So printing Taulman Bridge Nylon is easy? Not for me! Help needed plz

Hi and thanks for reading my thread!
So I'm having some issues printing Taulman Bridge Nylon. The extruder seems to be having issues feeding the nylon, it has a brief moment when its feeding then slips on the nylon (rinse and repeat) When I received the filament it was damp (steam coming out from hotend, cracks and pops.etc) I have dried the filament out and those issues are gone. My printer prints PLA and ABS like a champ. So why this nylon is causing so much trouble has got me stumped. The filament measures 1.76~1.78mm so its a fraction on the large size. Not that I would expect that to cause the issue?

What I've tried so far:

Adjust idler lose
Adjust idler tight
Made a tiny adjustment to align hobbed bolt perfectly
Raised and lowered printing temp (235~255c)


My Setup:

Custom build Reprap i3
Gregs Wades extruder
E3D V6 1.75mm hotend

Do you have a bowden tube (push setup) by any chance? Assuming you're using E3D, which might be the case.
Also, what the printing speed and z resolution ?

Nylon by nature is slippery, which is why it is a pain to deal with. Nice thing with nylon is the ability to dye it.

Rofl! I got it to feed in my Taz but I couldn't get it to stick to the build plate nor painter tape :(

Following with baited breath to see what this thread yields for info. I was trying T618 but if I can get close settings for bridge, I might get somethig to fly.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by richardphat

Do you have a bowden tube (push setup) by any chance? Assuming you're using E3D, which might be the case.
Also, what the printing speed and z resolution ?

Nylon by nature is slippery, which is why it is a pain to deal with. Nice thing with nylon is the ability to dye it.

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Im using a Gregs Wades extruder (direct drive), Print speed of 20mm/s for first layer. Then 50 mm/s (though obviously Ive never made it past the first layer lol) I didnt know you could dye nylon. Good to know! no doubt that will come in handy.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Wolfie

Rofl! I got it to feed in my Taz but I couldn't get it to stick to the build plate nor painter tape :(

Following with baited breath to see what this thread yields for info. I was trying T618 but if I can get close settings for bridge, I might get somethig to fly.

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I had no problem getting it to stick to my heated bed. I use a pva/water 50/50 solution and spray that on my glass bed. You only need a very thin coat for it to work great. then heat the bed up to 90c.

You need some sort of porous surface... really porous. I plan to try on plywood. Glue or hairspray don't work with Taulman.

Garolite, is overkill and you might just destroy your print or garolite by trying to remove it.


Also about nylon dye

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zCAeh8wH7rc

Back to the topic, have you ever considered that your nozzle might be partially clogged?

Can you try extruding in the open and watch the pushed plastic out of the nozzle? If the nylon goes straight then it is clean, if it curve to one side, then it is dirty.

The following topic explain how you can clean your nozzle with Nylon filament, and considering the fact you already have, it is very handy.

http://blog.teambudmen.com/2013/09/s...er-nozzle.html

Quote:

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Originally Posted by richardphat

Back to the topic, have you ever considered that your nozzle might be partially clogged?

Can you try extruding in the open and watch the pushed plastic out of the nozzle? If the nylon goes straight then it is clean, if it curve to one side, then it is dirty.

The following topic explain how you can clean your nozzle with Nylon filament, and considering the fact you already have, it is very handy.

http://blog.teambudmen.com/2013/09/s...er-nozzle.html

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So I tried a couple of cold pulls like suggested, nozzle was clean as a whistle. So I figured that the problem likely had to be related to nozzle pressure. So I tried printing at 265c and bam works. 1 layer kinda failed in a print so maybe another 5~10c will be perfect. Obviously its realistically impossible to measure the true nozzle temp. So my guess it my true nozzle temp is about 10~20c lower than measured. Im using the supplied semitec thermistor, its a top quality thermistor so Im sure that isnt the problem. Anyway was an easy fix. Thanks for help and I hope anyone else having the same issue finds this thread :D


EDIT, also many thanks to Richard for info on dying nylon! :)

UPDATE: For anyone interested these are my final and working settings. Hotend 275c (recommend only using an all metal hotend for this temp) and the 2nd key setting was the idler tension. Only med~loose tension. Med~tight tension only resulted in slipping.

First successful nylon print!
http://3dprintboard.com/attachment.p...tid=5230&stc=1

We usually print Nylon on 220 grit sandpaper, grit up.

This thread's a bit old but I'm having very similar trouble, been printing for a year or so on a hytbrid delta with an E3D V6 (Bowden) and an EZStruder and recently started to print using Taulman Bridge Nylon at 250c

I can only get so far into a print before the filament stops moving, but it doesn't appear to be blocked at the nozzle. Instead it seems to be binding up somewhere higher in the E3D, if I pull it out and try to work it back in manually I can even feel where it's binding. Cutting about two feet off the filament and starting again seems to to get me started again but only for a while.

Did a couple of cold pulls and got some junk out but it hasn't solved the problem. It's almost as if the filament is getting wider but if I check it with a caliper it's still 1.75.

Any ideas?

Bridge nylon has been made redundant by more advanced nylons, I use Taulman Alloy Nylon now, Less warping and much easier to get the first layer to stick. If I were you I'd try raising the nozzle temp to 275c, With my E3D V6 I couldn't print at 250c, so I'm not surprised you're having trouble.

^^ what he said. Temps are too low. I had zero problems getting it to stick on a heated glass bed with adhesive but the extrusion temps need to be upwards of 260.

Progress. Cleared up a problem with the spool holder that only happens with the smaller spool for the nylon, raised the temp to 265 and got a print to complete if not very well, lots of threading and globbing. Dried the nylon when I got it but that was a week ago, put it in the oven overnight.

Tried another print and jammed again, this time it appears the filament was scraping on an edge between the spool and the extruder motor and binding up in the Bowden tube. Killing me. Trying again now.

Warping was my next question. Using purple glue stick on glass at ~60c and a print with a rectangular base 55mmx80mm is pulling up at the corners even if I shield the print area. This is a delta so harder to shield, I wrap it with a piece of fleece clipped below the carriages. Will try the glass hotter and limp along until I can try another nylon.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RepRapi3

Bridge nylon has been made redundant by more advanced nylons, I use Taulman Alloy Nylon now, Less warping and much easier to get the first layer to stick. If I were you I'd try raising the nozzle temp to 275c, With my E3D V6 I couldn't print at 250c, so I'm not surprised you're having trouble.

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Well Damn. Was trying to reload the filament for the gazillionth time and found a point where I couldn't even pull it through the "top" Bowden tub (from the spool to the extruder motor), this time there was a clear point where the filament just stopped moving. Checked the diameter at the point where it stopped when it hit the tube and it's 1.99mm.

Could this stuff have gotten hot while stored and malformed? Or has Taulman had QC issues in the past? Or is this not real Taulman?

Got it on Amazon. Returning it.

taulman products really suck in open cased machines. Personally I wouldn't even consider using them unless it was a fully enclosed machine.
I have never managed to get anything close to a decent print from ANY taulman product from an open framed, unheated machine.
Think I had even more hassle with the alloy 910 than I did with the bridge.

You want a seriously good nylon that prints without the hassle you get with everything else - try MyMat nylon. Pricey, but just works - in any machine.

Taulman Bridge is not easy to print with and you have to get the settings right (>255C), slow printing speeds, no cooling and zero under- or overextrusion, and for each project after at least a month of non-use you oven dry it for 4 hours at 75C/160F. It is a few years old but still a great filament. Also layer bonding is great compared to other filaments resulting in strong parts. Thin parts can designed to be flexible while thicker ones will be very strong and feasible for load-bearing applications. A heated bed is not necessary for most parts if you use a brim and coarse print bed material. I have printed a few nice parts with it.