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I have to admit, I'm glad you've gone digital. To seems to remove issues with system sound and background noise that some poor sound card have... Just means you've had to put aside your idea of it being easier for developing (no pun) countries not being able to use their phones? Dam, those prints look mighty fine....
So, question. What's the potential resolution now you're working digitally, still working in 16bit?
EDIT: How come the random start position was used on the rocket? It had a seem which I thought you were trying avoid.
Also, is that an atmega chip I see, if so, arn't their PWM only 10bit? IE 1024 positions.
any close up images of that new board? also - will this be able to be driven by a chromebook?
Great questions guys
- chip is an STM32
- signal resolution( not measuring noise ) is 18 bit and we accomplished this by using more than 1 pwm pin per Chanel
- actual functional resolution... I have no clue but it looks like it might be so good its hard to measure,
- using random start point spreads that seam all over the print and makes for a print that dosent look glassy but has a ruff texture.
There is a way to never have a seam and have clear prints but we havent not implemented it yet... it would involve never stopping the mirrors or tuning the laser off but instead pwm the laser power to match the speed of the resin riseing ( it will be awsome! ) its in our work log but wont see development for at-least 3 months. I think someday you will be printing and all the seams will just disappear after a software update :)
- We still have hopes of sporting phones, android looks rather promising, were working on a ui that uses kivi which supports mobile.
- Digital will probably never work on chrome book, for that to work someone would have to re write the software in java and a web browser plug in.
it might be posible to hack some fun projects together with audio and chrome book.
Drat.... so even something like gcode sender won't work? I'm not really digging the idea of having to leave a full computer on running the printer.
I must apologize for using the words " never work in crome book "
That kind of language is actualy a bit imoral in my opinion, or at least not very helpfull.
Where there is a will there is a way is a better attitude!
gcodeSender looks a bit promising because it streems gcode.
some things that might need to be done....
- slicers typicaly output gcode containing instructions for where they want our laser dot to hit the resin, not for the deflection at which to position a mirror so that our laser dot will hit the resin. this is part of the translation work that the peachy printer software dose. So.... perhaps the peachy software could be modified to output deflection g codes and you could send that file with gcodeSender.
- if gcode sender works by just alwase keeping the serial buffer full, ( blocking mode) then the circuit could run a
modified firm ware that only reads serial data relevant to the number of drips it has counted.
essentially what this dose is make drops of water regulate the flow of data over the usb cable.
If you have the skills to make it work then we will gladly help.
That said you might also just prefer a different version of the circuit ( that is still in developemt )
that will have and SD card slot so you can put many prints( gcode files) on to your printer, and it will just need 5 volts for the duration of the print.
That 5 volts could come from your chrome book.
The version in the update cant do this because it is a supper basic version and so it has VERY little memory on board.
I can't wait to actually get to play with this :)
Please keep us up-to-date on how production and shipping are coming!
Hey Rylan, Great update!
I'm really a noob to 3D printing and since this is now finalized, can you please describe the workflow from creating / downloading an stl file to printing it?
Is it something like:
1. Create / download STL
2. Connect Peachy to PC by USB
2. Open STL in slicer / custom peachy software?
3. Print to peachy from above software?
Also after looking at the form1 forums it seems that their most common hardware issues have been laser diodes failing (creating a wide beam of light - resulting in partially cured resin all over the place), and cleaning mirrors, possibly just an issue due to them not wanting users to do this badly and damage the mirror. From what I've seen it should be easy to replace these parts on the peachy, but I'm wondering if there will be any special instructions for this, or will it just be a case of replacing the parts?
Welcome mrsullers
At peachy printer we have done alot of thinking about how to make it quick and easy to have a great first experience with our printer
At a 100 dollar price point your in good company being a newbe to 3d printing. Lots of our customers are!
Here are a couple of work flows you can do with peachy printer.
1 plug your printer in to a usb port
2 open peachy printer software
3 click on one of many costomizable prints packaged right in the software to start printing.
Of course you will want to make your own things from scratch to so in that case:
-use a 3d modleing software of your choice to make a modle and save it as an stl or download an stl.
- use a slicer of your choice to turn your object into layers and save it as gcode.
- open the gcode with peachy software to start printing.
As for the mirros they are very very delicate so cleaning them dosent work very well.
Instead we have made sure that the mirros only take about 1 minuit to replace, and only cost a dollar or two for a brand new set of mirrors.
Replacing your mirrors is very easy to do and there will be instructions for how to do that.
The same goses for replacing your laser, its as easy as screwing in a light bulb, because we have a laser socket. changeing your laser will take about 30 seconds.
and will cost ruffly 10 dollars. Altho we have not had any problems with burning them out recently, after switching to brand name Sony laser diodes.
This easy to replace thing is the case for all the parts in a peachy printer. nearly all the parts snap together sort of like Lego, and are rather easy to,
and because the hole printer costs 100 bucks there arnt any parts that are particularly expensive to replace.
That was a great update. I'm so impressed with your printer.
Hmm, I've got a model that other 3d printers can't handle. It's a case for a raspberry pi's camera with 2 servos. I've not been able to print it on any printer yet, so I'm curious if the peach can handle it.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:207403
At the vary least I would rotate that 90 degrees, that way you end up with fewer, smaller overhangs. I know they've had some problems with small holes (the roughness in the vase in the last update was supposed to be holes) so you might end up having to drill those out. Other then those observations, I don't think it looks MUCH worse then the staircase in the rook.Quote:
Originally Posted by iplayfast
(note: I don't yet have my peachy though, so this advice is worth about what you paid for it! :p)
Will the printer ship with 3d models of the different plastic parts that the printer is made of? just incase one would need a spare part to replace a broken or if one wanted to modify it in someway
Altho the many of the design files are not publicly available yet ( as were not trying to give clones any head starts )
We do plan to make them available to our customers under an non commercial share alike attribution type licence,
altho we dont have a planed release date yet.
We are in support of you being able to modify your printer and share your modifications.
Or 3d printer your own broken parts.
Also were looking forward to doing a reprap type project where we attempt to print nearly all of a peachy printer with a peachy printer.
Can people please do this survey for our class and share the survey as well. We are trying to get at least 100 response. One link is for people who have a 3D printer and the other is for people who don't have a 3D printer.
Have Printer http://3dprintboard.com/image/png;ba...BJRU5ErkJggg==https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/LN3GZ8D
Don't have printer http://3dprintboard.com/image/png;ba...BJRU5ErkJggg==https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/LYB69B6
make sure to click on the correct link.
That half-Rook has me hyped up for this project all over again.
Great to finally see a finished (well you know, working and shippable) Peachy !
Congratulations Rylan, and you've kept to the price as well. Brilliant !
Now the kit doesn't look like it will weigh much, so postage should be reasonable (says $25, works for me). But if I order one (and I'm seriosuly tempted) can I buy resin in the uk. And if so, what would you recommend ?
I also note it still says printer & SCANNER on the website.
I'm probably still more interested in the scanner side, is that up and working yet ?
So all in $125. Are we talking canadian or american dollars ?
American dollars equates to: £83
Canadian dollars equates to: £66
Either way it's one hell of an achievement :-)
Well done !
Whoever designed that model had an sls powder machine in mind. It's not designed for sla or fff without a bucket load of supports.Quote:
Originally Posted by iplayfast
Probably easier and quicker to design your own that will print without supports.
I have a quick question seeing as I might get me one of these kits. I haven't seen much in regards to the average Z-Resolution in comparison to other sla 3-D printers like the Form1+ or a Titan1. So, based on what can be considered to be the average setup, what is the average Z-resolution?
Quote:
Originally Posted by curious aardvark
Canadian, I'm in the UK and I purchased a peachy and 1li of resin. I think (I'll check later) it came in at a total of £118.
Something you will notice if you're checking out resin prices is that it's cheaper to by from peachy than imaker. Their UK shop sells G+ for £35 per 500ml, their US shop sells it for $33 per 500ml, you cannot order from the US site (I have this in an email). I think when ordering from peachy it works out around £50 per litre rather than £70 (I think imaker charger shipping on top of this too, shame on them?).
bre358, the z resolution depends more upon the SIZE of the build container vs drop size, but should be able to get below 0.001mm without too much difficulty
You're right to a point but as you try to get smaller and smaller Z-steps you'll run into issues with the meniscus. There were some ideas around raising and lowering the level (like up 3 drips, down 2 drips) before the laser does its thing but I don't think this is a stock feature of the peachy.Quote:
Originally Posted by harpo99999
In fact, I'd be interested to know if any special printing methods were used for that rook. Maybe Rylan will tell us...
lots of good questions hope you dont mind if I answer in point form, all in one post.
curious aardvark:
- peachy printers are priced in usd ( the Canadian dollar took a real dive and we by all our parts in usd, hence the change )
- The web site says 3d scanner and we still plan to make that a reality. Whats working now is to rudementry to say its up and running.
- as for peachy having a resin distributor in the uk, im sure we will but i hope you have your printer before we get that set up, because im sure its a year out.
bre358:
- z resolution... lets see.. We typically lay down 100 layers per mm, all the prints in update 51 were done at that z resolution so for example the rook is
8cm tall so it has 8000 layers (Were pretty hard on slicers lol). Its interesting to note that the human eye cant see our layers at this resolution, when you see rings or layer like artifacts in our prints you are not seeing layers your seeing some other artifact that is happening repetitiously every 10 - 100 layers, were still tracking down the causes of these artifacts and every time we find another one the prints get a little more like glass.
- also what harpo99999 said is correct, thx harpo99999, just to add some real life numbers to your point:
When we print in a 2 litre pop bottle its normal to get 260 drips per mm of height rise With the standard dripper
or in other words 2.6 drips per layer. If we were to dim the laser, 2.6 times dimer, or move the laser 2.6 times faster, then we could get a print in the same time( printing at the same drip rate in drips/second) to have a Z resolution of .0038mm ( 1mm/ 260 drips = .0038 mm. )
Thats getting close to .001mm and you could easily pick a container with more surface aria to get more resolution.
But there is another way I think we can get to .001mm in the same 2 liter pop bottle, make smaller drips.
Typical peachy printer drips are about 1/10th of a ml but ive read that there are medical "micro drippers" that do 60 drips per mL.
making the drips smaller with the peachy dripper is easy, you just bend a little wire on the dripper making the gap the drip falls in smaller.
If you can get the drips to be 1/40 of a mL then you would hit that .001mm mark in a 2 litter pop bottle.
and you could lay down 1000 layers every mm. blar im getting sleepy Hope whatever math i just blurted out += up.
- another thing worth measuring in the z is how short of a hole can you leave in a vertical wall, because the laser light penetrates the resin deeper than one layer height.
I think (if i remember correctly) I have left holes in a vertical wall as small as .25 mm but .5mm holes are repeatably achievable. This is something that can be controlled by uv blocking ingredients in the resin like pigments for example. Further more software that intentionally dims the laser when travelling over a hole could improve this measure of resolution alot.
- lastly our z accuracy is good with a peristaltic pump add on +/- 1 percent no problem, but quite bad with a dripper more like +/- 5 percent.
Right so when we talk about getting 1000 drips per mm and how that gets us a "resolution" of .001 mmQuote:
Originally Posted by Chayat
thats probably a miss use or at least an over simplification of the word resolution, there are all kinds of sources of noise in the system
that push and pull the one thousand layers you just did up and down side to side etc.... at the end of the day we print with 100 layers per mm because that's
about where it gets tricky to measure any improvements from doing even more layers.
The rook was done with the standard setup no hacks or mods or anything to the printer, it was printed in a 2 litre pop bottle with the top cut off.
We did tilt the stl 15 degrees in the slicer to give overhangs more layers and added a small base or raft which we cut off before filming.
The print had 8000 layers probably 1000 of which were in the base that we cut off. Theres not really much more I can say about it... we were just as impressed
and shocked when we saw it for the first time too.
so how long did the rook take at that resolution ?
I think I printed my best one in about an hour and a half on my creator.
I presume with the laser and constant dripping the layers build up quite fast. But damn 100 layers to a mm !
That's ridiculous :-)
I was wondering (and apologize if it's been answered before) - Since it's essentially adaptable to various reservoir sizes, how big do you think you can get with the default assembly before it starts causing possible distortion or artifacts in the prints?
I would love to print raspberry pi cases or perhaps something like an iphone case for instance. Some of the smaller reservoirs I have seen so far appear to be a bit too small for these objects. So if I were to put a larger bin in, say, 10 inches in length, would this be acceptable for the printer? or would it cause issues?
I would love to see larger build platforms / slightly larger jar shapes or examples of something with a slightly larger base. I don't plan to print giant objects, but if it's something with a little lenght, I am curious how the peachy would fair.
I can't answer that, but for fun, if you were to project your build and use a 0.3mm aperture (assumed to be focused to infinity) and each point was were only just touching (no overlap) x and y could be 78M. But really you will be having at least 50% overlap. Side note, at a projection of 40degs to get to 78M you would need to place the laser 92M up.Quote:
Originally Posted by spooky
I have a feeling that canoe is going to need some planning. :P
Hahaha! I couldn't imagine trying to print a canoe!
As the build area is a cone will we see increased resolution in the XY as the Z increases?
I don’t think so, it’s best to imagine the XY resolution in terms of points per degree of projection.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chayat
You don’t gain any increase resolution by being further away from the laser, you may gain some detail though due to the increased distance between edges as the meniscus will become less of an issue.
The last few post have some great questions about max print size...
I just thought id mention that no one at the peachy team really knows the answers to them yet.
We have done some bigger prints than we have shown but That might be in the next update so ill let everyone see it there, ether way even our bigest prints dont really push the boundaries
of what I think we may discover the peachy printer can do.