Printable View
Im having the following problems with my printed objects:
Attachment 4188
The bottom layer on all my prints are not filled in all the way.
Attachment 4189
The top layer is even worse than the bottom layer.
Im printing ABS at 250 with the heated bed at 110. So far ive been adjusting the Z endstop height but that hasn't shown a difference. Could this be a bed leveling issue?
Also I calibrated my printer using the method shown in ZennmasterM's youtube videos.
Thanks!
My guess it that you need to calibrate your esteps and measure your filament.
I also have a question that falls into a similar category.
ABS warping... Do most people actually manage to print it flat or is there just an acceptable level of warp at some point?
In an enclosure trying abs glue, glue stick, and hairspray... Things are always warping... Usually to varying degrees... But good grief... I printed clough42s modified x carraige plate and it is moderately warped now im on to trying to print the fam shroud section on aytempt 4... Im hoping at this point i can just finish it so that i can get it installed and the air from the fan redirected... I think that is whats causing it because all of the pieces warp on the back side of the print which is where the air hits thw piece of wood and is deflected downwards.
You can print flat ABS part, a brim should help and prevent those lifting corners. I dont run active cooling without putting a brim on PLA or ABS. The cheap filaments I used is pretty much guarentee to warp.
I re-calibrated my esteps and its spot on now. My prints are still turning out bad though. I have been experimenting with different extrusion multipliers in Slic3r but none have made much of a difference. I've tried 0.9 - 1.2
EDIT: Here is an image of what im getting for a first layer
Attachment 4191
can you post hotend specs nozzle size and screen shots of slic3r settings
the bottom layer looks like first layer width is set to high slic3r default is 200% i use 105%
Im using the hexagon hot end with 0.4mm nozzle for 1.75mm filament.
Here are some Slic3r pics. Let me know if I missed anything important.
Attachment 4221
Attachment 4223
Attachment 4224
Attachment 4225
Attachment 4222
Sorry for the tiny images. Not sure why that happened :/
Here are some more pics:
Attachment 4226
Attachment 4227
I wouldn't mind seeing the settings on the Slic3r filament/cooling tab as well, since settings there can affect what your true print speeds are. I'd back off the retraction speed to 10 or 15 mm/sec. I personally think the bridge speed of 150 mm/sec is high, but there are many who leave it at that. These settings aren't likely, however, to make a difference in what you're seeing.
There might still be an issue in how far away the nozzle is from the print surface. How are you adjusting that? If you are adjusting to the thickness of a piece of paper, try adjusting it so the paper is more snug and try another print.
To me, the pictures suggest something mechanical could be going on. Looking at the perimeters on the bottom view provided in the last picture, the extrusion width varies at the lower left and the upper right sides. This, along with the waviness in the diagonal extrusions suggests to me that something in the X or Y axis might not be moving smoothly. With the nozzle cool and raised off the bed, try gripping the aluminum block and manipulating it by hand. You shouldn't feel any play in it. The Y-bed also has to have no play in it. It could be that one of the belts is loose, or that one or more of the eccentric spacers on the printer aren't adjusted properly, leaving something to shift around as directions change.
I'd also make sure the large gear on the extruder doesn't rub against the bolts for the two wheels at the top of the X-carriage. Rubbing there has led to some unusual extrusion patterns as the wheel catches and slips, catches and slips, etc.
All of these are at least easy things to check and rule out.
Thanks for the detailed comments Printbus :)
Here are the pics you asked for:
Attachment 4231 I have played around with the extrusion multiplier but it did not make a noticeable difference.
Attachment 4232My fan is wired directly to my power supplie's 12V so its constantly cooling my hexagon hot end.
Im starting to think the problem is mechanical because my Y bed belt seemed pretty loose. Its adjusted and fixed now. Also when the hot end is fully heated im about 2 paper thicknesses above the glass. Probably too far right?
Just reading through this post and I was going to suggest you check belt tension. You look like you are still too high on first layer and possible your not extruding enough plastic, perhaps the filament is not as large as you have it set for in your slicing software. All minor things that you can resolve easily. Keep at it and you will have great prints soon.
Yeah, two layers of paper is too much. Adjust that down so the hot nozzle is a bit snug on just one piece of paper. The fan discussed in the cooling tab would be an additional one used to cool the print. I just wanted to see whether you'd be printing fast. No. What the cooling settings will do is slow down the print speed in order to meet your 30 second minimum layer time, down to the 10mm/sec minimum speed setting.
Alright so I tightened my X and Y belts and adjusted my nozzle height to 1 paper length. I printed the test cube again and the results were much better than before.
Attachment 4233bottom
Attachment 4234side
Attachment 4235top
The top layers need some work still. Is this a result of being too close to the bed? Im pretty sure I watched my nozzle hit through the top layers revealing the infill pattern.
Any suggestions or comments?
Much better. Based on how the first layer looks, I don't think your nozzle is too close to the bed. Even though you've calibrated the extruder steps per unit, there's still a chance that you're under-extruding. That'd be determined through something like a single-wall calibration print where you measure the actual extrusion width. Barring that, I'm one of the people that feels slic3r tends to under-extrude in general, and a non-solid top layer is a common problem with it. Slic3r does give you the option to increase the extrusion width on solid infill and top solid infill layers. That'd be something you could try. Those settings are under Print Settings | Advanced.
Its kinda funny really you work so hard to get i good looking print that actually sticks and doesnt warp...
Once you get there its because youce managed to tweak and tune everything to the point that it is so hot that you actually need print cooling for thw upper layers so that they stay where they are supposed to :-D
Im to that point now... Just have to hook it up and start experimenting
My printer has been giving me good quality prints for the last few days but they have all been about the same size as the test cube, so pretty small. I decided to print out an spare large extruder gear. Here are my results which aren't pretty. At some point during my print there was either bad warping or poor bed adhesion because one of the sides lifted off the glass a bit and through everything off. (It was on the back side so I didnt notice it to cancel the print...) Any comments on what might be going on here?
http://3dprintboard.com/attachment.p...tid=4249&stc=1
http://3dprintboard.com/attachment.p...tid=4250&stc=1
that would be shrinkage that pulled it off the bed. there is no one thing fixes all solution it's something that everyone has to figure out for themselves. I will say that the stock fan seems to be a pretty big culpret
clough's fan replacement helps alot... until then making the fan pull instead of push with the hexagon hot end helps alot
If you turn the fan around to pull and i put a shroud on mine to force the air up it was pulling out. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:40453
belts check them every time your getting ready for lot's of printingQuote:
Originally Posted by Schnupp
even as is print and add this
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:359773
they help a lot with belt rubbing
and last note:
set Z height when everything heated
if height problem persists look in to auto bed leveling as it checks and sets z height for you ;-)
but setup and getting the Z offset just right takes a tad bit of work and a few failed test prints
i used a 10mm cube and let it print the first 15 layers at .2mm layer height killed it and shifting the z offset tell it looked just right on the bottom
agreeQuote:
Originally Posted by JohnA136
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schnupp
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnA136
a fan shroud to match prints nice to using default slic3r bridge settings and 4 top and bottom layersQuote:
Originally Posted by bstag
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:620905
does come out niceQuote:
Originally Posted by TechMasterJoe
http://3dprintboard.com/attachment.p...tid=4252&stc=1
I'm having problems with the corners of my test cube being "higher" then the rest of the cube. The corners are not lifting from the glass at all, but it seems extra material is left on the corners or the corners warp up for some reason. Suggestions on what I should be tuning?
PLA, 185 hotend, 65 bed temp, 1.75mm hexagon, Cura, 20 mm/s bottom layer, 80 mm/s other layers, 10 sec minimal layer time, .2mm layer height
http://3dprintboard.com/attachment.p...tid=4267&stc=1
Looks to me like you're printing on soft material since the underlying layers aren't cooling fast enough, caused by the combination of a hot print bed, fast print speed, and relatively short layer time. Adding a print cooling fan would be another consideration.Quote:
Originally Posted by bkmartin
Hi bkmartin and welcome to the forum!
In addition to what printbus mentioned, it also looks like you are over-extruding which is a common issue and will need to be calibrated each time a new filament is used. Basically the volume of the filament coming out of the nozzle is too much.
Check out this thread (procedures 1 and 2*) to calibrate the extrusion as much as you can.
http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...nd-Proportions
*Note: for this procedure, slic3r is used but the "extrusion multiplier" is likely the same as the "packing density" setting in cura.
Thanks printbus and gmay3. Based on printbus' input, I decreased the speed and increased the minimum layer time and got what I consider very good results with just a minor aberration on the corner closest to "home", but only in the bottom 25% of the print. I will take a look at the extrusion calibration as well.
http://3dprintboard.com/attachment.p...tid=4271&stc=1
Here is an update on my printing problems. I reversed my fan to pull air and printed the fan shroud you guys suggested. Also I noticed that my X-axis was about 5mm higher on the left side than it was on the right. I adjusted them to be equal and my prints have been pretty darn solid ever since. Here's an example:
http://3dprintboard.com/attachment.p...tid=4270&stc=1
Thanks for the help everyone ;)
Can anyone tell me what caused the dark spot on the owl's chest in my photo? My extruding temp is set at 250. Im assuming that its too high and may lower it a bit
http://3dprintboard.com/attachment.p...tid=4285&stc=1
Something I would check is to make sure your thermistor in your hotend is very secure. My best guess for this random darker band is an artificial temp reading on your LCD during the the middle of the print while the thermistor popped out of place for a bit and caused the hotend to heat higher than it was commanded to.Quote:
Originally Posted by Schnupp
I'm guessing you're printing ABS at this temp, which I would consider a little higher than needed. Generally I have followed the RepRap Wiki as far as extruder temperatures and bed temperatures and have had good results. As a data point I have always printed ABS at 225C with a 110C bed. (I think these are from the the 8" i3v defaults from makerfarm)
http://reprap.org/wiki/ABS
If you're using the hex hot end and stock hot end shroud, another possibility is that the bottom plate of the shroud melted away, and brown-ish drips of the melted shroud have dribbled around the aluminum block and down off the nozzle. Mine dripped off a corner of the aluminum block and not the nozzle when the shroud melted, but flowing onto the nozzle seems like just as plausible. Several of us cut out that bottom plate of the shroud to prevent this from happening.Quote:
Originally Posted by Schnupp
Another possibility is that section of your filament was slightly discoloured before being run through the extruder.