use a slicer of your choice to turn your object into layers and save it as gcode.
- open the gcode with peachy software to start printing.
As for the mirros they are very very delicate so cleaning them dosent work very well.
Instead we have made sure that the mirros only take about 1 minuit to replace, and only cost a dollar or two for a brand new set of mirrors.
Replacing your mirrors is very easy to do and there will be instructions for how to do that.
The same goses for replacing your laser, its as easy as screwing in a light bulb, because we have a laser socket. changeing your laser will take about 30 seconds.
and will cost ruffly 10 dollars. Altho we have not had any problems with burning them out recently, after switching to brand name Sony laser diodes.
This easy to replace thing is the case for all the parts in a peachy printer. nearly all the parts snap together sort of like Lego, and are rather easy to,
and because the hole printer costs 100 bucks there arnt any parts that are particularly expensive to replace.
That was a great update. I'm so impressed with your printer.
Hmm, I've got a model that other 3d printers can't handle. It's a case for a raspberry pi's camera with 2 servos. I've not been able to print it on any printer yet, so I'm curious if the peach can handle it.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:207403