Printable View
Does anyone have or have used these printers? I'm looking at both, and swaying more towards the Di Vinci for the 3D scanning ability, but the R1 has a larger build...does anyone have any suggestions on which to go with? I will be using this for mostly prototypes. Thanks
don't expect the scanner aspect to be much good.
Personally i'd go for the robo - out of those 2.
A fellow in our makerspace has the Robo 1 and absolutely loves the printer. The quality of the prints he shows is good and the printer has been generally reliable. He's lost the heated bed and doesn't care, although I've offered to help him troubleshoot the problem. He likes the printer sufficiently to want to purchase a second one, but they don't appear on the market much anymore. The newer models don't appeal to him at all.
I've worked on the printer with him, although I can't recall why. It's easy to take apart for any reason, as the outer shell is decorative only.
I've not read anything good about the DaVinci, but that's just a vague recollection.
I'm going to go with the R1. The choices of filament that it can run sells it for me.
Another question, does anyone know anything about using sublimation printing with 3D printed parts? I have a customer that wants a 3D printed cup for a prototype, but wants to use sub printing to make logos on it and such. I have no clue if it will work with 3D or not, since I'm still new to this.
If the process to be used is dye sublimation printing, there is the consideration that layer lines might cause the film to bubble or entrap air bubbles in the valleys of the layers. If the model being printed is smoothed after printing, and has a uniform surface, it might not be as problematic. The above reference was based on commercial printing equipment. I have also found a maker type resource: https://www.wikihow.com/Dye-Sublimat...m-Printed-Mugs
This indicates that 204 deg C is used to apply the film. The drawing shows a pressure device being used. Expect that after the noted three minutes, the PLA or ABS is likely to be squished into an unrecognizable shape! PLA conducts heat fairly well and will distribute it through the mug, making the whole thing turn into mush.
You can soften PLA under hot water, so 204 deg C isn't going to be healthy for the mug. I expect that commercial versions of this printing device will be as hot.
what fred said.
The dyeing thing probably won't work.
Also the mug will probably not be water tight unless you make it completely solid.
bear in mind that when slicers say infill is 100% - they lie :-)
To get a completely solid item in simpify3d you set infill to 100% (which bizarrely, is still a mesh) - but more importantly you tell it to use a solid diaphragm every layer - and that's the one that produces solid objects.
I have a bird water tray screwed into a bottle. Totally watertight.
Any other settings I've tried have never been watertight.
So bear that in mind :-)
Thanks for the info guys. The 3D proto is only for visual, not to be used as an actual cup, if that helps. I was looking at using a PETG or something for the print since the R1 can run it. I'm thinking that the printing won't work for what he's trying to do...
you can get high heat pla that's good up to 110c.
Not cheap, but might be worth a try.
Any suggestions?Quote:
Originally Posted by curious aardvark
Would 110 deg C plastic hold up to a 204 deg C heater for 3 minutes?
no idea - might do, guess it would depend on how much pressure was used to apply the transfer.
I was intrigued to read in the notes for the mug press that the pressure to ensure a good print would require that the foam pads surrounding the mug be expanded (bulge) to the mug top and also to close the sides of the clamp. Pretty substantial forces appear to be involved.
I think it might be possible to use an epoxy coating on the 3D printed mug to strengthen and make watertight the mug, but epoxy conducts heat too, making the sublimation printing aspect yet questionable.
Hm, sounds like this might not work if that's the case...anyone have any other suggestions?
If your objective is to create a prototype mug, you could 3D print the model, ideally without undercuts, then use the model as the "plug" for a silicone mold. If the mug has a handle, that would complicate things, but would still be possible. Once you have the mold, you could use any quality casting resin to generate another mug that isn't so sensitive to temperature. You'd want to sand away the layer lines or otherwise treat the 3D print (primer, glossy paint) before performing the casting, as silicone molding picks up every detail, even fingerprints! It adds another series of steps to the process, but you've referenced it as a prototype, not a production, justifying the extra work.
first - try it :-)
People keep telling me I can't do things with fdm.
Mostly they're wrong.
So first thing - try it, might work, might not. You don't know till you try :-)
I like to make mistakes too. It's better if the mistakes could be small but the learning experience will be large. It's even better if the mistakes aren't repeated, but as time passes, it's easier to forget the learning process.
In 2021 Quinny is wondering:confused: what could be the best options to utilize for the designing of mugs.
Others might wonder as I do, why Quinny speaks of himself/herself in the third person. (grin)