Need help with print quality

What causes what I am seeing in the below pictures??

Attachment 367
hairs and rough spots

Attachment 368
indents

Frog (printed at 200c)
; generated by Slic3r 1.0.0RC1 on 2014-01-08 at 18:37:46
; layer_height = 0.05
; perimeters = 3
; top_solid_layers = 3
; bottom_solid_layers = 3
; fill_density = 0.4
; perimeter_speed = 30
; infill_speed = 60
; travel_speed = 130
; nozzle_diameter = 0.35
; filament_diameter = 1.74
; extrusion_multiplier = 1
; perimeters extrusion width = 0.35mm
; infill extrusion width = 1.93mm
; solid infill extrusion width = 0.59mm
; top infill extrusion width = 0.59mm
; first layer extrusion width = 0.70mm

Tap handle (printed at 210c)
; generated by Slic3r 1.0.0RC1 on 2014-01-08 at 18:37:46
; layer_height = 0.05
; perimeters = 3
; top_solid_layers = 3
; bottom_solid_layers = 3
; fill_density = 0.4
; perimeter_speed = 30
; infill_speed = 60
; travel_speed = 130
; nozzle_diameter = 0.35
; filament_diameter = 1.74
; extrusion_multiplier = 1
; perimeters extrusion width = 0.35mm
; infill extrusion width = 1.93mm
; solid infill extrusion width = 0.59mm
; top infill extrusion width = 0.59mm
; first layer extrusion width = 0.70mm


When layers aren't bonding, is this a cause from extrusion temperature being too low?

layer bonding is too low a temp. as for what you are seeing there, you need to fine tune your retraction, coasting and restart distance. im not sure what slic3r calls these. coasting stop extrusion "X" amt of mm before a retraction/rapid to relieve nozzle psi. restart distance either extruded or retracts the filament "x" distance after a rapid/retraction.

this is what i suspected. any suggestions where to start when swaying from defaults?

thanks jimc, you always come through with the help!

hey jimc, do i need to calibrate my extruder stepper motor?

No there is really no calibration for that unless you diving into the firmware setting.

What type of plastic are you printing?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jimc

No there is really no calibration for that unless you diving into the firmware setting.

What type of plastic are you printing?

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Ive seen on a few websites that it is crucial to measure how much your extruder stepper motor is actually pulling. Then you change the firmware.

These are the links which have me thinking about calibrating the extruder stepper motor.

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!se...o/6xXtewhrc1wJ
http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/...tings-and.html


Im printing PLA.

I tried messing with retraction settings but didnt seem to get anywhere. I seem to get better results by raising my temperature to 220c, tho 220c seems a bit high, it produces a much more glossy finish as well. Now that i think I have found a better temperature, ill start messing with the retraction settings. I dont see a setting for coasting anywhere.

My original post stated the temperatures I printed at, but I believe they are incorrect. Since then I realized Slic3r temperature settings overrides the Gcode temperature setting, so I'm not exactly sure what those were printed at. I was most likely around 180-185c as thats what Slic3r was set at before I noticed.

you dont need to do that calibration. that is all set up in the firmware already. if you built a reprap printer then yes you would need to do it. the m2 is a ready to go system even if you buy it in kit form. everything in the firmware is set.

one thing you need to keep in min for the temps is that on average you will need to run 20deg hotter with your block style hot end than the original heater core style. pla always printed nice on an m2 at 190 with the core style. now they have a block style so when your reading a temp of 220 the actual temp at the nozzle tip will be aprox 200. i have verified all this with a digital temp meter and thermocouple. 210-220 for pla with the v3b hot end is pretty normal. learning to use a 3d printer for the first time is a fairly big task. there is alot to know and youll need hours upon hours behind the machine and the software to really figure it out. another word of advice, when you find a good filament stick with it. jumping brands especially in the beginning makes tuning and learning that much harder. it adds another element to the mix which is usually unstable. not good in the beginning.

take a look at this thread for those bumps.

http://www.forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=329

Ok i wont look bother with trying to calibrate it. thanks for the thread link...What do you mean by multiplier being .88? is this the extrusion multiplier? how did you settle on .88 for this particular print?
i cant find any coasting settings with slic3r. running at 220-210 seems to help alot. thanks for the information about the new hotend being 20c lower than measured!

Quote:

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thanks dale for the input. yeah this part is 100% made of arcs. i havent bothered to try the g2/g3 because i thought it was not supported. my m2 is only a month old now so if yours is good then mine should be i guess. ill try it out. the blob i am getting is at the beginning of each line. i have worked on it tonight. tried the bottom 3/8" of that part about 10 times with different settings just tweaking and fine tuning each time. i basically nailed it on this last one. i was randomizing the start points which scattered those blobs all over the place. with all my experimenting to make that start point nice and clean i have found my retraction to be set at 1 but the coast really helps the most and is set at 2.8 which i guess is kinda high but i am watching the line go down and its not running short at the end at all so i guess thats fine. multiplier .88, temp 220, makergear black abs. i turned the random start point off so now my print this time is super clean, almost flawless. all i have is a real super small line where it starts each layer. as a matter of fact, its printing right now and this is the cleanest print i have ever done of anything to date. here is a pic so far.

now that you mentioned it i think i want to try that torture test out and see what happens with it. i forgot all about that thing.

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Yes thats extrusion multiplier. Sin e then i have upped it to around 94. Keep in mind that was for abs. Pla will be totally different.

How do you figure out the extrusion multiplier for the M2? I see the setting in my slicer softwares but am unsure how to fine tune it.

Do you just measure a known amount of filament, then print a set amount and figure how far off it is?

Also, how do you know you have set the right extrusion tension?

Well there are a couple ways. Take a look at your perimeter layers as they go down. The edges should touch one another. If they dont them you need to up the multiplier so more plastic is extruded. You cant do this on first layer. Another way is to print a calibraton cube. Measure with calipers when done. If its undersize then increase the multipler. If its over then decrease. There are many calibration items you can download on thingiverse.

thanks will do!