PLEASE! I need help with my Ender 3.

After weeks of looking at youtube and searching google for my problem i cant find anything to fix it.

What im useing

• Ender-3
• PLA 1.75mm 200C
• Glassbed 70C
• Steel nozzle 0.4
• To make the print stick i use Gagigoo 3D printing Pen
• Softwear Cura, with the recomended profile for a 0.4

What i get after weeks of bed leveling, buying more stuff thinking it will fix my problem is headaches, frustration and failed prints.

I have tryed the papper bed leveling so many times i lost count. Then i tryed bed leveling with gcode and print but the print curves up and sticks to the nozzle and tangled into a mess. Also if for some miracle it sticks to the bed it becomes a thin line with blobs on it and is barely holding on to the bed before the nozzle comes back and scopes it up.

I recently printed (Well tried to) and the first layer didn't go well. As it continued i could hear cracking and snapping sounds comming from it. After a short while it left the bed and started to travel with the nozzle.


Attachment 12346Attachment 12347

Please help me i cant get it to work whatever i do.

how fast are you printing your first layer ?

And as the gagigoo doesn't seem to be working - go get some blue painters tape.
The only problem with blue tape is sometimes getting it off :-)

But whatver the gagigoo is - never heard of it, I'd say it doesn't work :-)

Thanks for replying

Cura tells me
Print speed 60
Travel speed 120
Initial layer speed 30
Skirt/Brim speed 30
Travel acceleration 5000

initial layer speed is pretty fast. try knocking it down to 10

I set it at 10 and it seemed like it got further before the plastic had enough of the nozzles work and wanted to leave the bed (I suspect that the plastic keept rising and started getting contact with the nozzle).

When printing it seems like it makes a small line and then hurls the rest into a hill and start all over from there.
[Like this __o__o__o__o__o__o]
I have no ide why. Do i need to increase the flow? Is the fan cooling it too fast?
Flow 100.
Fan speed 100%. Regular/Maximum fan speed threshold 10s.

Also goo buts that new. (Haven't goten this far)

Attachment 12350Attachment 12351Attachment 12352

Hello;

I had a problem similar to yours. search everywhere could not locate it.
Reset the printer to factory defaults using the M502-Factory Reset followed by M500-Save Settings.
Sending G-Code requires a terminal I have used Pronter Face, Cura and Octoprint connected via Ethernet.

Then I finally noticed that somehow the Cura filament diamenter was set to 3.00mm.
On other occasions found the deformed Teflon tube in the throat causes the same defected prints.

Here is the results of my print.

Attachment 12353

You can see it has the same as yours.
Now this could have happened many ways, in my case is was a filament diameter setting of 3.00mm when I use 1.75mm filament.

Your problem could occurs because of under extrusion.
This could be because the filament is hanging up on its travel the the nozzle, causing under-extrusion.
It could be that the nozzle is larger that .4mm, this could be tested by simply printing a single wrap skirt and measuring the filament diameter.
This can vary between .4 ~ .48mm approximately, depending on your layer and other settings.

I use Cura 15.04.6 because of it's simplicity attached are my Hictop Profiles that you can examine.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Madda

I have no ide why. Do i need to increase the flow? Is the fan cooling it too fast?
Flow 100.
Fan speed 100%. Regular/Maximum fan speed threshold 10s.

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How are your prints working now.

I see that your fan is running 100%.
I have never have a parts cooling fan running more than about 50%.

Sorry i have been busy with the holiyday.


I tried https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EfWVUJjBdA. After i painted the bed, so the print would stick and it started out great but some lines were thin and evantely stuck to the nozzle.

I tried paint a boat and this was the results before i had to stop the printer. The first layer was great but as soon as it sped up it became like the pic below.

Also it looks like the lines don't merge on the first layer to make a solid surface.
Attachment 12416Attachment 12417Attachment 12418Attachment 12419Attachment 12420

Roberts_Clif can you explain the names of your files for example "Hictop 1.75 Profiles 30" what dose the last nummber stand for?

Thanks for wanting to help me.

I tried to put in your profile but cura could not open it "Hictop 1.75 Profiles 30". I tried https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KD7MigGaKFw but got thies result.

Attachment 12517Attachment 12518Attachment 12519
I dont know if its normal but the nozzle went outside the print by 1in (2cm) and printed above making rings in the air what it looked like. I dont know if its ignoring layers, it's the worng layer size or not enough PLA comming through

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Madda

Roberts_Clif can you explain the names of your files for example "Hictop 1.75 Profiles 30" what dose the last number stand for?

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I have profiles from 05 - 30 this is the layer height.

What layer height are you using.

I see you have

• Ender-3
• PLA 1.75mm 200C
• Glassbed 70C
• Steel nozzle 0.4

Im using Coarse - 0.4mm.

It's the same size as the nozzle isn't that what's it's for?
As it prints the first layer shouldnt the PLA stick together creating a solid surface?

How do i install your files btw? Cura seams to not like them. Should i put them in manualy?

NO!


You can only print about 80% the nozzle size for layer height. This would be .4 * 80% = .32mm Max Layer Height.
I normally print between .2 - .28 layer Heights unless I want a really fine print then I print with a layer Height of .06 - .15

I don't know how to import your profiles into cura yet.

So i used the profile that i hope got attached to this post. Attachment 12520

Here are the results before it let go of he bed (Is it becuase the gaps?).
Attachment 12521Attachment 12522Attachment 12523Attachment 12524
I can see gaps on the print and the first layer did not become a "Solid" layer (I can see each thread).
I think the gaps are visible in the second pic where the light comes through.

It's not the full print but it got further then last time :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Roberts_Clif

NO!


You can only print about 80% the nozzle size for layer height. This would be .4 * 80% = .32mm Max Layer Height.
I normally print between .2 - .28 layer Heights unless I want a really fine print then I print with a layer Height of .06 - .15

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thats some nice information. I bought a ender 3 to and try to find more information about how to improve my Print results. Where can i find such information you ggave here like the basics for settings? :D

My first prints are pretty good sofar.

Bottom top are good also 90 degree sides are fine.

Most curves are bit scratchy/line`y - any idea how to improve it or what may be wrong?

Here some pics (red arrow - scratchy)


https://i.imgur.com/V7iEaPX.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/V7iEaPX.jpg

Yes i also have problems using import function on cura.. maybe becausse i use version 3.6.0

Quote:

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Originally Posted by OwiHH

Yes i also have problems using import function on Cura.. maybe because i use version 3.6.0

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Want my Cura Profiles for Hictop 3DP11/12

It appears you are getting under extrusion, your filament maybe getting tangled or you may have a partially clogged extruder.

Start a new thread help will arrive.

I have Ender 3 predecessors the 3DP11 and 3DP12, Almost no one was there for me to help weed thru all the learning process.
Then I came across these video's.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-2d3tjvMPA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cb_CXRrdv3I
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O5S8lFf15UY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTtfS0-CVl0

This is when I decided to spend my time helping those like yourself get there 3D Printers working correctly.

I have helped numerous New 3D Printer Owners get there new 3D Printers working correctly.
I have spend hours modifying there incorrectly configured firmware finding the flaws and getting there 3D Printing working in top order.

Want help Post your own thread we will find you, this thread is for helping Madda

Do i have underextrusion?

Can you tell me how to install your cura profile there are ".ini" files and cura only likes ".Curaprofile".

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Madda

Do i have underextrusion?

Can you tell me how to install your cura profile there are ".ini" files and cura only likes ".Curaprofile".

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Cura uses both the older versions use .ini the newer versions use .Curaprofile
You can look at what I have and adjust what you need and create your own specific profiles.
The number is for layer height.

Hey madda - i found this to be very helpfull getting some knowledge about the settings.

profile for ender 3:

http://www.emcu.eu/configure-ultimaker-cura-software-for-use-the-creality-3d-printer-model-ender-3/


Turtorial Cura:

https://all3dp.com/1/cura-tutorial-s...licer-cura-3d/

Quote:

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Originally Posted by OwiHH

Hey madda - i found this to be very helpfull getting some knowledge about the settings.

profile for ender 3:

http://www.emcu.eu/configure-ultimaker-cura-software-for-use-the-creality-3d-printer-model-ender-3/


Turtorial Cura:

https://all3dp.com/1/cura-tutorial-s...licer-cura-3d/

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Thank you for the tips. There are a lot of profiles out there and i'm beginning to believe that i have hardware problem or something.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Roberts_Clif

Cura uses both the older versions use .ini the newer versions use .Curaprofile
Have you can look at what I have and adjust what you need and create your own specific profiles.
The number is for layer height.

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Alright could you give me a recommendation to make the print stick to the glass bed. It wont stay put!

Have never printed on Glass, though believe it would be similar as any other surface.

They say to use Elmer's glue sticks for best adhesion. Can you post a picture of what your failed model starts looks like.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Roberts_Clif

Can you post a picture of what your failed model starts looks like.

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Attachment 12586Attachment 12587
Didn't get very far this time. Also shouldn't it be a solid layer?
looks like the tread won't connect with each other.

Quote:

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Alright could you give me a recommendation to make the print stick to the glass bed. It wont stay put!

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Also heat up the glass up to 65 manual befor starting printing first layers. After it you can reduce to 55 - 60. Worked good for me.

Use "Brim" layer option for first layer also helps for small parts sticking to the bed.

-I put something behind the spring tightening it.
-Then i raised the bed a bit after watching this guys first layer that resembeld mine https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AaF28dnDgKA (Need to raise it just a bit more) and
tried "Hictop Blue - .20.curaprofile" that i got from you.
-It stuck onto the bed the entire print so it finished. But i could hear the nozzle going through and breaking some of the infill when it crossed.
Attachment 12591Attachment 12592Attachment 12593Attachment 12594
It's a massive improvement compared to the others. But it's not flat and is rough wrinkles on the side.
The entire boat is very roughly made if that makes sense.
Is it under extrution?

What are you using for Nozzle and Bed temperature.
What print speed percent is Cura set to.

What you are telling me is that you may have too low nozzle temp or the popping sound could be moisture in the filament.

Quote:

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What are you using for Nozzle and Bed temperature.

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Default printing temp 205C
printing temp 198C
printing temp Initial layer 198C
Initial printing temp 188C
Final printing temp 183C
Default build printing temp 70C
build printing temp 50C
build printing temp Initial layer 50C

Quote:

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What print speed percent is Cura set to.

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(I cant find it, but i found these)
Print speed 60mm/s
Initial layer print speed 10mm/s
Overhanging wall speed 100%

Quote:

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The popping sound could be moisture in the filament

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Shit...Do i have to replace it?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Madda

Shit...Do i have to replace it?

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I do not know was only making a statement, Have you tried to print a temperature tower.

Do not like the one I selected More here

Your temperature settings look to be the same as what is being used in my 3DP11/12 though all 3D Printers do not Print using the exact same temperatures.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Roberts_Clif

I do not know was only making a statement, Have you tried to print a temperature tower

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I printed the tower but it didn't finish.
Attachment 12611Attachment 12612Attachment 12613
Thefirst layer looks great now.

It is OK.
That it did not finish you got good results you may want to search and print a new tower with higher printer temps.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Roberts_Clif

It is OK.
That it did not finish you got good results you may want to search and print a new tower with higher printer temps.

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Well here it is, looks like 205C and higher gave good results.

Attachment 12621Attachment 12622

Excellent!!!


Any other Questions.

Well i tried to print a tension fix twise (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3066664) but it came out like this.

Attachment 12623
What am i doing wrong the heat tower went well. Why won't these.

Wat temp was this printed at? Based on your heat tower, 215-220 seems to be your sweet spot (maybe a tad higher) - at least for that filament. Have you tried a different roll of filament? I print some PLA filament at 215 and some as high as 230 on my Ender 3, depending on brand. The last pic you posted looks like a cold print to me. Is the nozzle hitting the print?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Madda

Well i tried to print a tension fix twise (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3066664) but it came out like this.

Attachment 12623
What am i doing wrong the heat tower went well. Why won't these.

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I can not explain why the Temp Tower came out so well and the Next print the Extruder Tension fix so bad.

Post the setting you used on the tension fix model

After i changed my temperature to 225C (Thanks BigDenver for pointing that out).
My prints became like this.
Attachment 12648Attachment 12649Attachment 12650

How come different temperatures are needed for different filament, when the temperature for the filament is on the spool?

However THANK YOU SO MUCH Roberts_clif for sticking around and helping me :).

the tempareture on the spool is usually given as quite a large spread.
usually 200 -240 for pla.
I have never bought a spool of pla that goes as low as 180-190.
So why people try and print pla at these temperatures, I have no idea.

225 is high, I usually use somewhere between 200-220.

And yes the colour and brand of pla make a lot of difference.

I find that black pla prints well at the lowest temp. White and coloured pla tend to print at higher temps.

It also depends on how your printer works. Direct drive will get away with lower temps than bowden systems.
Also the quality of your heater and the ability of the thermistor and board to keep the temp stable will make a difference.

There is currently NO standardisation for 3d printer filaments.
Different producers use different additives and don't have any legal requirement to declare them.

I'm not colour focussed, so I tedn to use whatever make and colour filament gives me best results - spray paint is cheaper than filament if people want to change the colour.

Hands down the best filament I've ever used if flashforge's red.
It's a semi-translucent filament, but just fabulous to work with and seriously tough.

Printed a little plastic key for paper towel holders recently. just a flat piece of plastic with a cutout. 1.5mm thick.
The flashforge red priunted it out bang on specification.
As the original was white I switched to esun white filament.
Kept all the settinsg the same and used the same stl.
The white ones are between 0.1 and 0.3 mm thicker than the red one.
I have no idea why.

3d printing is currently as much an art as a science. Until we get some kind of legislation to standardise filament manaufactur, that's how it's going to stay.

When I stated Printing PLA two years ago I was printing at 196C using this filament.


I print it at 200-204C this was after having to change the larger Hot-end heater block with a smaller Heater Block.
I cold not find the larger heater blocks, and purchased 10 of the smaller, so will have these for a while.

Attachment 12662

I also Have some ABS that I started printing ABS in 2018 an is has a lower than normal printing temperature.
This is printed at 228C with really good results as shown in the image below...

Attachment 12663

Same Filament did not have an image of model using the ABS Silver.
It amazed me as the ABS actually bridged better than the PLA

Attachment 12664