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what may be the cuase of one side (the one facing out) ending up greate....and the other turning up gloosy with warps and gigged liles?
:confused:
PLA
makerware
bed 50c
ext 210c
speed 70/100
active cooling
0.15mm
and yes...my camera is derty as S***T :p
the crap side is most likely where the slicer ends and starts the layers.
Dependig on the slicer you can set random start points.
Also maybe drop your printing temp to 200-205 to cut down on ooze.
will do...thanxx
but the warping is in a few spots on the sides and layer "bolges" are where the infill "meeting" the shell
How many shells are you using? I always use at least 2 sometimes 3.Quote:
Originally Posted by ARTISAN
2 shells...
but its only in the side that face to the spools
Even tho the first layer looks good, to me it looks like the back of your bed is too high, so what's happening is the layers are being put down too close to eachother - and as that happens during the print, the layers rise and rise and you eventually lift off the bed - it's not the bed being too low and the layers not fitting together - if that was the case you would get alot more gaps - this is layer rise, which yeah is basically down to the bed level being not perfect.Quote:
Originally Posted by ARTISAN
Do some test cylinders, tall ones, like 10cm high - you know its the back of your bed, you already figured that out.
Don't be afraid to adjust the bed WHILE it is printing - this is how I fine tune my printer. It took me about 5 fine tuning sessions, while it was printing (AS SOON as you start to see the problem occur - slightly loosen off the back screws while its printing - its a test print, you don't care about the inconsitency - but you want to tune it so the layers from front to back are the same - exactly the same. Small objects you won't notice it on, but large ones as you can see it's more prevalent.
The starting stitch as curious mentioned, yes that can cause a slight line vertically in your prints, but it won't cause the thing to rise like that, as I said the layers are being put down too close to eachother - I would let the slack off the back 2 screws gently during a test print (at least as high as the print you are trying to get right)
Look at this layering on a flashforge, printed in wood, this took about 5 tuning sessions, 5 test prints of cubes and cylinders, for this one it was cylinders... I printed 9 x 2cm(w)x10cm(H) cylinders, placed in equal places on the hotbed (corners, sides, middle) when they all printer perfectly, I did the lamp in wood at 0.15.. (and you can see my darker starting stitch inside the lamp head, random staring points or "nearest" starting points CAN be good, but sometimes not so good, it depends on what you are printing. Random starting points make for a quicker print, but can have more spider webbing mess and blobs left behind when printing as it's constantly moving and retracting more than it normally would.
Attachment 9114
soo...after leveling...and then leveling again...and then agaaain
i jump to the deep waters and printed somthing big!!
printed that thing
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:947594
went on (allmost) maximum hight 140mm
ther was a fail...end up 130.66mm...it had a fail that the filamnt gut tagle in the spool
but it is 130.66 all over.! :))
ther are small warping in few places..but they are scattered in some places so im not sure wich is in the back
but i can live with them...for now (only to 3 day printing)
cheers to you'll!!
Attachment 9116
I have found maximum height I try to print on the Flashforge is no more than 14.5cm.Quote:
Originally Posted by ARTISAN
The machine says 15cm, but I have never ever been able to print at maximum height - the printer slows down so dramatically that it makes a mess of the last few layers, so I try and keep max to 13-14cm.
Sometimes you cannot get it completely perfect perfect, so please for your sanity sake don't try and chase down the perfect print and spend all your time on that. I see alot of people here get 1 printer and spend months calibrating and fine tuning it - trying to make it print like a $4000 ultimaker 2, but there is a pretty simple fact you can't ignore, this cost you a 1/4 of that price, so you can't expect it to be absolutely perfect without doing some serious work - luckily you have alot of support from people here that have done just that, so would be a good idea to go through all the threads in here.
Threaded rods can be slightly bent, not much you can do about that unless you replace them - and you won't know if it's bent until you start doing gigantic prints that take up the entire volume of the print bed - and even then they are not so bad. Once you start building things in seperate printed pieces, you are gluing them together, using putty etc - any print issues you are going to sand and fill anyway.
Sure, if they are small parts that are never to be painted or assembled and they have to look good as a raw print, then yeah I would spend some time getting it right, but for now have fun with your printer, figure out how fast you can go and what that does to the quality.
Also please, use Makerware http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...load-%28x64%29
If I had used Simplify3D when I first got my printer, I would have gotten nowhere. It takes a very long time to get it setup to do what makerware will do for you automatically. YES S3D has alot of things you can't do in makerware, but worry about those things later, it's a longer process, more complex and I really do not think the print quality on S3D is any better than what I can get out of makerware - just with less features to play with.
You can get something called proftweak for Makerware which gives you more options, but on my last PC build, I neglected to install it and use makerware bare, and really it does the job fine on my flashforge.
well...after some more levelling...
i think i gut it just right
Attachment 9119
but the buttom layers is a bit stringi
Attachment 9120
im slicing with:MakerWare_Bundle_of_Awesome_2.4.1.24_x64.exe
tryed the latest version but it didnt done a good job for me
my OCD forcing me to use S3D..
i MUST tweak..!!!
i cant help it!!!!
:cool:
Ok - if your bottom level is stringy a little bit, this can be from a raft possibly?
I print without raft, so I get much smoother finish - the machine Gcode will actually change the bed level when you select raft - no amount of bed leveling will get that perfect, in fact if I do use a raft, I push the bed upward when it does the first base layer so it is closer to the raft and is not stringy, but after doing this for years the back arms of my printer cracked, so I don't recommend it.
Try printing without raft and see what I mean, it should be perfect flat when doing the very first layer. I assume is PLA you are printing with?
YOU KNOW IT...YOU KNOW IT!!
;):D
pla and raft...
will try to go with out one...
im using the FF sticker that came with it glued to the bad
Hello My $0.02: The issue may be due to poor attachment of the PLA to the printer bed in the area where the curling appears. Attachment issues can be due to bed/material temperatures & print speeds, bed surface preparation and/or leveling. Since one side looks good, I am guessing the issue is bed leveling. If the bed is not level, the material may not attach properly at the low spot. The unattached material will cool at a different rate than the attached material resulting in the curled edges shown in your images. One way to test this would be to flip the object 180 degrees along the x axis and see if the issue switches sides. Simplify 3D has some a nice Quality Guide on their site which can be very helpful: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/
If you end up getting tired of trying to tweak it to print as well as makerware was doing by default, well.. you know what to do.Quote:
Originally Posted by antoniumtech