Optimal humidity level for PTE-G???

Hello. I always printed with PLA, for the last 18 months. The for Christmas I was given a roll of PTE-G by OVERTURE. Looks like a nice quality package. First few prints came out great. Then issues started. Bubbles, stringing, lines not stick ing to one another. I found out how PTE-G is more likely to absorb moisture from air. Back into the vacume bag it went along with every desican pouch I could find. It also went back in box it came in. I have a dehumidifier running 24/7 and the humidity hovers around 51%-53%. Temps average mid 60*. After about a month packed away, I got out the PTE-G for 4 part, 8 hours each print job Im making. Im making a main locomotive wheel and had to split it into 4 identical sections. The first 2 sections printed flawlessly. The third failed big time. Was like it didnt stick to the bed and got cought on nozzle somehow. Im a purple glue stick of printer, so I cleaned off the Bed of all residual glue. Im going to leave the roll of PTE-G packed away for atlest 24-48 hours then try again with clened bed. This time was about 12-36 hours for the two good prints. Ive watched some youtube vids on useing a toaster oven to dry out filiments such as PTE-G, as the main hosehold oven is out of the question So my question is to those printing with PTE-G, what humidity is you room, or how do you handle PTE-G

My workshop is around 45-55% humidity.
very cold in winter and hot in summer.
As low as 10c in winter and as high as 30c in summer - but the humidity is always fairly stable for some reason.

I tend to just leave filament around on shelves. Almost never bother to store properly.
And have yet to have any moisture related issues.

I don't use much pet-g - but the roll I currently have ongoing. is just stuck on a shelf.
Been stored like that for over a year and the odd occasion I need something to withstand higher temps, prints absolutely fine with none of the little pops you get with 'wet' filament.

But it sounds like you need one of those storage/printing boxes that keep the filament properly dry.

CA My Print workshop is in a fully finished basement where temp averages 65-68F and with electric dehumidifier running 24/7, the humaditties level is 52-54%. It seemes this my first roll of PTEG HAS A "OUT OF PACKAGE" life of 24 hours. When I first opened new, it printed great for first 24-36 hours. Then had issues not sticking. globbing up on bed. And same settings used. I packed it back in vac bag came in with all the lil desicant pouches I could round up. folded bag over and placed back into box it came in. Flash ahead 2 months and I thought I'd try the PTEG again. I have a print job that is 4 sections at 8 hours each. First two printed great. Next day the third printed good. the last section I had to stop, was not sticking to the bed and funky looking strings. Back into bag/box for 24 hours. Clean bed. Try again. After doing some research on how to dry filament, I'm thinking getting a food dehydrator or filament dryer from SUNU (sp?) PLA I've only used for last year with no issues. I want to be able to use PTEG so I just received 3 rolls of the stuff. So Im gonna figure a system out

Well tried same roll again and print failed. it was to be expected. Desicant only good Ive read for maintaining moisture in a package, not to lower it. So in order to finish I have to either dry somehow this roll of PTEG or open up a brand new roll of PTEG. I would rather get the original roll kinks out before opening another.

food dehydrator is kind of a requirement.. Never had wet filament do the things you are talking about.. with wet petg you get bubbles.. not failed prints the I have ever run into. PETG that does not stick is normally a Z offset issue, because PETG can rip chunks out of a glass bed when removing the part..

Yes A food dehydrator is tops on my list. The moisture issue is what Im thinking. PLA runs great with no problems other than once every 5-6 prints I have to clean the glass bed. check bed level ,which I have done with the PTEG.

not bed level - z-axis OFFSET.

IE: how far above the bed you start printing.
Most slicers will let you adjust it.

So if i were you, I'd adjust it down (negative value) in increments of 0.05mm
Until it either sticks or the nozzle gets blocked 'cos it's too close to the bed :-)

From what I've seen recently - particularly angus talking about bed levelling with folded sheets of paper. People are obviously calibrating way too high above the bed.
Use a single thickness of unfolded printer paper.
Why anyone would fold it is beyond me :-)

Also consider buying a sheet of cheap self adhesive pei.
Soooo much better than pva glue.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/12476816529...wAAOSwmypgww3L

For the dehydrator - you'll need one with an adjustable thermostat.
The flying saucer ones will cook the filament and potentially let it change shape or even bond to itself.

Also pet-g doesn't like pva glue. That could be your problem maybe.

WHAT i BEEN USING IS eLMERS WASABLE STICK GLUE GOES ON PURPLE DRIES CLEAR. Has worked great for PLA, and THE first 3 eight hour PTEG prints. For bed leveling I use CHEPS gcode and ONE sheet of paper on a heated bed. I run a gcode of a PLA print with no problems. humiditry in print room is 53% right now. I had noticed earlier it was 49%. Just finished watching video of a guy made a dual roll heated dry box. Vairable temp heated pad, temp/humid guage, and can use the filament straigt out of the box. I also just spent 20 mins looking for same 11 litter storage container show in video. Only problem is it $20-$50 shipping from UK. Ill take a ride to local store to see if have something I can use

$1 vacuum bags is all you need to store Like these
https://www.ebay.com/itm/20350240556...Cclp%3A2334524

Airscapes I think I'll look on US Ebay LIL steep with $22 shipping, BUT THANK YOU ANYWAY

I (still) have the save issues with my PETG. I also use Overture. Out of the box, it prints butter smooth, but after a few days, it'll string, blob, and not stick. I live in SE-WI where the humidity can get in the 80% range and outside heat in the 90's+. My house stays ~70-72 (21-22C), and can reach on rainy days to 60% humidity. I use a food dehydrator to dry my filament before i print, and it'll last maybe 2-3 days before having to do it again. Desiccant packets are useless IMO. once they absorb their cap in moisture, they wont work anymore. I use the calcium chloride drying pods from the dollar store. They dry better, and keep drying until the pellets are gone. I had a similar issue with my PETG not sticking when it gets wet. I also found that, on my ender 5+, the pure glass backside of the bed works awesome for Overture PETG, but you have to let it cool before taking the part off, otherwise the glass comes with it... I do have a feeling my dehydrator may not be as hot as i need it though.

Once I dry a roll, I put the roll back in the plastic bag it came in and then that bag in a vacuum bag (from the $1 store or ebay) close it and suck the air out with the vacuum. This is how I store the roll until it is needed again.. remove it from the printer when the last job of the day is done and seal it up.. The reason for the double bag is that when you vacuum the bag down, any sharp edge will cause a leak. putting the roll in the bag it came in and then the vacuum bag makes the vacuum bag las longer.. I don't really do much drying of PETG with this process.. as it stays dry as long as I put it away when not in use.

That's a great way to do it. I'm working on a spool holder dry box that i can load with dry filament and forget about... I will post it here and on thingiverse once it's done. ;)

I went and built a "drying box". made with a airtight water proof tote, a reptile heater, and some printed parts to support the filament along with temp/humid sensor. After 48 hours the 4 clip lid has been secured, 84 degrees and 44%humidity. The humidity sensor next to my computer reads 51% humidity. I think if I want to get down lower I need a dehydrator

probly 3/4 single sheet paper

I was thinking of some kind of box so I could keep all my filament together, but I don't have room to mount it. The filament container I'm making resembles a bobbin holder on a sewing machine, or a weed Wacker spool, and takes advantage of the spool rod being significantly smaller than the spool.

This is where I got idea for my dryer box https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RvTTQqqWIWA&t=6s mine is still in testing stage. there is areptile heater in it