Adhesion problems CR10S Pro V2

Hi I am a total newbie and bought the CR10S Pro V2 after numerous reviews suggested it was not only a good starting printer but was also very capable and easy to use. I created my first print with a raft (a small maze) and was very happy with the result however since then I have downloaded a couple of simple designs from Thingiverse and had the object printing move on the bed, obviously spoiling it. I had not used a raft in either as each said not required. Also my latest print started off a bit stringy as well although it seemed to correct itself. I am pretty sure I have leveled the bed well also this printer has BL Touch, I'm not sure if that needs turning on or is automatically on?
My question is the following. Do I need to do anything at the end of a print job or start of a new one to ensure the head is clean and the filament comes out efficiently? And secondly how do I ensure my object doesn't move during the print process (I am using standard PLA), I saw a mention of hairspray but would have thought that this model printer would be capable of printing without such a requirement. Appreciate any advice.

Using Hair Spray can help, Or printing closer to the print bed by 0.1mm can also help with adhesion.

Sometime I print on vinyl transfer Paper Tape to help with curvier models.

I'm a little worried about getting the head too close and damage it - i've usied the .2mm tool and have it so that it moves in and out with a little friction. How about the start with a little spaghetti. could that be the head too far away or does the head need cleaning before starting a new print? Thanks

Please read this web site

Thank you so much for your help.

with an ender 3 I set the nozzle above the bed at 3 thousandth of an inch or 0.075mm max 2thou 0.05mm minimum height so I think you are 2 to 3 times too high

I watched a Youtube video where the guy explained that you use the feeler under the head at each of the corner points so that it just moves in and out. The feeler gauge is .02mm so isn't that about the same as what your saying. Apologies for the basic knowledge but if you follow the manual there not even a mention of what the tool is for or indeed the need to use it?

Yes more or less I haven't had a chance to look at the video but are you sure he said 0.02 mm not 2 thousandth of an inch called 2mil in usa which is the normal min level setting equivalent to 0.058mm the usual level setting is often 0.08mm (3mil ) the thickness of 80 gram printer paper.!

I'm also in Uk (so metric) I'm not actually going by what he said - he was using the feeler gauge (that comes with the printer) which is .2mm (according to a reference online) I use this under the head and ensure I call feel a little friction as I move the gauge. I have also seen mention of using A4 paper which I assume would be a lot thinner.Thanks

yes that is what you do so a guess its 2 thou gauge and the size has been lost in the translation from Chinese. For ref heavy duty cooking foil is 0.02mm so very thin. Aside from that 2 Thou would be fine I use a piece of shim stock 3 thou for my reference. That is 0.075mm

Great thanks for advice, i'm learning a little at a time but now i'll add heavy duty foil as well as hairspray to my shopping list!
Much appreciated

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Originally Posted by Davidtja

I'm also in Uk (so metric) I'm not actually going by what he said - he was using the feeler gauge (that comes with the printer) which is .2mm (according to a reference online) I use this under the head and ensure I call feel a little friction as I move the gauge. I have also seen mention of using A4 paper which I assume would be a lot thinner.Thanks

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And these manipulations do not accidentally depend on the printer model? On mine this will not work, probably. And there is no such need.

Hi David I have just had the chance to read the installation instruction for your machine I think the second stage of bed leveling is calibrating the auto leveling system so it is the first stage with a piece of paper which sets the zero height reference for the system auto leveling compensates for lack of flatness in the bed by adjusting the z axis. In general auto levelers are troublesome things and quiet unnecessary if the machine print bed is flat which is why many user install Glass beds.