Can someone tell me why my ABS prints are splitting? I would normally think its because of cooling too quickly or something, but I don't know. I've got eight other parts, all with splitting.
http://3dprintboard.com/attachment.p...tid=4569&stc=1
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Can someone tell me why my ABS prints are splitting? I would normally think its because of cooling too quickly or something, but I don't know. I've got eight other parts, all with splitting.
http://3dprintboard.com/attachment.p...tid=4569&stc=1
Forgot to add my info: Extruding temp is 228º, and the HBP is 115º.
Build plate is way too high. Try 90c on build plate and 235 on filament. Fully enclose machine, probably the most important thing....
build plate temp is fine.
You probably need to print slower. Gives the abs more time to bond and better layer adhesion.
Also less infill should give fewer cracks.
For some reason people seem to use a lot of infill. If you're using makerware 10% will give you super strong prints. I usually go 5 or 10 for most prints. Only if I need a super strong part that gets a lot of lateral stress will I go any higher.
When i was using abs I used 120 for the build plate, anything lower and I got serious curl - even on the raft (never managed to print abs without raft).
That is on a non-enclosed system though.
I printed this at 60, with 20% infill. I thought about trying to go less infill, but wasn't sure. I'll give it a whirl...thanks for the input everyone :)Quote:
Originally Posted by curious aardvark
Layer adhesion will be better at the hotter filament temp. 20 infill will be good. Definitely enclose the sides and maybe the top if you can.
120 build plate is way above the glass point and your bottom layers won't solidify properly at that temp.
it's not, that's why his parts are splitting :p unless you live in England where its frosty all the time...Quote:
Originally Posted by curious aardvark
also use more shells and print slower, infill helps yes, but 2 shells/walls helps more.
i agree with geoff and jf totally. plate temp is too high. i have found things to get worse above 100c. i normally start 1st layer at 96-100 just to get it stuck then layer 2 drops to 90 for the rest of the print. higher not end temp though will increase layer adhesion. you may get to the point though where if your part doesnt crack then it starts curling and warping on the bed. there is alot of stress built up in some parts and something has to give!
plate temp has nothing to do with prints splitting. They're splitting way above the bed. At that point what the bed is doing is largely irrelevant.
I tried various temps when i was using abs. 120 worked best, that's all I'm saying.
Hmm I have been printing ABS at 115 religiously. Maybe I will lower it down some :P I don't have cracking problem's, but almost always have a slight warping in at the very bottom of my prints. Kind of just learned to work with it. Will try lowering my temp.
Thanks everyone, I really appreciate the input. I'll lower the bed temp and slow it down, see if that helps.
ok, you're right, we're wrong, we all done? excellent.Quote:
Originally Posted by curious aardvark
If you are printing at 120 on your heatbed then you are over compensating for something horrid, not sure what but that is pretty darn high... even for the most stubborn ABS.
Please keep in mind that temps are subjective, one machine's 120 might be another machine's 110? Depending on placement and type of thermistor, you can get quite a bit of differences. A few of our ABS machines print well with a bed of 90 and others need 100 or 110? Same goes for the print head, there is some variances there too. You really have to figure out what "your" machine likes.
We have found that slowing down and adding shells does help with the splits on ABS prints somewhat, also make sure you have no drafts and really dry filament.
Or, just switch to PLA and you won't have any of those problems.