Nozzle constantly clogs,can't seem to find a solution

Good evening,
For almost 3 years I have a stock Tevo Tarantula,except for some minor improvements.

Some months ago while printing a 4 hour PETG print my nozzle clogged for the first time ever.
I unclogged it and from that moment till now the nozzle cloggs and I can't get a print finished.
Sometimes it happens at the start,sometimes after 1 hour.
It doesn't always totally clog, but when it does you can hear the extruder clicking and underextrument will appear or it wont print at all.
So what I did:
-Tried another extruder (I have a Titan extruder,tried the stock one)
-Changed nozzles
-Changed PTFE tube
-Changed throat,even got an all metal one
-Changed the fan with a bigger 40mm one,in order to have more airfow
-Updated the firmware,from Marlin 1.1 to 2.0.
-Tried other filaments.Neither PETG,nor PLA can print.
-Even applied thermal paste to the throat and insulated the hotend
-Replaced the hotend block
-Replaced the thermistor and the heating element

I can't find the cause of the clogs and I've replaced everything that the filament goes through.It just doesn't make sense.
I am using Simplify3D and even when just asking the printer to extrude ,the extruder will start clicking.

So any idea what else I can check on,before I get a new one and just throw this one out of the windows?
Thanks.

Its a longshot but have you tried another slicer? Like downloading cura and use a profile from a website thats already setup for your model and do a print just to see if a setting somewhere in simplify might be causing it? It sounds like you have tried everything possible.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dant3

Good evening,
For almost 3 years I have a stock Tevo Tarantula,except for some minor improvements.

Some months ago while printing a 4 hour PETG print my nozzle clogged for the first time ever.
I unclogged it and from that moment till now the nozzle cloggs and I can't get a print finished.
Sometimes it happens at the start,sometimes after 1 hour.
It doesn't always totally clog, but when it does you can hear the extruder clicking and underextrument will appear or it wont print at all.
So what I did:
-Tried another extruder (I have a Titan extruder,tried the stock one)
-Changed nozzles
-Changed PTFE tube
-Changed throat,even got an all metal one
-Changed the fan with a bigger 40mm one,in order to have more airfow
-Updated the firmware,from Marlin 1.1 to 2.0.
-Tried other filaments.Neither PETG,nor PLA can print.
-Even applied thermal paste to the throat and insulated the hotend
-Replaced the hotend block
-Replaced the thermistor and the heating element

I can't find the cause of the clogs and I've replaced everything that the filament goes through.It just doesn't make sense.
I am using Simplify3D and even when just asking the printer to extrude ,the extruder will start clicking.

So any idea what else I can check on,before I get a new one and just throw this one out of the windows?
Thanks.

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Hello,
I too have the same problem on a prusa clone with PETG.
making me crazy.
I didn't undergo all the tests @dant3 did but I did changed the entire extruder assembly and got few good prints with specific profile I made. since then I changed that profile and I'm back at the beginning.

I'm using prusa slicer if that helps.

If anyone has any suggestions,
thanks in advance,
Sagi.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jamesban

Its a longshot but have you tried another slicer? Like downloading cura and use a profile from a website thats already setup for your model and do a print just to see if a setting somewhere in simplify might be causing it? It sounds like you have tried everything possible.

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Tried another Slicer,same happens.
I m gonna go ahead and dismantle the whole printer,at least the electronics to make a visual inspection.
Next I m gonna replace the motherboard.
If these dont work,I m gonna sell it and get an Ender 3 V2.

@dant3, looks like my problem was with the feedrates and speed, at least I don't get anymore skips, yesterday when I tried to print I got a clog but I'm not sure why, maybe temprature or something else but the motor didn't skip. you should look into that if you haven't already. hope that will help you.

could be the stepper motor driver chip.
Stepper motors are virtually indestructible, but the chips are a regular consumer item :-)

Certainly doesn't sound like any of the things you've actually changed, as the only other obvious culprit would have been the ptfe liner.

It could also be Stepper drivers V-Ref is too high causing the drivers to over heat, this intern allows the extruder to misstep and ultimately clog.

My 3D Printers have a factory V-Ref of 0.800 volts this caused me many headaches until I finally reduced V-Ref to 0.695 volts.
Added heat-sinks to Driver chips a cooling fan to ensure the controller and all components operated in a recommended temperature range.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by curious aardvark

could be the stepper motor driver chip.
Stepper motors are virtually indestructible, but the chips are a regular consumer item :-)

Certainly doesn't sound like any of the things you've actually changed, as the only other obvious culprit would have been the ptfe liner.

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I guess I have to replace the motherboard if the motor driver chip has gone bad?I have a soldering iron if it is replaceable and I can replace it.
The PTFE liner has been replaced.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Roberts_Clif

It could also be Stepper drivers V-Ref is too high causing the drivers to over heat, this intern allows the extruder to misstep and ultimately clog.

My 3D Printers have a factory V-Ref of 0.800 volts this caused me many headaches until I finally reduced V-Ref to 0.695 volts.
Added heat-sinks to Driver chips a cooling fan to ensure the controller and all components operated in a recommended temperature range.

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I have adjusted the stepper volts ,after the problem appeared too.Actually it was a bit lower than it had to be.
I have added heatsinks to the chokes and some chips,since I first bought the printer.

it depends on the board. The good boards have removeable and replaceble chips in sockets. That just push in and pry out.
The cheap and nasty(not really fair, some very good boards have built in drivers.) ones tend to have the chips soldered to the board. And given how cheap boards are - you might as well replace with a board with sockets.

The beauty of a socket based board is that you can just switch chips round to see if one's bad. :-)

Well mine definetely has no sockets.
The motherboard is a MKS 1.4
Well I think I can try to connect the extruder to the E1 plug.
It supports dual extrusion so I guess it should be able to do that.

Dismantled the printer ,at least the electronics and reconnected everything.
Also disassembled the hotend once again.
I swapped the stepper from E0 to E1.Same happens.
Also swapped the hotend from E0 to E1.No difference.
Well looks like I am out of options.
What should I do?
Should I bother to get another motherboard or sell the printer and get another one?

Do you have the ability to make a video post it to a share like google drive or You-Tube

Then Post a link so we can see!!!

Yeah,I will upload a video.
For now I'm doing some tries with increased temperature.
Looks like 210 C and up ,PLA somehow manages to print.Anything lower than 205 and within a minute,the extruder starts skipping.
I will get another complete hotend,as I haven't changed the heatsink.Found a E6D clone and I'm now printing the carriage.Hope it will manage to finish the print.

Yes it is sometime difficult to determine the temperature that is best for different filaments.

My 3D Printers print PLA at 202C this temperature was verified with a temperature probe on my digital multi-meter.
When 3D Printing ABS set temperature to 232C and a enclosure temperature of 36C prints very good without any warping.

Remember these temperature work for my system an my not work for your material and 3D Printer.
I purchased some inexpensive filament to keep cost down, though have never had any problems to date with my cheap filament.
Filament is now 3 years old and kept in storage containers with moisture eliminator from the dollar store.

Replacing about every 6 months.

Attachment 15355

I think downloading cura and use a profile from a website thats already setup for your model and do a print just to see if a setting somewhere in simplify might be causing it Talk to Strangers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Roberts_Clif

Yes it is sometime difficult to determine the temperature that is best for different filaments.

My 3D Printers print PLA at 202C this temperature was verified with a temperature probe on my digital multi-meter.
When 3D Printing ABS set temperature to 232C and a enclosure temperature of 36C prints very good without any warping.

Remember these temperature work for my system an my not work for your material and 3D Printer.
I purchased some inexpensive filament to keep cost down, though have never had any problems to date with my cheap filament.
Filament is now 3 years old and kept in storage containers with moisture eliminator from the dollar store.

Replacing about every 6 months.

Attachment 15355

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I goy a box and placed all my filaments inside alongside with all the silicone tabs that are given with the filaments,electronics etc.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kennamurray

I think downloading cura and use a profile from a website thats already setup for your model and do a print just to see if a setting somewhere in simplify might be causing it Talk to Strangers

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I tried that and nothing changed.


I got a whole new hot end.This one
Attachment 15363

Left the same electronics,fan,thermistor,resistance etc but still the same.
Sothe only thing left is the motherboard.
I m going to disassemble the hotend and the motherboard and connect only the necessary things on a bench to test.
I might borrow from a friend an Anet A8 to do some swapping,see if I can find out something.

Forgot to take a vid,gonna do that when I get them on bench to test.

Well here is a vid.
The motherboard was on a chair with connected just the necessary.Heater,thermistor and the extruder.Nothing else.
You can clearly listen to the extruder clicking.
Note that the heater and the thermistor are different from those on my printer,so definetely not a problem of these two.
I think changing the MB is the only way to go before other radical solutions :mad:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9t0x...ature=youtu.be

For the record,
I sold the printer and got an Ender 3 V2.
Works great so far with my old filaments.
So I guess it was printer related issue.

it would appear that my concern was with the feed rates and speed, at any rate I don't get additional skips, yesterday when I attempted to print I got a stop up however I don't know why possibly temperature or something different but rather the engine didn't skip. you should investigate that on the off chance that you haven't as of now. trust that will support you. minecraft pour pc