Anyone have any idea how long 1L of Resin (the $60 option) will last? Any clue how many medium sized objects that would print?
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Anyone have any idea how long 1L of Resin (the $60 option) will last? Any clue how many medium sized objects that would print?
Resin cost: We are working on an all new, extremely high perfomance, low cost resin that is specially formulated for the Peachy Printer! In the past we have seen resin prices of $200/litre. Thanks to Josh Ellis and his company Maker Juice, we now have a fast acting resin that only costs $60/litre! You can also get more use out of your resin by using resin fillers. The little cube pictured above is about 2 cubic centimetres. With one litre of resin you could print approximately 500 of them, each costing around $0.12 to make. The hollow cube pictured below could be printed approximately 2000 times out of one litre of resin at a cost of about $0.02 each!
Source: http://www.peachyprinter.com/#!printer-specs/c1gk6
Hello Rainday,
most 3D programs will offer you to calculate the volume of an object, and you can usually hollow out a part or construct a fill structure that will increase stability while still saving weight.
Of course with the resin it's best practice to leave a hole to drain out excess resin, but it's manageable.
With my "regular" FFF printer I can print a lot with 1kg, as I only print small things.
On the other hand, one bulky object may use up a lot of plastic;
What are you planing on printing?
I'm very new to 3D printing, but how would there be resin in the structure with this printer design? Wouldn't the water (which would need to be drained still) displace the resin out of internal structures while printing?Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcus
Yes, but let's say you a building a bowl and you printing it upward. The bowl will fill with resine/water. It will be easy to remove, but not if you close the top too.
Yeah, but the interior will remain filled with water, which the resin is floating on top of. When the top closes off, the resin will be above the closure and the interior will be full of water.Quote:
Originally Posted by nka
If you have small enclosed spaces in your object (shorter than the depth of the floating resin) they could be completely sealed before the water displaces the resin. Then there would be uncured resin encased in the print.
I'm sure it won't be hard to stick a needle in, mid print, to leave a whole when you pull it out. Problem solved :)
yeah, you could place a needle and extract it, make a hole with a drill and let it out, etc... it's not a "big" problems IMO :)
Yes ;-) But the point was most things on thingiverse and other sites are designed as solid models, hollowing out can sace material cost :-)
Current slicing software ("slicing" = turning into layers and paths) offers a variety of infill options, including totally hollow.
Attachment 1
Image by RitchRap
Yes, I am aware of that. But similar to printing at Shapeways (or similar companies) you'll have to manually make it hollow to alow trappped resin to flow out of it- or as suggested drill a hole later.
Also printing hollow won't cut it all the time, as for complex models some parts need to be more rigid then others.
We could make wraffles with those :D
Since we won't be using any slicing software, and everything will be done directly in Blender, there is a built in modifier you can use to hollow out any manifold object. It's called Solidify. You can configure exactly how thick you want the walls to be, along with other options.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcus
It won't be too difficult to just take any Thingiverse object and make it hollow, you just have to make sure the model is manifold (e.g. closed with no holes or floating parts) and that can be done using ctrl+alt+shift+M in blender to auto-manifold things.
Well, Blender acts as a Slicer in this case ;-)
Thanks for the heads up about Solidify! Sounds great.
It has been a while since I last tinkered with Blender.
The thing about Thingiverse objects, including mine, is the sloppy 3d modeling. I got a bit careless to make an object a day, and my UP prints almost anything, even if the STL file has flaws.
But of course there's software to fix these models. I have to check the auto-manifold option in Blender... Usualy those functions have limits with sloppy models.
Another way to fix models up, that I've found, is to use the Decimate modifier in blender, basically it destroys all of your current geometry and generates a more uniformed geometry that fits the whole object with minimal changes to the overall outline. Once you do this, you may need to use Triangulate to convert N-gons back into triangles for STL use.