-
Simplify3D settings?
I recently purchased Simplify3D to use with my PowerSpec3D Pro and not having much luck in getting it to create files that print well. I've used MakerBot software in the past and the x3g files print without any issues so I don't think it's my printer.
A specific example of a file I've been trying to print is this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:289650.
Here's a photo I've taken of two print pieces I created: https://www.flickr.com/photos/102012...posted-public/.
The white version is created using MakerBot software. The black version is created using Simplify3D (I couldn't even remove the piece from the raft since it was really a bunch of unattached pieces). Any ideas what settings I should be using to get his looking more like the white piece?
Finally, here's the link to the factory file to see what settings I'm currently using (if that helps): https://www.dropbox.com/sh/59jpm8d1p...2xFTUiWZa?dl=0
Thanks in advance.
-
you need to look at your temp and layer settings.
For something like that, which is essentially just a lot of close together joined up thin walls. You need the temp as low as practical. And probably 0% infill with 2 layers all round.
And print it slowly.
You using abs or pla ?
Also I wouldn't use a raft. Probably break when you tried to peel it off.
If I get a a chance I'll print a piece to see how it works on mine.
-
I'm using PLA. I know it's not a 1-to-1 comparison, but with the MakerBot software, I'm using a raft, extrusion speed is about 90mm/sec, temp is 230°, 10% infill, 2 layers (the white version in the photo I previously posted was printed with these settings).
For Simplify 3D, the speed is about 60mm/sec, temp is 230°. I'll try going slower but any idea if there are other settings that need adjusting? The speed seems slow already.
-
I would check your nozzle dia. and the filament dia. in the s3d software. Looks like you are extruding out too much plastic.
-
The S3D setting for nozzle diameter is 0.4mm and the filament diameter is 1.75mm. Those appear to be correct. You mentioned it looks like the printer is extruding too much plastic. Not sure I agree. If anything, too little is coming out. Again, the white piece is coming out fine but the black one has a lot of gaps in the final printed piece.
I'll try slowing down the print and maybe play with the coasting distance but really at a loss why this printing so poorly.
-
ever think it could be the color rather than the program just a thought is all .
-
s3d version 3.0 has been released. its a huge update. everything that everyone was asking for.
-
Don't think it's the color. I've printed the same piece in black and white with MakerBot slicing and both prints came out perfect.
-
JimC - thanks for the heads-up. Downloading now then will try a test print with it.
-
Well v.3 faired no better. Over on the S3D discussion board I came across this post: https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1587
It looks like the software just can't handle printing thin pieces, which is pretty much what I was trying to print. The last post in that thread mentioned changing the extrusion width (from .4mm to .2mm) and the Extrusion Multiplier from .9mm to 1.5mm.
I'm trying a print now and we'll see how it turns out.
-
Well, I tried the settings but no luck (http://screencast.com/t/5ZSKu58iOVS). I guess S3D just can't print thin walls. Back to MakerBot.
-
you cant change the nozzle dia like that. the nozzle dia needs to stay correct to the machine. s3d prints thin walls just fine. if its too thin for your printer to print it then s3d will know it and the unprintable walls wont be showing in the print preview. have you run a thin wall calibration cube? you need to dial in your extrusion settings first. you cant just set them where you want. you also can expect your settings from makerware to work in s3d, slicer, cura or vice versa. hiw the math is figured out is different in all of them so settings will be unique for all. also as for the filament dia, is your filament actually 1.75? did you measure it with calipers in a bunch of different places?
looking at your last picture, its hard to tell but it looks like some of the features are too small to print. s3d wont print out of spec like other slicers. it knows how small your printer can actually print correctly. if the feature is too small it wont do it. other slicers will just print it anyway even though the end result isnt correct to the original model.
-
Thanks Jim. Let me try printing a thin wall calibration piece and see if I find any issues. Re: your comment that S3D won't print pieces that are too small if the printer can't handle it...I'll have to read up on this. Maybe that's the limitation I'm bumping up against.
-
230 for black pla ?
that's way too hot !
try it at 205 or 210.
-
ok so the deal with thin walls is this. your printer has a nozzle size of say .4mm. every wall has an inner and outer surface. thats 1 extrusion to make 1 surface and 1 extrusion to make the other. if you have your extrusion width set to say .45mm then thats a wall width of .9mm. you can bump that down a little by lowering you extrusion width to .4 which now gives you a .8mm wall. you cant lower your extrusion width below your nozzle dia and get consistent results. in reality you want you width to be set a little higher than your nozzle dia. in any case lets say for this you drop the width to .4 giving you a .8 wall. s3d knows you cannot print a wall thinner than .8 and stay within spec of the original model so it will not do it. now the trick. there is a little bit of a fudge factor. in the advanced tab there is a thin wall behavior setting. you can ramp this up as high as 50%. what this does is overlap the extrusions up to your setting to basically squeeze a little extra out of your machine but it can only go so far. the machine has limits. if you print alot of highly detailed items then you really need to get a smaller nozzle. the other slicers look at the model and if there is a .2mm wall they just slap a wall there that ends up being .8mm or whatever. well thats fine for something like a sculpture but what about mechanical parts? remember these are rapid prototype machines and for most prints things need to be within spec. i make alot of parts for industrial equipment. when i hand my parts to my client they all have to be within .005".....just something to think about. hope that explains the process a little.
as a test, slice your model in s3d then look at the preview. it should look something like the print you ended up with on page 1. some of or portions of the lines are probably missing. now take you extrusion width setting and drop it down to .2mm and slice. now look in the preview. do the missing areas return? if they do they your too thin on the model. move the width setting back to equal your nozzle dia then in the advanced tab set the thin wall to 50% and slice again. check the preview and see if that is enough to get the walls to print. if it is then print away. if not then you hit the limit of the nozzle and you cant print any finer.
-
You could also fudge your print by putting a 0.4mm nozzle, leave that alone, and boost your flow to something like 175% and it will lay down a very wide single layer. This will be tricky with ABS since the W/T ratio is high if you do that, and that may cause a lot of internal stress. I sometimes go this route.
-
you can print a 0.4mm wall - just use one perimeter. It's pretty weak - but it'll do it without any problems.
Didn't know about that thin wall settings though - cheers :-)
-
Similarly, Simplify3D is producing warping and threading on the same models RepG had no trouble printing. I'm getting the impression there's something wrong with their default feed rate. Disappointing.