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Hi, hope you can help me, I need to print this part with the highest possible strenght, I tried with the flattest surface facing down (photo 2) but the upper parts breaks easily, I have Bridge nylon and ABS , any suggestion on orientation? or settings? thank a lot
http://3dprintboard.com/attachment.p...tid=4710&stc=1http://3dprintboard.com/attachment.p...tid=4711&stc=1
Pretty much like you have it in the pic is how it needs to be printed. Flat side down. Im not sure how big this part is but there appears to be thin vertical walls in some of the upper areas so if it were me i would print this with 1 perimeter and 100% infill. Abs or nylon. Whatever you want ti use. Abs will be more rigid and will break under stress. Nylon is more flexible and will bend easier but not actually break.
How would 1 shell, 100% infill be vs lets say, 6 shell, 35% infill. Which would be a "stronger" print, I guess is what I'm asking.Quote:
Originally Posted by jimc
thanks, i´ll try regards..
I would print that at 2 shells, 30 percent infill at 0.2mm. The thin walls, I would want more shells because the infill is calculated overall and those thin parts wouldn't get the 30% that the others are getting.
It looks like it will need supports tho for those back two clips.
bear in mind that much of the upper part of that is too thin for 6 shells.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassna
Given how thin much of it is. Yeah 1 shell and 100% infill you pretty much want the whole thing to be solid.
And looks like you'll need a shitload of supports as well.
That's not something I'd ever want to try and print :-)
Materal wise I'd go with pla+ if I had it.
Nylon if I could print somthing that detailed with it and abs as a last resort - 'cos I just don't like it that much :-)
I like PLA also, what do you mean by "PLA+" ??
What would be your material reccomendation? thanksQuote:
Originally Posted by Geoff
curious aa pretty much has what i am thinking. you want it as solid as you can get it. its like trying to 3d print text. text always prints best at 1 shell. like i said i cant really tell the size of this piece either bit just from the looks of it those upper areas will only print a single shell anyway then the infill will fill the rest. with 2 or even 3 shells set you are probably going to end up with a gap in tight areas. really the way to tell though is look at a preview of the gcode. every slicer works different as well so use your slicer, slice it a couple different ways, look at the preview and then decide.
I have walls of 1.5 mm in the upper side, I´m attached a new picture with some dimensions..
http://3dprintboard.com/attachment.p...tid=4733&stc=1
With 1.5mm walls, you MIGHT get 2 shells but more likely you will get 1 shell and a single line of material between to make up the difference (.4mm nozzle - 1 shell = .8mm total width 1.5-.8=.7 .7 is "too small" for an additional shell. 1 shell and 100% fill in that area is likely your best bet.
Regardless of how you print it though, 1.5mm thickness is not much for an FDM part. It's just not going to be terribly strong unless it's short. I've managed 2mm walls that were actually quite sturdy but they were very short.
thanks, I´m really learning from you guys
2mm walls are really strong.
1.5 is not bad, 1 just doesn't have much strength - but maybe more than you think.
But you have to do the maths :-)
One thing to bear in mind is that 0.1mm prints are NOT stronger than 0.2 or 0.3 mm prints.
For practical parts lower resolutions are better and quicker to print.
well one of the mistakes you've made is in copying an injection moulded design.
Those lines and reinforcements on the upper part of the flat bit. Aren't necessary for 3d printing. You could simply print that part flat and infill adds the strength as well as using less material.
Parts for injection moulding are always solid so they have to find ways to reduce volume of plastic and keep structural strength. Designing for 3d printing makes that a lot easier as you pretty much always use less material and an infilled part can be a lot stronger than a solid part.
The infill makerware uses is particularly strong. I've bounced up and down on parts with 10% infill and that's about 90kg on a small area.
Presumably you've simply copied an existing bracket/holder. Great model.
Things to look for in modifying parts for 3d print are sticky out areas you can add an incline to, so that they print without supports.
Without seeing the whole thing in place can't say what you could change. But there's usually something.