Question about Quality of Prints

Hey there,

I just found out about this printer today, and I have to say that I am amazed by the quality of the prints that I have seen from it. I was wondering how well it would do with D&D Style Miniatures? I am gonna put a link at the bottom of this to give you an idea of what I mean, but I was wondering if anyone had any experience with this size and detail level. I am seriously considering getting a 3D Printer, and it seems like this one would be the absolute best way to go for what I would need, and I am just hoping that it would be able to produce something like this. Please let me know what you guys think.

https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineSto...1/latest/77001

I cant answer your question, but I have something else you might be interrested in, this guy has apparently moddeled the entire monsters manuel and 3d printed it http://imgur.com/a/57Ypa you can find some discussions about the prints and a link to a dropbox folder with alle the stl's for printing posted by the created in this reddit thread https://www.reddit.com/r/minipaintin..._dungeons_and/
and incase you are lazy here's the dropbox link
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/kzw6vw1y6...vRPI2re1a?dl=0

Thanks for that. I guess my main question is what resolution will this print at? Is it at like .1mm or more or less? I am just wondering to see if this is the printer I would want to get, or if I should get something else like the Form 1+ that does down to 25 microns. I hope that doesn't make anyone here angry...

Hey Forgotten_Avatar,

The Peachy Printer has a great level of detail but less accuracy.
Detail means, you will probably see all the small features of the 3D-model, as the resolution of the Peachy theoretically is really good (But you will need a quiet environment).
"Bad" accuracy means prints won't come out scaled perfectly. They might warp, skew, etc... (Depends on calibration)

This might be the better combination for you, as you don't need perfectly sized prints, but good looking ones.
Also you should remember that the Peachy isn't a printer made for easiest useability but for hackability so if you want to build it yourself then the peachy is exactly what you want.

Greetings,
quertz

Thank quertz,

That really does help me with deciding. I have one final question, do you think that it would be able to do something of this detail level?

https://www.reapermini.com/OnlineSto...3/latest/77123

Thanks for all your help, and I hope to hear from you guys soon.

Hey Forgotten_Avatar,

you might want to have a look at this older update.
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects.../posts/1085300
Please remember that the peachy guys show the prints in a light that makes flaws as visible as possible,
plus this is not the latest version so this is the lower end for the quality you can expect from a well calibrated printer

Greetings,
quertz

Thank you. Once I am able to purchase one, I will deffentally going to do that. Thank you so much for all the info on it.

Hi!

I wonder if the prints are solid, can you make gears with it?
Like those found in LEGO packages.

BR

Doc

it should be possible to create a solid print, OR if you are in a hurry a sealed shell of a print and then expose it ti uv/sunlight till it is solid

Just a question on the 'sealed shell and cure later' suggestion... For that to work, you need a closed bottom and top, so the resin actually gets trapped, and no salt water can come in to displace the resin...
In the Cura settings thread (http://peachyprinter.ipbhost.com/ind...-printer-cura/) it says to print without a bottom, and then proceeds to suggest tilting the model, so the bottom gets printed...
I assume that for the sealed shell suggestion, you *would* want to print the bottom (and I am aware that would require a sufficiently slow drip that it actually can print that entire bottom...), correct?

CescoAiel
altho you are technically correct there is also an easier faster way..
For example if you wanted to print a solid cylinder you could:
1 Print it tilted without a bottom so that salt water dose get into the cylinder while printing,
2 let the top wall of the cylinder print
3 when the print is done remove it from the printer flip it over and fill it with uv resin or epoxy or plaster of pairs.

hope that makes sense ... only Iv never done a video showing this ... perhaps I should.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rylangrayston

CescoAiel
altho you are technically correct there is also an easier faster way..
For example if you wanted to print a solid cylinder you could:
1 Print it tilted without a bottom so that salt water dose get into the cylinder while printing,
2 let the top wall of the cylinder print
3 when the print is done remove it from the printer flip it over and fill it with uv resin or epoxy or plaster of pairs.

hope that makes sense ... only Iv never done a video showing this ... perhaps I should.

---

Thanks Rylan, but for my understanding....
1) When I print it open-bottom, it doesn't need to be tilted per sé at al, right? (Since the water will be entering through the open botttom anyway)
2) [Assuming resin viscosity is low enough for it to allow it to flow in at the rise-rate:] Is it really any faster whether one prints the shell open bottom, and fills it with resin later *or* whether one prints the shell with a closed bottom and lets the resin fill it up as it rises during printing? (It still needs to print the same shell, and - especially when tilted - there should not be a lot of difference whether it does or does not include that bottom...)

I am very tempted to buy a PP, but just trying to understand it all, so I can figure out whether it will do (95% of) what I want it to do! Having the possibility to control a pump would be great, because then you can control the rise rate, and I am already thinking of (and experimenting a bit with) possibilities to do a low-cost peristaltic pump...

If the software and hardware included basic support for that feature from the get-go (i.e. 2 pins for controlling the pump and a setting to steer those pins by both # of pulses *and* timing per pulse and pulse interval), one could have a very simple control of many a pump model...

http://3dprintboard.com/attachment.p...8&d=1458727705
EDIT: Made a mockup for clarity...

* With this setup one could both do a single pulse of ex. 5s to control a simple DC motor driven pump, or use a simple pulse-to-step converter board to drive a stepper motor pump, or anything in between...
** Any more than that would be much easier to implement, as the basic control logic would be there already, so the modders need only modify the steering code bit!