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I bought a glass bed from Flashforge to go with my Creator Pro. It didn't come with any instructions on how to install it, nor any double stick tape that I might use to stick it to the metal base. Are there some good instructions out there on what I need to do to install this thing?
I ordered some 400mm x 205mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink off of amazon and it works great. I just cut it into strips and it holds the glass in place.
Here is the link.
http://www.amazon.com/400mm-205mm-Si...ilpage_o01_s00
Another vote for using .5mm thermal padding. Holds the glass secure while keeping it removable, transfers heat well, and there's no clips to come lose or get hit by your extruder.
Will you guys share a photo of how much of the thermal padding you use so the heat will still transfer to the glass? Thanks!
I will try to post a picture wen I get home from work. I will say I have tried it a few ways. I have tried it 2 ways. The first time I cut the sheet to to fit the whole bed and the heat transfered with no problem. Then when the glass chipped on me and I replaced it, The second sheet of glass I cut the padding into 4 1in x 6in strips and left a space in between each strip and there was no difference in the two ways I did it. Both ways transfered the heat fine.
Well I was going to post an image but for some reason the forum will not let me post it. I have sized it down to 200x87 and it is only 24KB. I tried both ways as a file and with a url.
I use five 1.75" square pads, one on each corner and one in the middle. Works great, although I haven't experimented to see if I can get away with less.
Found this pic online, something like this works well. Although I think you could get away with pads twice as big and only use 5 of them total.
http://3dprinterwiki.info/wp-content...eckerboard.jpg
What do you guys use to help ABS stick to glass?
My issue is that ABS sticks too well to the plastic surface that comes with my QIDI and my metal bed has high points in the middle and low points in front right and rear left corners. I am looking for a solution where I can easily remove a "flat" bed without having to re-level constantly. Thanks!
I use Aqua Net extra super hold hair spray. I spray in on to a paper towel or a lent free cloth and wipe it on the glass.Quote:
Originally Posted by AmbientG
Binder clips on bare aluminum plate. :-) Easy.
I use the same, only I just take the glass out and spray it directly on the glass.Quote:
Originally Posted by rforeman
hairspray holds really well while the plate is still hot (I once pulled out chunks of glass trying to forcefully remove a part before it had cooled).
Once cool the part comes off easily, often removing itself.
As I am looking to order some glass build plates, I had a few questions:
• Do you guys think that a 1/8" borosilicate glass will be thick enough?
• What do you use to block the Z sensor?
• Do you have to re-level every time you remove the glass from the .5mm thermal padding and install another?
Thanks!
as long as your total bed thickness is less than about 9mm - you don't need to do anything to the z-sensor. The adjustment springs and screws easily cover that thickness of plate.
Basically you have to add something really thick to actually need any kind of z-axist sensor adjustment.
My current bed consists of the heatbed, original 3mm aluminium plate, some double sided carpet tape, an extra (flat) 3mm aluminium plate with 1mm of printbite stuck on top of that.
Probably about 8mm in total.
I have no problem adjusting for bed calibration and I did recently print a viking axe head that was approx 1mm short of the printers stated maximum z height.
So, no you don't need a z-axis adjuster, and most likely, neither do most of the people who have fitted them :-)
See answers in redQuote:
Originally Posted by AmbientG