Discussion: Clear filament pet-g versus pla

Not really on topic but I just burned through my first roll of Overture Clear PETG making flower pots and boxes using (at the other end of the size spectrum) a .75mm nozzle and man, printed really slow this stuff is nice for box making! Diameter did not fluctuate over the life of the spool, was vacuum sealed and really dry, printed nice at 230 but found it was clearest at 240 and about 20mmS with the big nozzle (bed 80). Ran it at 50mmS but was cloudy, probably could have bumped the temp but with a big nozzle you can't go too fast. Was not expecting the amazon filament to be all that great.. Any idea who actually makes it??

I'd say that's about the same transparency I get with clear pla - from my 0.5mm nozzle at 150mm/s 0.3mm layer 210c on alexa.
I'm currently designing (well alright 'copying') and making an insect catcher (bumble bees currently looking for homes and we've got great weather so doors and windows open) with cheap clear pla - off ebay, not a clue who made it.

I did contemplate using the k40 and some 2mm clear polysterene sheet - but it stinks worse than abs and I have no idea how to glue it together, without printing some hinge brackets. Plus, I like designing awkward stuff to print without supports.
Basic catcher is a hollow pyramid, figured if I printed it lying on a side I could have a sliding slot for the trapdoor with no need for any support or dodgy bridging.
Looking good so far.

When it's done I'll post a pic and we can compare transparency :-)

But I don't see what you're gaining by using pet-g for simple boxes ?
I mean apart from experience printing with pet-g - which i could do with, but lack the patience so to do ;-)

Well the original purchase was for the flower pots and to just try this brand.. boxes cam afterwards when the cat was playing with all the things on my desk.. I also don't like PLA:-( For boxes like this, I am sure PLA would be fine but not sure how well it would hold up at wall thickness of .8 or 1.6mm as that is what these are. I will have to try some PLA just to compare before I have to swap out the big nozzle.

the thinner pla is the more flexible it is.
I use 1mm - double width - walls quite a lot. never had any issues.

And my clear pla is not very clear as I just couldn't be bothered to print it slower lol
My test bug catcher worked at 150mm/s and 0.3mm layer, after a little filing.
So after modifying the model slightly for less filing - that's what I'm currently printing the clear pyramid at lol
Plus i really should have changed the wall thickness to 1mm rather than 2.
But somewhere I missed something on the calculations and when i change that, too many other things change and I can't be arsed to sort it out tonight :-)

As I really like making these I'm going to see about making a frame and inserting some laser cut 3mm perspex for total clarity.
Useful to see if the bug is in before you close the door, makes sure you don't trap any legs.

Can't find anything similiar on thingiverse so I'll probably publish the files.

After some tweaking I've ended up with the main catcher (pyramid) being a single walled structure - 0.5mm thick.
I honestly had no idea if it would work or not.

It's actually surprisingly strong.
I'm doing the second one alittle slower (down to 75mm/s - yes, for me, that's SLOW)
I'll see how the 75 goes and i might up the extrusion a little for the next one fewer gaps = more clarity.

So I printed the same box (3 layers on bottom .5mm layer) and vase mode sides .8mm thick, in PLA. I left the door of the enclosure open and the front of the box lifted a bit but is still usable. Did not happen with the lid as I closed the door for that job. The PLA (not clear, eSun pla+) is a bit stiffer than the petg as expected which is better for a box.. just have to make sure it is never put it too near anything too hot.

pla isn't as temperature sensitive as people think.

I made a mesh to cover the gobbler hole on out sink. It gets boiling water dumped over it fairly regularly.
You can see where some of the mesh pieces have deformed slightly.
But nothing to interfere with functionality and there's no danger of any part actually breaking.

ie: it won't suddenly melt at 70c. :-)

The insect catchers worked great. The one with two width walls is as transparent as the ones with 1 wall. But much stronger.

The idea is they are clear enough to see where the insect is so you don't trap it's legs when you close the door.

And i engraved the wooden handles with my laser :-)

Oh and hows this for gauging how much filament was left on the reel:
Attachment 14362

All three parts weigh about 34 gms. Looked at reel and thought - yep that's about right, and it was lol

So here's a finished catcher.
Attachment 14368


Attachment 14369

Then you just carry it outside, and turn to open door and release insect :-)

Attachment 14370

Attachment 14371

The handles were made from a piece of scrap pine I cut to about 9mm square on the bandsaw and sanded the smooth on the disc sander.
The connectors are made with 1mm walls of flexible pla.

So if you have to reach up or down - the catcher will stay flat on the surface while it's turned and the critter can't escape.

I'm really pleased with them.

NICE job!
Far as PLA and heat.. I made a lamp door cover for a projector which had a missing door ( you guys call them beamers in the UK) and it expanded and actually broke the projector case. I fixed the case and make one with ABS and never had another issue. Also made some prosthetics which need the arm cuff termoformed.. Watching PLA turn to a limp noodle in 100C water is very eye opening as to how fast and soft it gets.. Anyway, its all good, use what works best for you and the finished part!
I think there was a B horror movie with some giants that used something similar to your bug catcher to catch people! :-)