Printable View
I remove my nozzles, and was about to replace my PTFE tubing inside. but I notice the heater-block is loose from the cylinder which I guess it's attached to somehow.
I can't figure out how its held in place?
Added picture for better explanation.Attachment 7556
The Nozzle is what tightens up that assembly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stigern
The nozzle screws in until it hits the tube (cylinder),
preventing Both from turning in the block.
The Block should be slightly loose on tube until the nozzle is installed.
So, how far the tube is screwed into block controls how far the nozzle will screw into block,
before they touch.
Both seated together (touching) prevents any filament getting into threads of tube and nozzle.
It is better to fully tighten the thermal tube into the block. This isn't how they ship but it just works better that way. Then you tighten the nozzle to the block/tube assembly. It insures a tight seal agains the tube instead of the tube being loose and the nozzle bottoming out on the bottom of the heater block.
The nozzle will hang down a little further after doing this so be sure to tighten your leveling nuts before trying to level the bed again.
Yes, that can help keep block aligned but Some tubes have threads their full length, not just at bottom end.Quote:
Originally Posted by jfkansas
So if you have that type, you can Not first tighten tube into block.
And first tightening in the tube Greatly changes the nozzle height,
if you have the non-full thread type . :(
Which requires changing position of everything.
.Attachment 7557
Click picture for larger view:
Note: the full-thread type are designed so set-screw fits into the area with no threads
with makes them more stable and will not slip up&down
I reckon the waist is part of the thermal barrier, the set screw tightens against the threads. If your set screw is in the waist then you have it upside down.
It works Great 'up-side-down' !Quote:
Originally Posted by Mjolinor
Try it, you will Like it ! ;)
I really think that's the way it was designed, for set-screw to go in waist.
Well 3d printing is certainly still in the "suck it and see" arena so whatever works is good. :)
I am sure that sometime in the future a law will be enforced making it illegal to do it one way or the other so people don't have to think about the consequences but for now, at least, we get to decide. :)
lol ;) ! ! ! Freedom ! ! ! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by mjolinor
Is that how the CTC is? Last I checked this is the FlashForge forum and for the past 1.5 years all of their thermal tubes are smooth. So that is what I am referring to... This also covers all MonoPrice, Wanhao, MicroCenter PowerSpec, Dremel, Flashforge Dreamer and Creator Pro, etc... I was pretty sure the CTC had the same style as the others but maybe not. In the case of a threaded thermal barrier you still don't want to tighten the nozzle all the way into the block. You should tighten the nozzle into the block then unscrew it 1/2 turn, then tighten the threaded thermal barrier to the nozzle. Then with the hot end installed, heat it up and snug up the nozzle a little more.
Quote:
Originally Posted by EagleSeven
I think the all-thread tube would be considered a Up-grade design.
I changed to them when I saw that they would be easier to position than the old design.
On another 3D forum website several said they had changed to that type, so I got some also.
They are available at eBay.
I think the newer model CTCs come with that type but not sure how many new makes and models do.
I agree completely on the installation procedure.
Fixed it, thanks!
Tho I remove the second extruder, as I havent used dual printing. Less weight to drag around :)
Didn't want to hassle with positioning the extruders, seems like it's difficult to get perfect height on both.
Great ! ! !Quote:
Originally Posted by Stigern
Ah, now you have some good Replacement Parts, if you ever Need them ! LOL ;)
yup!
Also after around 500 hours printing the PTFE tube was very bad. Actually had the shape of the nozzle, and was black...
I went from smooth to fully threaded having failed completely to get the non-threaded part out of the aluminium bar. The threaded ones do not stick.
that's a really clean heat block :-)
Mine tend to have bits of plastic all over them.
I found that when the extruder Temp was too High the filament could BoilQuote:
Originally Posted by curious aardvark
and get on outside of nozzle and block.
That's when I discovered that nozzles were getting Hotter than indicated at printer's display.
And used digital thermometer to get Actual Temps at nozzles.
(averaged about 15 C error)
Then lowered setting for correct temp.
I'm not saying you are having same problem but someone out there may have that problem ?
It seems that many people set and leave the temp Way too High anyway ! :(
I had this same problem with mine when I pulled the extruder tip to clear a clog. The whole block shifted and because loose on the shaft it was screwed in to and returning it to its normal position didnt tighten it any.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stigern
So right or wrong, I removed the set screw and pulled the whole shaft out and tightened that into the heating block all the way using a pair of needle nose pliers. From there, I used an adjustable wrench to hold the block while I used a socket to reinstall the extruder tip.
Then I put shaft/heater block back to where I thought it was and tightened the set screw. Then I just re-leveled the bed and it prints good now.
I also pulled my 2nd stepper motor off mine, too. I left the extruder and heat block installed because I was too lazy to pull the wires out of the loom. I also redirected the other fan to blow on the working extruder, too.
Like you, I figured less weight would lead to longer lifetimes on the belts and wearable parts.
Less weight also means prettier prints. Less moving mass means less backlash around the corners. So you can go faster (and turn up your acceleration) and still get a smooth finish. Or so I've heard.
Could this explain why my Creator gets prettier prints than my Creator Pro?Quote:
Originally Posted by warkmal