Help Required: Corner lift

Hello!
I require some help.
It could we hardware or settings problem.

Previous printer and current - I always (!!) get a corner lifting.
No idea what causes it, I have tried different temps on the glass and nozzle.

I don't have a pic right now, but its generally a corner that lifts, sometimes it just curves up, other times it just a dead lift and sits up no matter what.

Printing onto a mirror with a later of Kapton tape on it.

Head bed - 60 to 70 dregrees.
Generally first layer is 70 and other layers around 60 or 65.

Extruder is at around 185.

king what type of plastic are you printing? by your temps i would guess pla. the curling is the natural force of nature when the plastic cools. each layer goes down hot, bonds to the layer under then it cools and shrinks which pulls the cooled layers. now multiply this force for "x" # of layers and your part curls. it the whole reason stratasys has heated build chambers. some plastics do it more than others. pla is easier than abs. abs is easier than nylon. madesolid pet+ is the easiest of all. modeling mouse ears/discs on the corners of your print to hold it down helps alot. if your using pla try ditching the kapton and spray a couple good heavy wet coats of hairspray on your mirror then print on that.

We sometimes add a disc of one layer height to each corner when we don't want a raft, but the build is large enough to worry about lift. It is easy to trim off with a knife and touch with a file to smooth the edge afterward.

Thanks!!
Yes, PLA.
I will try build a little box around it.
I had this thought sometime last year but never got around to it, I have a large tub I could fit the printer inside of! :)

@Dave: This disk - How do you do this, is this a slic3r setting or modifying the 3D file? If this can be done in Slic3r - Can you make it more than one layer? Maybe 5 layers or something?

Kingoddball,

We open a cad program, define a circle, extrude it to one layer thickness, then save the .stl.

Then we bring it into slic3r with the object to print, and place one at each corner, then slice the entire group as one object (part of the discs overlap with the main object, no problems). We have discussed automating the process, since we already detect corners to define the skirt.

With just one layer thickness, it is very easy to trim off. Five layers high might be tougher to remove without blemishing the main work.

I've convinced the guys here to call them "Davopads" even after their initial drive for less cool nomenclature. :)

You can see a version in the "Four Parts" video in my signature, but this is one large pad versus four smaller ones.

AH!!
THAT'S AN AWESOME IDEA! (Yep - Caps level of excitement!)

We need thanks buttons here!

I'm happy calling them Davopads

i do this all the time. i have however not found them very helpful when done real thin. well anything helps but when the corners curl, if the discs arent stiff they seem to just lift right up. i guess it depends on the model though and how strong you need them. i keep them modeled and in a folder as davo said then just drop them on the build table. drag them where you want them and your good to go. usually mine vary from 5-7 layers. not sure with pla as i never print it but in abs they just pop right off no problem and you cant even see where they were.

When I get the chance I will watch the Videos - Work blocks all the good websites!

jimc, maybe your pads aren't large enough. We usually use about one inch diameter pads, or else one large one to cover all corners of a smaller build.

@Davo: Are you able to throw up a photo of one?
I cannot view vids at work. If you can throw up a pic I would be grateful. Just so I can see how it looks/works.

check out this electronics box i modeled. scroll to the right and goto the last picture. they are a little bigger than necessary but you get the idea.


http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:157239

Here's an stl file for a mouse-eared plate. If you are going to use it, add this file to slic3r first, then add your object file and arrange your object file on the top of the mouse-eared plate. If your object is too big, then highlight the mouse-eared plate and use the Scale function to enlarge it until your object's footprint is smaller than the plate's footprint.

Old Man Emu

I have some pieces here, but I can't find our camera right now. Will get to it when the camera thief comes in.

http://morelight.org/hyrel/pads.jpg

Thank you both!!

This is something I have never seen, I'm going to watch your vid's and try out OME's STL! :)

Does it cause a drop/droop when going from one corner/mouse to the next?
Looks like a small gap to the ground?

No, the bottom is flush across the parts and the pads.

What about the gap between pads?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kingoddball

I'm going to try out OME's STL! :)

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If you can't get slic3r to code both together, go back to you CAD program and load the mouse ear stl onto your workspace then create your object and join both together before exporting the stl of the joined object.

OME

The pads are primarily to give more anchor contact to the areas likely to lift during the build. You can add them where ever you like. We didn't have a need to put them in the center.

How thick are the pads? I attached two components I wanted to print to a rectangular piece with oval corners. I made it 1mm thick. I still got corner lift. I've redesigned with a thickness of 0.4mm and will up the bed temp to115C.

OME

i print at .15mm layers and i make mine 5 layers or so thick. thats .75

.4mm thick and 115C bed temperature. Result: The edges turned up like the toes on a Alladin's slippers.
Tomorrow I'm going to the hardware shop to get some square aluminium tubing to make a fully enclosed cabinet for my printer to see if that will keep the temperatures correct.

OME

ome, if your having that kind of trouble then your printing on the wrong surface for the type of plastic. i dont remember if you said what plastic type you were using and what the bed was that you were printing on??

OME: When you are complete fixing up for printer, can you post up some pics?
I have just had my i2 returned back to me and I'm going to be encasing this into perspex along the threaded rod to keep heat in.

THAT'S AN AWESOME IDEA!

Warping is my worst obstacle in printing. (ABS, Prusa i2 & steel nozzle, hotbed)
It seems like smart solution.
Thank you for ingenious invention !
Davopads forever :)

I'm happy if it's helping some folks.

Did I mention that we also use Aqua Net hairspray (for ABS)? Warm the bed, give a light dusting with Aqua Net, let it set up, print away.

After a bunch of prints, you'll have some buildup, but it's water soluble, so just wash it off and start over.

-Davo

If printing in PLA, I would also suggest lowering the extruder temperature. Printing PLA you would want to lower to extruder temperature to about 215 degrees. I would also suggest printing without the heated build plate on. If you’re not already, I suggest that you cover the plate with some blue painter's tape. Often the blue painter's tape helps the PLA to stick to the platform while also making the print easier to pull off when completed. After putting the tape down, it helps to clean the surface with rubbing alcohol, as PLA will stick to anything except for the oils left behind by your fingers. Lastly, PLA works better with more planar, simple prints and in some instances it helps to use an external fan to cool down the filament slightly as it prints to help it solidify.