First test of taulman 910 alloy

Well, first off they say to print on pva.
I printed on my pet tape with a bit of gluestick - no problems.

They also claim it doesn't warp - which would seem to be the case.

But my god does it string !

In that respect it's no different than nylon, which is a real shame. I was hoping it would be a nylon substitute that printed as clean as pla.
Nope prints as manky as any nylon. But doesn't warp and does stick to to pet.
The sample i have had been kept in the bag it came in with the silicon sachet. Yet still fizzed and bubbled.

Taulman claim this is an entirely new material. Well I can't tell it apart from nylon, which is a shame.

All i was printing were some small clips to stop pellets falling ut of airgun magazines.
I tried the recommended temps: 245 & 250. Couldn't see any difference

here's a pic of the 2 910 alloy clips next to a pla clip.

Just looks like nylon and to be honest I doubt I could tell the difference between this stuff and the 618 nylon I've got.
Attachment 6154

And that's why you buy samples before big reels :-)

The clips do work though and are tough and stiff enough to stay in place in a pocket.
So at least it won't be wasted.
But it's definitely not a clean printing substitute for nylon.

I think I need to try some pet.

Thanks for the report, ca.

Just don't know where taulman are coming from. If you read their description of this stuff it sounds like super tough super bendy pet.

But just prints like old crappy nylon. Most of my filaments get left out of their bags a lot. this stuff wasn't. So had no chance to absorb moisture.
But you can see by the layers just how uneven it prints.

Quote:

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lloy 910 is a measurable advancement in 3D Printing materials technology from taulman3D. taulman Alloy 910 is the combined effort of chemical companies, extrusion manufactures and taulman3D to specifically develop a single material to meet as many high performance 3D Printing needs as possible. With a combined tensile strength higher than the strongest co-polyesters, the durability of Nylons, a shrinkage factor that rivals our t-glase, a vast range of chemical resistance and a 95C working range, you now have one solution easily printable at 245C.

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I suppose - to be - fair. they don't actually say it prints better than nylon and with better definition. But that's definitely the impression you get.
I've got a roll of taulman bridge I haven't opened yet.
I think I'll give that a go and see if there's any difference between that and this stuff.
Printed - this definitely looks like the 618 I have. Which is easily the worst looking prints I've yet made.

I do have some pet - but \i wound it tight on a small spool and it turned into a slinky :-)
So I've got it on a much larger spool now to try and get rid of the tight coils lol
I'll have to check the box of tct samples - might have some in there.

But for the time being my conclusion on alloy 910 is that yes it's easy to print with but it still looks as crap as any other nylon.

you are totally wrong about taulmans products! you need to practice printing because that looks like hell. i print perfect parts every time with alloy 910. that print you have pictured there looks like a 3 yo printed it on a chinese knockoff printer. You need to hone your settings better or get a new printer because taulman alloy 910 and even bridge prints cleaner than abs. Also alloy 910 is much different than their nylons even though it is partially a nylon itself. Alloy 910 is much stiffer than nylon. Just look at the pictures on their website and compare them to your picture and you will see that you are the one that is doing something wrong. I tried multiple times to upload some pictures of some of my taulman 910 prints but it wont let me.

well - yes. I did say that. It does look like crap - that's kind of the point :-)
I can't get taulman products to print properly.

Given that I've printed cleanly with everything else from ninjaflex to pet - and taulman persist in claiming how easy their stuff is to use, It can't just be me.

I've tried using their recommended settings and some either side. And it always comes out like crap.

The logical conclusion is that you need an enclosed machine and the filament is genuinely aimed only at industrial machines.

If you can add some pictures - and it's extremely easy.
Just go to insert image, from computer - chose the 'basic uploader' (bottom right hand corner of the upload box) and upload an image. Job done.

And also some actual details ie: machine you use and the settings you use - that would be super useful :-)

The little clips above were eventually done in pet - which smells really bad, but made really durable clips.

I have users who report great results with 910. On an enclosed machine.

Here's where I posted this on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/hyrel3d/posts/585786351562732

I'll ask for his settings (prime, unprime, pulses, temp, etc.) today.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by curious aardvark

well - yes. I did say that. It does look like crap - that's kind of the point :-)
I can't get taulman products to print properly.

Given that I've printed cleanly with everything else from ninjaflex to pet - and taulman persist in claiming how easy their stuff is to use, It can't just be me.

I've tried using their recommended settings and some either side. And it always comes out like crap.

The logical conclusion is that you need an enclosed machine and the filament is genuinely aimed only at industrial machines.

If you can add some pictures - and it's extremely easy.
Just go to insert image, from computer - chose the 'basic uploader' (bottom right hand corner of the upload box) and upload an image. Job done.

And also some actual details ie: machine you use and the settings you use - that would be super useful :-)

The little clips above were eventually done in pet - which smells really bad, but made really durable clips.

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I had a lot of trouble with bridge and other nylons at first.....took me a while but the speeds need to be quite slow....almost 1/2 ABS in my experience

The first few prints I did were also my worst prints ever. Now after some experimenting they are not bad. Never as accurate as ABS or PLA, but I only use them where strength is needed. All this on a Flashforge Pro....can get you my settings if you like, just not at that computer ATM.

I just did this the other day with bridge....you couldn't break it without using tools, and the layer adhesion is 100%, tested about 100lbs on a 12 mm wide shaft which is all layer adhesive strength (only needed to support 10lbs)
Attachment 7417
(the black is felt for marking holes)

I only use this stuff for industrial uses....I would never do art/decorative with it....still better with ABS PLA, but you can have workable prints. However very small stuff, like under 3mm is pretty bad IMHO

[QUOTE=curious aardvark;58832] Most of my filaments get left out of their bags a lot. this stuff wasn't. So had no chance to absorb moisture.
But you can see by the layers just how uneven it prints.

This is an old thread, so you may have solved this problem by now, but nylon, all nylon (including monofilament fishing line, and it's one of the reasons to replace it often) has incredible affinity for water. So even though it comes in a bag with a silica pack, even though Taulman do their best to keep it dry, it will need to be dried out. First thing I do before printing with any nylon is pop the spool in a 180F oven for 4 hours. Is it a pain? For some, sure, but I do other stuff while it's drying. The result is dry nylon (Bridge, 910, whatever) that prints flawlessly every time. The only time I have issues with 910 is if I forget to dry it adequately.

Taluman have a great little Home Depot bucket drier plan on their website and it works very well. Also when I know I'll be printing a lot of nylon I just keep a bucket of silica by the printer and after I dry the spool I store it in there.

Honestly my prints with 910 are great. FYI the printer I generally print it on is a heavily modded Replicator 2 with aluminum x-ends, carriage and zed axis, heated build plate, linear bearings, E3D v6 and Titan extruder, Sailfish firmware and Simplify3D slicer, but it also prints just fine with the stock hot end and extruder. I print on glass with Elmer's purple glue stick for everything, never a problem.

So dry that stuff out, and then dry it some more and see if that helps the print quality.

You've got a pro - enclosed.

Mine aren't. The only nylion I've tried that prints great is the mymat nylon. Very expensive, but hands down the easiest nylon to print currently on the market.

I've come to the conclusion that for most nylons, you need an enclosed machine.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by curious aardvark

I've come to the conclusion that for most nylons, you need an enclosed machine.

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I don't think a closed machine is 100% necessary, but as above it needs to be dry. I have mine in a airtight box (as closes you can get to airtight) during printing. My Markforged has a Pelli case to hold the nylon which work amazingly well!

I agree with GBR1. Nylon always needs to be dried extensively before using. It can absorb an anormous amount of water (one of the most absorbing polymers) and without drying I always have very opaque/bubbly/stringy/crappy objects. With vacuum-drying I get nice clear semi-translucent layers (colorless nylon) without much stringing.