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Anybody ever had this? The eccentric spacers aren't overtightened, but the bed is still "bowed" downward, which makes it strike the top of the Y axis idler bracket. Since this is well before the Y endstop, this caused the motor to get very unhappy on a trip to Home, and start skipping teeth, and make an awful noise, trying to get to the Y endstop. I suppose a picture is probably in order. :/
Attachment 3027
Wow that looks bowed alot.
Is this a new printer? If so, contact Makerfarm, they will make it right.
I read someone else had one warping really bad when heat was applied to the bed.
Yeah. It's about a week old.
EDIT: He's got one on the way. I wish I knew what caused it, though. :/ At first, I thought maybe the spacers were too tight, pulling the bed together, but they weren't. Just enough to keep the bed from wiggling.
I had this issue, it wasn't hitting the idler bracket, but it was bowed enough that the eccentric spacers couldn't be tightened enough to hold the bed stable and it would wobble. I also started about a week after I finished putting the printer together. I emailed Colin, an he sent me a new bed the next day. Its been about 3 weeks since I installed the new bed and it is fine so far. The baltic birch plywood ought to be pretty stable against warping, but there must be the occasional bad batch.
Hey, orionthunter: We'll have to let each-other know as things go on. If yours acts up again, let me know, and I'll do the same. I'm with you, this isn't flimsy stuff. That might be why I'm kinda confused as to what caused it.
I am nearing the end of my build, working on the electronics now, and waiting for Colin to ship me a m3 x 50mm bold for the extruder that somehow got stripped out. Will be interesting to see if I have the same issue or not.
I had the same problem ,i had some 3mm aluminum sheet stock ,and used the old bed as a template to cut it to shape ,no more warping . Also went to a HVAC place for some good insulation(for between the heated plate and the aluminum) ,and now the bed heats up twice as fast .
hal9000: What did you end up getting? My bed is awful slow, but I figure that's what the big bed does. Rocking a pizza box, atm. Doubled up, since they're thin. There are some hardware stores around, but I wouldn't know what to buy.
I found some 12x12 inch sheets of 5mm thick cork somewhere. Cut out an 8x8 inch square, cut out holes and notches for the bolts and binder clips, haven't had any trouble.
I got some fluffy insulation form the air-co heating shop, it is foil backed ,rated to 300 deg f, i turned the fluffy part toward the bed ,after i had peeled it down to about 3/4 inch thick ,then i taped the edge of the foil to the bed ,making it as air tight as i could .i used shiny silver furnace tape ,also from the HVAC place.they gave me enough scraps to do it ,so i had no cost at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by theAut0
I found some cork board sheets at staples that was about 5mm thick that I used at first but it was too thick and didnt allow enough room to clamp the glass to the heat bed using binder clips and the cork board also would interfere with bed leveling due to its thickness. The white spacer between the heat plate and the wooden bed on the upper right hand corner of the heat bed is also just about 5mm tall, which is pretty much why I was having issues with clearance. Im using just some cardboard now and it is doing the job just fine. If someone wants to use cork board, to get more room, it would be a good idea to replace the white spacer with a another spring (will result in 1 spring on each corner) to adjust for more room between the heat plate and the wooden bed.Quote:
Originally Posted by AbuMaia
I got mine from Lowes, they are shelf liner squares. They seem to fit just fine for thickness. Forgot to measure them last night though.
Hello hal9000,
Are you still Using the 3mm aluminum for your bed? I just wondering as I am running into issues with my 12" bed warping as well. I see MSC has a 1/8 12X12 sheet for $15. My bed isn't affecting anything yet, but I want to be able to stop thinking about it.
The same happend to my 12" bed. Sadly I didnt got a new one. Maybe because of the shipping cost to Switzerland 😬.
I had to order a new one.
Does somebody have right dimensons for the wohle 12" bed? I am would also like to make one in al.
Colin gave me the drawing in a wired laser cutter file which I am not able to open.
Pgx2s
By the way I was able to use the bed again after i turned it upsidedown :-)
best fix is get the wood bed home
put in oven or on hotbed at 180f for a few hours to slowly drive some of the moisture out.
while warm from oven PAINT IT seal it
i did this just because i know what wood wants to do when i got the printer going on 5 months even better then the day i got it (the low temp even heat bake to some of the org bowing out apx 3mm)
now i say from point to point no part of the bed is off by more then 1mm
Source file for the 12"i3v
I have considered making a aluminum bed for my 10" i3v & T6 aluminum seems to be what I have read works best for this. Maybe someone else has a better choice of materials for this. This site you can get 6061 T6 Aluminum Sheet to the size you want in increments of 1/16". I can get a 10 3/8" square by .19 thick sheet for $12.21, but shipping is another $13.61, so I would probably order 2 sheets in case I mess one up on the drilling process.
https://www.midweststeelsupply.com/s...1aluminumsheet
I was going to use this part for the belt clamp under the aluminum plate, or modify if it does not quite fit my dimensions.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:619347
is this a file for a cnc to process the 12" blank not sure what it is for?Quote:
Originally Posted by beerdart
Thanks for this dxf file. I was looking for something like this for the 10" i3v, but some of the parts are probably the same & maybe able to shrink the other files by 2" for the 10". I scanned all my wooden parts in on my 2d scanner before putting mine together, thinking I might at some point be able to use them for tracing over along with measuring with a digital caliper to get more accurate dimensions. How did you come across these files? Are these available for the 10" i3v somewhere?
Thanks,
David
Quote:
Originally Posted by beerdart
Thx a lot!!!
Here is what I have come up with for the i3v10" Y-Bed. I have not tested this yet, but figured I would print about a portion of this in plastic diagonally on my printer to verify the wheel hole spacing & holes where heat bed attaches. I am not sure when I will get around to using this, but since we were on the subject in this thread, thought I would share it with others to see if it was useful or if someone had suggestions for modifying it for less weight. The size of the wheel holes work for plastic, but not sure if the same size will work for aluminum.
Attachment 5494