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hi guys im having real problems atm with my print lifting i have put new tape on hoping that would solve the problem but no luck. i have a heated bed and its heated to 110 as it came out of the shop.
is this too hot is that the problem? is there something else i can put down to help it stick? i have heard of pva glue put down but not sure if that was for a heated bed. oh im printing in abs.
thanks for your help in advance rich
bed's either not completely flat or it's not calibrated properly.
Also try it at 100 - rather than 110.
The thing about abs is that while it sticks better to a hot bed - having the bottom layers hotter also increases the temperature difference further up the model which is what cause the lower layers to shrink and pull the model off the bed.
Since I've added a completely flat printbed to mine I've eliminated lift and warp.
Also use blue painters tape - I use duck brand. You'll need a flexible and very thin scraper to get the models off !
What printer do you have ?
Glue stick people, glue stick!
And a hammer... in case it works too well. :p
And that ok with a heated bed??Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainObvious
Either you're running too hot, try setting down from 110 to 100. Also make sure the bed is CLEAN, with aceton as you can buy online or in ur hardware shop.
Hey rich.
kapton tape works good because its heat resistant and gives the print a little adhesive. The only issue is that is is very thin and tends to shred easily if you put too much fore on pulling the print out. You can find it in most art supply stores or electronic stores that sell soldering equipment, pcb's and small mirco controllers.
But what I found even better than kapton is Pept tape. super strong, super easy removal, heat resistant. These things aren't sold in many stores i've ever found, but you can order them online from places like ebay, alibaba, and amazon. like this link : http://shenglongpan.en.alibaba.com/p...petp_tape.html.
Either way, you're not going to regret getting the tape as opposed to pouring on liquid abs resin. Toxic, messy and just needs too much work.
A kids glue stick works well on blue tape and ABS plastic, PLA doesn't need the glue so much really. The glue will make your job stick so well, it will most likely take the tape with it .Quote:
Originally Posted by rich9517
Hairspray is only good on glass and kapton, it simply absorbs into blue tape and doesnt do anything.
110 is ok for ABS, I print in that all the time, sometimes I lower it,sometimes I dont. Never be afraid to go super low on your heatbed, you wont break anything :) try going down to 102 or 104.. if it doesnt stick try 106.. you will find the magic number for that particular plastic, you will find often they are all different and need a little tweaking. There is also a few degrees between what your sensor says and the actual temp, so often what I did was simply put 2 layers of blue tape, OR a layer of kapton with blue tape over the top, this gave it better insulation and the temp seemed to regulate better. Just level your bed to compensate for that extra layer of tape. Also the first layer is super important man, make sure that thing goes down well and in tight lines. Big gaps in the lines in your first layer means less adhesion to the bed, that's why Rafted prints often always work because they have such a good surface area on the build platform.
The thermistor for my print bed is attached to the underside of the bed. I wonder how much difference there is in temperature between the underside of the heated pad where the thermistor is located and the surface of the glass print plate. Perhaps a solution to lifting layers would be to fix the thermistor to the top of the print bed glass, so that the reported temperature is more realistic.Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoff
Old Man Emu
Quote:
Originally Posted by old man emu
Or is there some easy way to calibrate the reading of the thermister to the actual temperature on the top of the print surface?
Dee
Just get an infrared thermometer from ebay.
How accurate are those infrared thermometers? I have one from Harbor Freight but I have no idea how accurate it is. I use it to check the temperature of the oven when I'm cooking Thanksgiving turkey and so far I haven't burned or under cooked one yet. :cool:
Im having the same issue with PLA . Im using blue tape and the extruder is 200. Im using a printr bot go large.
Well it seems to work then?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dee Smith
Calibrate it then.
Just get a known temp source and shoot that. Humans are actually well regulated, so you know at worst your looking at 37c +/-1. Just stick an oral thermometer in your mouth to get a baseline, then shoot your tongue with the IR thermo. Should be close enough for your needs.
even the cheap ir thermos are pretty accurate.
If you are printing on Blue Painters tape and want more adhesion, just wipe it with an alcohol wipe before printing. It should stick like crazy! For my sons PrintrBot I just use the plain Blue Tape and everything stuck great.
On Kapton tape (only used on our ABS machines), we use a slurry of Acetone and ABS to get a good stick. We run our heated beds at 100 all the time for ABS and 45-60 for PLA. At Maker Faire NY some guys gave us a sample of BuildTak and it worked outside, in the wind, dust and humidity all weekend long. I just ordered it for my Kossel and Prusa printers.
Hair Spray is for women, don't gunk up your printer! ;)
How long does the blue tape last? More than one print or does it need reapplied each time?
Depends if the bed's heated. A heated bed will kill mine quicker, I will get 4-5 good prints out of it before it loses a bit of stick and I need the glue stick,Quote:
Originally Posted by Marm
If the bed is never heated like my kossel, I get maybe 10 good prints, but the best thing with the blue tape, you place it in commonly used areas of your beds and make your strips cover broad parts in those areas. If you are printing smaller things you then only really need to be replacing a smaller amount of tape at a time. I usually do the bed levelling with a plain bed with kapton, then after levelling put the blue tape on over the kapton, this makes the print false start a little lower than expected due to the extra 0.08mm of blue tape or whatever it is, so the first layer is super accurate for me, especially tracing fine details on the first layer, raftless of course.
EDIT: Post in wrong section.