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My 3D printer magnetic stock bed that came with the printer is starting to look a lil raggie. residule long ago ghost images cannot be cleaned, scrubbed, or scraped off. Thinking on replacing hot bed stock material with either Boro… Glass, some type I forget name but its 3 part with semi flex aluminum, or another stock bed? Which would YOU use?
My Ender 3 has the magnetic bed and my Sidewinder has the glass bed. Both have their advantages, but I personally prefer the glass bed slightly. Glass may be your cheapest replacement as well. Just remove the magnetic film and have a piece of glass cut at your local hardware store for a few bucks and use binder clips to hold it on. If you find you like it, spend the money for a brand name glass bed if you wish or stick with the cheapie. If you don't like it, it was cheap and you know to either go with the magnetic, or PEI flex, or something else, there are a few options.
What do you use IF anything to make you prints stick on the glass? I was thinking Borosilicate Glass at $30. Or the Wham Bam system looks good but $55 on their website. I have about 35-40 hours total on stock bed. I thought glass would last longer? Have to wait for glass to cool to remove print?
I don't use any adhesive, just make sure it's clean and you're good. And yes, wait for it to cool and the print pops right off
XAYOZ Thank you I think Ill go with theBorosilicate Glass, Nice and flat hopfully easy to clean
My Makergear comes with a Borosilicate plate covered in Polymide tape. I have tried it without the tape and it works fine for pla but I prefer the tape for ABS or other materials that won't let go and can take chunks out of glass like PETG .
"Chunks out of the glass"? Now im leaning towards the Wham Bam system LOL
I have seen that, was asked to beta test and review it for my printer and passes.. They only wanted people with social media following and any other review got a small discount.. left a bad taste so I will stay with what works well. Good luck with what you buy.
They both have their advantages as others said. It depends a lot on what plastic you print. I have a Prusa MK3 with the magnetic bed and both the powder coated pei and the smooth pei sticker over spring steel. I absolutely love both surfaces and the magnetic bed system. I would not go back to glass for normal printing with PLA or PETG, not a chance. Love how the prints stick and pop right off after. If it stops sticking just use some scotch brite on it and it’s good as new lol.
However, for certain materials like nylon and TPU the PEI is not recommended so I use my old printer with the glass bed for that. I would like to build a high temperature machine that’s liquid cooled. For that I would probably use a boro plate because I think it’s more temperature stable and good for printing PC and other high temp materials.
Hope that helps a bit.
I use a now a boro glass plate, lil purple elmers stick glue and it sticks great. sometimes too great. I want to try dimafix or magicgoo(not sure name) but just bought 6 tubes elmers
When a part is very stuck it is much easier and creates less damage to use a cake icing spatula to "Smack" the part right at the build plate with the edge of the spatula blade. For tall items I use the wooden handle end to smack the top of the part. This won't work well for toys and figures, but for mechanical parts it works very well. If you are using glue can can also remove the glass from the printer and run it under hot water.. the glue dissolves and the part comes off. Too stuck normally means your first layer is too compressed and starting Z offset is not set correctly for your current layer height.
How in say Cura 4.4.1 OR 4.5 do I adjust Z first layer setting?
No Idea.. S3d and Prusaslicer both have a Z offset setting.. I do it in my particular printers firmware with a M206 from the terminal..
Ok there are a few different ways of adjusting this. First, you can get a lot of adjustments in the print settings menu by setting visibility for the initial layer. To do this open Cura and go to the settings tab and scroll down to “Configure setting visibility”. Once there just check the boxes with the settings you want.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce19
There is also marlin settings that are designed for this depending on what machine you have. On a Prusa MK3 it’s as simple as holding down (or maybe double clicking) the scroll wheel and that takes you into the live Z adjust menu. This allows you to adjust the z height on the fly. It’s a very useful tool if you are trying to get first layer settings right. There is usually also a print height calibration setting which prints a test pattern and allows you to adjust z until you get the test print to look right.
Hope that helps.
Thank You When the print is ending, before I print the next print Ill look into that Z setting