I am looking at possibly building something larger than a typical build container. After I print two pieces, is there a way to reheat or join the two pieces together to form a similar strength bond? Example: l + _ = L
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I am looking at possibly building something larger than a typical build container. After I print two pieces, is there a way to reheat or join the two pieces together to form a similar strength bond? Example: l + _ = L
I've done it on a Makerbot before, but that was a chain that I just kinda slid onto the plate and locked it with the current print.
Whenever we break a model, most superglue seems to work perfectly fine, you might try that.
In terms of a set way to actually melt the pieces together, I'm not sure it would be easy, if possible at all.
In the past, I've made the pieces mechanically fit together, like snaps or puzzle pieces. Glue works great for most things too, though I haven't tried it with resin yet, only with ABS and PLA.
I haven't tried this, but I suspect you could use some extra resin as glue. Apply it to the surface, then cure it with a strong UV light. I'm going to be testing a UV EEPROM eraser as a way to cure undercured prints.
I know acetone works wonders on acylic, but I haven't played with resin yet. That will be among my tests, what glue works for the resins.
How about just dipping the edge in resin, joining the pieces, and then putting it outside? Obviously the resin sticks to already-hardened resin when it hardens (that's how the Peachy builds objects) so the liquid resin between the two parts should stick to both of them. Outside you've got the sun as a big UV light source to harden it.
The best solution is an interlocking structure (dovetail joint). ABS should be gluable with acetone (I havent tried it). If the contact area is small and has long contact edges you can plastic weld the parts together by using a thin pre-extruded plastic thread an an old or covered temperature regulatable soldering iron. Also there is the possibility of using short pieces of filament as dowels. Heated nails in preprinted slightly to small holes can work too. If you glue make sure there is no lever effect possible.
I've used this for a few things that I had to print in pieces. It usually works well, but sometimes you have to adjust the size of the clips, because even though they fit together in the modeling program of your choice, they might not fit so well when printed. Usually they're too tight, I have yet to have clips be loose.Quote:
Originally Posted by mechadense
That's pretty normal for 3D printers; the output part is always a tiny bit over-size. On the Stratasys one at uni we make any tight-fitting parts 0.1mm smaller than they should be and that generally results in a nice fit.Quote:
Originally Posted by MysteryAlabaster
On the other hand, for laser cut parts we aim for a fraction oversize (ie make a tab 5.05mm to fit into a 5mm hole) since the laser cutter always makes things very slightly undersize.
acetone works wonders on abs ! bond is as strong as the plastic if you do it correctly!
x2 cadfab. for abs just solvent weld it together with acetone. its how abs pipe has been joined for years and years. its totally permanent when done. i have a model i did that was too big. i split it in two and then fit both pieces on the build plate together. a little acetone when done and its one piece. after solvent bonding anything wait 24 hours to harden fully. if its pla you can solvent weld with methylene chloride if you can find it. you can order on line in small amounts. its made by weld-on. you bond acrylic and and polycarb with the same thing. if your looking for an actual super strong adhesive for plastics then get a methyl methacrylate type adhesive. that is a permanent as well. with all these mentioned youll have substrate failure before the bond joint lets go.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:178538
Quote:
Originally Posted by mechadense
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cadfab3d@hotmail.com
Um, I think a few people here are posting not realizing this is the Peachy Printer sub-forum... The Peachy Printer doesn't use PLA or ABS... it uses resin hardened by UV light.Quote:
Originally Posted by jimc
We tested a print to see if acetone dissolves it, and no it doesn't (at least in the time that a similar abs piece did)Quote:
Originally Posted by Cramill
I don't know if newly cured resin will completely "glue" to an old print though
haha yes i didnt notice the forum it was in. in any case methylene chloride still may work as thats super strong solvent but with a crosslinked resin like the peachy would use then a methyl methacrylate type adhesive would bond any of the parts and not fail. here is one example...
http://www.extremeadhesives.com
and another...
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...astic+Adhesive
the adhesive used to bond corian countertops is the same type and comes in colors so if you have a cabinet shop nearby that does that kind of work then they would have it or could get it.