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My item keeps coming up distorted where the object is either more narrow on the bottom or the top. My X,Y,Z settings are set 1:1. The plastic looks a little "melty" on the tapered end. I'm looking for troubleshooting suggestions.
Print head setting 220c
print bed setting 120c
Printer: Creator Pro FlashForge
filament used; ABS - hatchbox 1.75mm
thx!
Print two instead of one. This gives the layer you deposited on the left time to cool while you print one on the right.
pictures ?
Davo nailed it. Your hot end is spending to much time on a small area of the printing causing distortions.Quote:
Originally Posted by Davo
This is the same object printed two separate ways. The side facing down always comes out tapered. I should also add that I'm using Simplify3D to position the object on the print bed. They have a large number of settings which I'm still figuring out. I set it up for "print quality high" and let the system auto configure the settings. Given the size of my objects I am not able to just "print two". If it's a small part or large part I get the same taper affect:
Attachment 8636
First set your heatbed to 95-100 instead of 120. 120 is way over the glass transition point of abs (around 105).
I'm also having trouble keeping things to stick to the print bed. Will a lower temp make it less "sticky"?
That is a problem that is poorly solved by increasing the temperature. It will be either the levelling of the bed (do this very very well) or the bed+'glue' combo. I have excellent results with hairspray (or 3DLac) on glass. What do you use as bed?
I tried lowering the bed temp from 120 to 100 and just now finished printing my first piece... it came out "awesome". Thanks for the input here. No more tapperQuote:
Originally Posted by Alibert
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alibert
I'm using kapon tape over a piece of glass cut to the size of the bed. Any hairspray will do?
Usually. Just buy the super-hurricane-proof-fixating type. The more 'plastic helmet' the hair looks after application, the better it will bond. You will need to let the heatbed cool before you can take the part off.
Before you sent this I had already picked up some generic extra hold hair spray from Walmart... "Equat" store brand for $3.01 ... Worked perfect.... prints are no longer distorted and everything sticks to the bed like it should.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alibert
I have 2 3d printers and every thing works heating, melting, and the plate heats, but as it get's to the point to start printing it goes to the home corner and stops and starts making a loud noise, if I leave it the noise stops and the head tries to go to the start point but doesn't get there it starts to zig zag and just move around a little at which time I stop it. I have tried every thing I know to get it to work but even my other printer is doing the same thing????? Any help ????? Thanks Ron.
Seems to me a clue is that they are both doing the same thing. I suspect maybe it's the Gcode you loaded on them from your computer is corrupted. My suggestion is to try something different with the software on your computer that creates that code. I used 3D systems software. It isn't perfect but it's way better then the program that came with my printer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronald9
Quote:
Originally Posted by PrintGuy
Where do you get the 3d systems software??? Thanks Ron
I have tried the makerbot software as well and the same happened.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronald9
3dsystems.com
Be aware, with this software the default print bed heat is set too high. Make sure u lower the heat. Check the previous remarks in this thread.
Also, if there is a slot you can load the gcode directly to your printer and not from your PC then try that. Come to think of it my printer acted kinda like yours when I tried to print from my USB cable connected to my computer.
Thanks I'll try the software and also try to print from the sd card.Quote:
Originally Posted by PrintGuy