https://knp3d.com/product/klic-n-print-3d-desktop-printer/
I saw this mentioned in another thread at $399, went to the site to check it out and saw it was down to $299. Does anyone have any experience with this printer?
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https://knp3d.com/product/klic-n-print-3d-desktop-printer/
I saw this mentioned in another thread at $399, went to the site to check it out and saw it was down to $299. Does anyone have any experience with this printer?
yes I have one.
It's essentially an unenclosed replicator dual pro. Equivalent to the flahsforge creator pro.
Seriously well made and engineered machine. AT that price - there is no reason not to get one :-)
Heavy duty all metal chassis. Just a cracking bit of kit.
And if you wanted to enclose it - it would be very easy. just add a door and lid. Seen people do that with laminating pouches and magnets.
They're clearly selling off the stock. The company makes machines for crafters and went into the 3d printer market thinking their existing customaers would all dash out and buy 3d printers.
Apparently, this did not happen.
But it's still a superb machine.
The only issue I've ever had is that I don't like the three wheel bed levelling system.
Other than that had it around 2 1/2 years. never had a single issue with any part of it.
I've seen you critical about the 3 point leveling system in another thread. Can you elaborate your dislike for the 3 point vs. the 4 point leveling plate? The Sindoh printer at my old job was a 3 point and my Tronxy kit at home is a 4 point. In theory, I thought the 3 point plate would be better because a plane can be defined by 3 points, whereas 4 points can overdefine or throw out a plane. Just curious what your thoughts are.
Also, are there any modifications you've done to your K-N-P printer? Does it have any kind of leveling assist? Also, it looks like it doesn't use plain g-code, but a different format you need to convert g-code into. Is that accurate, and if so is it a pain to deal with? I was looking at the Monoprice Maker Ultimate, but I could get the Klic-N-Print one and an inexpensive delta kit for that price, and the K-N-P printer is a dual extruder to boot.
Thanks for any input,
Regards,
Matt
Thanks for the insight on this Aardvark. I went ahead and ordered one. I noticed the filament is pretty cheap too
As far as the 3 vs.4 point leveling, I'm actually looking forward to 3 point. I currently have a monoprice maker select with 4 point and it's horrible to level.
I started using Mattercontrol instead of Cura since it has software leveling and it's been effortless, hopefully ill be able to use it with the KnP
see I don't get this.
A wheel at each corner makes it unbelieveably easy to work out what each wheel or pair of wheels is doing.
Where-as a triangle in the centre of a rectangle is almost impossible to visualise what each wheel is doing.
The back wheel can adjust a whole plane - but the two front wheels can only tilt.
Just can't get my head round it.
Say I need to drop the left side a little. On a 4 point system I simply adjust the two left wheels the same amount.
On a 3 point system - where do you start ?
None of the wheels adjusts the left side by itself. They all also change every other geometry as well.
I genuinely hate it.
Without that levelling system, I'd have used her a lot more.
The fact that I won her in the big 3dprintboard competition a couple or so years back, also means that I don't have any real money invested in her so never felt a strong desire to fight the 3 point levelling.
Now on a delta - it makes sense. No corners on a round build plate, so a three point system makes sense and is understandable.
But using a triangle to leval a rectangle - it's nonsensical.
***
Added print area cooling fan. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:537918Quote:
Also, are there any modifications you've done to your K-N-P printer? Does it have any kind of leveling assist? Also, it looks like it doesn't use plain g-code, but a different format you need to convert g-code into. Is that accurate, and if so is it a pain to deal with? I was looking at the Monoprice Maker Ultimate, but I could get the Klic-N-Print one and an inexpensive delta kit for that price, and the K-N-P printer is a dual extruder to boot.
That's it :-)
Oh and smaller diameter filament holders. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:559623
I use that with cheap 8mm carriage bolts and a vinyl tape for covering the pointy end and getting a really tight fit.
As far as converting gcode to x3g files - knp supply a convertor program to do it for you - never tried it. I've always used simplify 3d or makerware desktop with the knp - so it's never been an issue as both programs convert automatically.
https://knp3d.com/software/#knp3dconverter
I never got dual extrusion to work on my flashforge creator - but it's one of the things I do use the knp for. You need a good dribble wall. So I generally use makerware for dual extrusion as I've yet to get simplify3d to do it effectively.
I suspect it would also print a lot faster than the flashforge, given how rigid and heavy it is - but that damnable 3 point levelling just puts me off using her to her full potential.
But the knp and the he3d k200 kit would be a perfect couple :-)
I like both of your points. The Sindoh printer I used at my old job had a leveling assist function that told you how many turns of the left and right screws were needed to level the bed. I'm guessing this feature wouldn't work with a 4 point plate. However, I can see where if you already have a method using one way, the other might seem foreign.
Thanks for the extra info on the K-N-P too. Seems like a too good to be true price / performance combo. I'll have to see what I can do to get the wheels moving quick on one. At that price, they have to be running out of stock soon.
yeah get in quick.
It's a seriously engineered machine. And based on opensource, so if you should get any issues - easy to fix.
I also really like that the control panel is at the top of the machine. easy to see if you're standing up.
Oh yeah, the rubber feet fall off.
Glue them on :-) Or make better fitting feet lol
I've yet to get round to making better feet.
And yes john, I follow the onscreen levelling. But, all the knobs are i the middle of the plate. So the slightest variation translates to a larger difference at the edges of the plate.
I do a lot of bed levelling as things are being printed. With 4 points - it's dead easy. Hell any kind of levelling of a rectangular plate is simple with a screw at each corner.
Nope you will never convince me that a small triangle in the centre of a large rectangle is a good idea for levelling purposes.
With the delta the screws are set at the very edge of the plate and it's round, so makes sense.
But that is genuinely the only gripe I have with the machine and they were copying the replicator pro, so not really their fault :-)
Three points is the MINIMUM number required for levelling - not the best. Just the least you can get away with.
Printer was delivered yesterday. Unfortunately it doesn't work. When I switch it on there's no welcome screen, just two white bars. The power supply also seems to make way too much noise. I opened a support ticket, hopefully it'll be sorted out soon. Other than that, seems like a seriously well constructed machine.
That'd a bugger - mine crossed the atllantic with no issues.
Support pointed me to a loose cable, pressed it in and printer is working fine now. I opened up MatterControl 1.7, added a 'Flashforge Creator Pro Dual' profile from the drop down and hit 'connect', it connected with no problem. I adjusted the print bed size, opened one of my 'creations' and hit print. Screen reported extruder and bed temp, once it hit the target temp it started printing. No need to convert the GCode file. I let it print for a few minutes and cancelled it as I need to level the print bed.
I'll try software bed leveling now, don't want to deal with the 3 screws...
All in all, from what I've seen so far, a very nice stable printer, doesn't shake like my monoprice maker select plus does.
I might just buy another and send it to my dad..
weird mine uses x3g files, not gcode.
Ah, okay mattercontrol automatically converts.
And how do you electronically level a replicator clone ?
Yep they are very quiet machines. Not unusual for me to have to look across at it to check it's still running.
Software leveling is exactly the same as manually leveling. The difference is the software moves the print head to 3 points on the build plate. Each time it starts at 10mm above it, and you click '+' to move it down 1mm at a time until you feel resistance to moving the paper, then click '-' to back off 1mm. Next you click '+' to move it down .1mm at a time until you feel resistance, then click '-' to back off .1mm. Finally you click '+' to move down .01mm until you fell resistance, then click '+' one more time. You do this over the 3 points. It's a lot more accurate than manually leveling.
I'm looking to go with a glass build area, any suggestions?
printbite :-)
lol
So is the levelling done from the mattercontrol or the control panel ?
Sounds like best way is to do the manual levelling in the centre of the plate (take a minute or so via the control panel) where the wheels are and the electronic out at the corner edges where any slight 'off-level' effect is greatest.
Actually on the knp I'm using the plastic stick on sheet that came with it and pva glue. But then it's primarily used for flexible stuff. Interesting to try this software based levelling though.
It's done from mattercontrol on your PC.
Thanks for the updates lordkhomar. I should have one on the way soon, so I will be using the experiences you post here as my guide.
I tried leveling with the knobs, wasn't fun. They aren't 'fine' enough for me. Software leveling worked like a charm though. On another note, I tried printing with some PVA for support and the output from the left extruder was about 2 inches too far to the left. I'll need to go over the profile when I get a chance tonight to see where I can adjust that.
sounds like the software isn't applying the nozzle offset.
And yep - because of where the levelling knobs are and how close together - it's bloody difficult to get the edges of the plate level. One reason i tend to fine tune while it's printing.
Question...Klic-n-print or Qidi X-one? Looking for a first printer and these 2 seem somewhat comparable. This thread speaks well of the Klic-n-print, but $145 shipping makes it not quite such a great deal. Qidi x-one on Amazon, free shipping at $399. Hmmm, suggestions?
Thanks for the reply number40Fan, much appreciated.
So, I got mine in. Did I get a used one? There's a print started on the bed and it looks like there's a piece of adhesive that is smaller than the Kapton tape covering the whole print bed. The extruder was also out of the box and just rolling around the box. Going to get in touch with customer service tomorrow, but just wondering what other people's experience was.
At that price, as long as it works - who cares ?
You're getting an $800 printer for $300 - and you're still complaining ?
I agree with both of you. On one hand, it is a crazy value. On the other hand, I don't know the circumstances that somebody else returned it for. It looks like the bed has a Kapton film on it, but can any of you identify the second film on top of it? I'd rather not have it since I plan on using the whole bed, but I imagine that removing it will ruin the film it is stuck on. Also, there's plastic drips stuck to one of the nozzles. If it was returned, it was given the bare minimum of review before being resold to me, and I don't want to inherit somebody else's gremlins. We'll see what customer service has to say.
http://i.imgur.com/Ahg5nKg.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/JbCqKxX.jpg
I had already talked to customer service about a different issue. The print on the bed is the test print they do before they ship it out. Their customer service is great. I had an issue with the fan being too loud and they just shipped me a new printer which I received yesterday.
So, I've only had a little time to play around with the new machine. Do I need to run this slower or cooler without the print area cooling fan mod? Here's the quick test print I set up next to one from my other printer:
https://i.imgur.com/k4Wr8hz.jpg
The top is very smudged compared to the other one. I'm also more used to using Cura, so I'm not sure if I'm messing up something in Slic3r. Any suggestions?
I also ordered the KNP3D. Like you I had a noisy fan and was going to call to get it taken care of, but when I went to turn the machine on prior to calling them, it lit up, went 'click', and shut off permanently. Accugraphics got me a replacement out that day and a call tag to ship the broken one back. The new one works great and I've been testing a few different filaments through it. So far I've printed with Hatchbox Blue PLA, 3D Solutions Red PLA, and SainSmart Black ABS. The ABS I couldn't get to stick to anything till I found a post about using Hairspray on Glass with the Bed at 105C and the Extruder at 222C. It's worked great since using these settings. I did the 8x10 glass bed setup using the modified clips from 3dhobbyist.com. The clips are just a hair (1/16") too long front to back so the glass slides a bit without tape but it's been great for everything I've printed so far. I haven't needed to clean and re apply the hairspray to the glass yet but I think I might soon, only because I've scuffed it a little using a scraper impatiently trying to get things to release. I had some Hatchbox Wood and Glow show up last week but haven't had a chance to print with them yet. Hello glowing eye'd wood Groot!
I started using Slic3r, the read somewhere on here about MatterControl and was using that with good success till I got Simplify3d. I'm still playing around with the profiles trying to tweak everything for the best finish and time. Most of the default settings work well for me including 60mm/s print speed. I do use 30mm/s for the first layer. PLA seems to do good for me between 220 and 230 with 60c bed temp. ABS works great at 222 extruder and 105 bed. For the ABS I have a piece of acrylic that I prop up in front of the machine and place a plastic storage tote over top of the printer to keep the heat in. With the tote I just make sure not to wedge the filament tubes or block the rolls in any way. I haven't used rafts yet but I do print a skirt/brim around things. I've had good success with 20-30% infill with Honeycomb or Rectilinear. I made a Air Assist Nozzle for my laser yesterday, using Fusion 360. I printed using Concentric infill, which for the small size worked great.
For me, I think getting the bed aligned was the hardest part, and one that can greatly affect print quality. Using a post-it-note I went around to all three knobs and adjusted the head to just where it was slightly rough running it under them. I think the thinner the paper the better, excluding tissue paper. I did have to loosen the left extruder and level it to the right. I loosened the left, pressed it down past the right, then slowly lifted the bed to raise the left up level with the right. It took several times but I was able to get it tightened without it moving after several attempts.
This is my first 3d Printer and after finding this forum and through Curious Ardvarks guidance and messages I'm almost ready to jump on the Delta bandwagon. I really like the KNP3D and think it's a great bargain. I'm trying to get into the mindset that if it's not printing it's not making money!
I'll post some picks when I have time.
Cheers!
Is it worth buying a knp3d, even if shipping will cost me 150-200$?
Cheers
that's a tricky one - where do you live ?
Most likely you can get a qidi or monoprice froma local source that might be cheaper (essentially the same machine)
I live in Sweden, but visit america every year. So shipping would be 70$, but then it would cost another 80-110$ for the luggage home.
I can get a similar printer for 450-500$? Would prefer not to buy a printer right now, but if that price for the knp3d was a great deal, I'd buy it.
which amazon do you use ?
have a look at the new qidi: https://www.amazon.co.uk/QIDI-TECHNO...&keywords=qidi
How is it compared to the knp3d?
Knp3d is a dual extruder machine. Down side is it uses 8mm Z-Axis rods which can make the platform a bit loose. It does not have a front door, so a hood and front door w/b needed for use w/ ABS.
QiDi X-One2 is a single extruder machine. 10mm Z-Axis rods, Not sure if it has a hood or not.
Platform on my knp is anything but loose.
How would the size of the screw effect that ?
Other than that - yep.
Not the screw, the rods. They are a component with a major impact upon the build platform's rigidity. Larger dia Z-Axis rods (10-12mm) are more rigid, provide more surface for the (also larger) Z-Axis bearings to grab, and will not flex / sag to the same degree. I have an early version of the QiDi Tech 1. It originally came w/ 8mm rods, and when small zig-zag patterns were printed the build platform would occasionally resonate and shimmy back and forth with the extruder's motion. The extruder's X-Axis motion seemed particularly easily coupled into the build platfporm. I replaced the Z-Axis rods & bearings w/ 10mm dia and shifted to a carbon fiber print platform. No more shimmy, reduced reflection ripples in prints, and even better, I only RARELY have to re-level the platform. Here is a link for a similar upgrade kit. http://store.wmdproducts.com/index.p...&product_id=67
Damn you guys... I've just gone and picked up one of these, too. The price was too good to pass up. as far as the 3 points vs 4 all I have experience with is my Qidi X One 3-point leveling and it is very easy and seems to be very accurate.
Anyone concerned about the fact that this is a fire sale and likely no parts or support in the future? This appears to be a really good deal, but I am a novice and concerned about the lack of information on this printer. It says Windows/Mac OS. Does the Mac OS or Windows level matter? Maybe I missed the spec sheet.
both flashprint (best free slicer for the knp - select creator pro) and simplify 3d (best commercial slicer) work on both windows and macs - so no problem with compatibility.
As far as parts go - it's based on the original makerbot replicator dual. Probably the most copied 3d printer ever.
As such, compatible parts are easy to get.
No clue on what mac os you need - but windows 7 on up is fine.
Did some work for a customer on a mac recently.
What a piece of junk !
Had to update it to latest os - jeezusss, horrendous. How you people put up with it is beyond me :-)
What's with the one button mouse ?
Scrolling in windows would have me putting a hammer through it inside a day. Scroll bars show up when they feel like it, no alternative for scrolling. You get the feeling whoever wrote the os - does not use it.
If you want a non-windows 10 machine, go linux - definitely NOT apple.
Well, my KnP came yesterday evening and it looked good. I got this because it was a screaming deal and thought it'd be a good way to be ready to print several colors without having to change the filament spool on my Qidi XOne single every time.
As noted it had a small test print left behind and a strange small Kapton tape square that was smaller than the 150x150 build area. Not sure what that is all about. I removed it as I plan to use a glass plate.
Assembly was easy, installing the extruders, filament tubes and spools took maybe 15 minutes. But... Houston we have a problem. When I fired it up the screen came on, then went out. Cycled the power switch and came back on. Hmmm... I installed the filaments into the extruders following the online manual (preheat, feed filament until it extrudes), no problem. But now the machine will not power up at all. Nuthin', no lights, no noises... nuthin'. I pulled the cover plate from the bottom to look for a fuse... didn't find one or see any obvious problem. I have started a support ticket online and will call them tomorrow.
Also, a question for CA... Simplify3D does not have a selection for the KnP in the configuration dropdown. I went to the KnP website and it had a .fff configuration file set available for download. I did that and imported it into S3D and those choices are available in the print process configuration menu, but not in the overall device configuration manager drop down. Is this the way this is supposed to work? Just curious why S3D doesn't have a KnP config setting in the device drop down like for my Qidi. I thought S3D was supposed to be pretty much universally compatible. I haven't had the chance to try this for a test print yet because the printer doesn't fire up.
And for other folks thinking about the KnP realize you need to do another step to convert the gcode from your slicer to x3g. KnP provides a free converter but this is a minor PITA.... more files to manage and more file clutter. Not sure why they can't or just didn't make the firmware able to recognize and work with straight gcode.