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I'm looking to get a small bracket, stl attached, 3D printed and know almost nothing about it.
I have got 3 quotes:
0.178mm slice in ABS Stratasys £49 Black/White
0.100mm slice height in MF Onyx £57 Black
or 0.25 mm slice in ABS Stratasys £80 Not sure on colour.
What difference would I notice between them all?? I am tempted to go for the middle priced one??
well apart from needing a few supports in the corners - it's a pretty simple print.
personally I would not get it in abs.
what's it for ?
ie what sort of weight will it support ?
I'll happily print you one for £25 :-)
PET would be my favourite, better than abs in all strength and heat aspects and a little more rigid as well as much better layer bonding - which seeing as those uprights are all vertical - is pretty important. .
Hell if it's not going to get hot - pla would probably be as good. But PET would most likely be the best.
where's the middle quote from ? ie: what material is it ? MF does not ring any bells.
>I'll happily print you one for £25 :-)
Many thanks for the offer. Iive had a recommend for the MF Onyx - Markforged Onyx Nylon with chopped carbon fibres - so gone for that- https://markforged.com/product/onyx-filament/
Wonder if that filament would work in other printers??
It is for an AV item of kit - HDFury Diva and Vertex2 - https://hdfury.com/product/4k-vertex2-18gbps/. Once box, 500g or so, is slid in and cables connected, it should have a pretty stress free life. Just a little warmth at the display.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4095760
There may be others with HDFury gear in the same boat - I'd be happy to post on AV forum??
lol no the markforge is atwo filament system, a nylon carrier and a second extruder that adds the carbon fibre.
Tough stuff and yes markforge do not do cheap anything.
To put this into perspective cost wise. the bracket uses less than 40gms of filament and would take around 3 hours. I sliced it :-)
1kg onyx = $190
so 40gms - $7.6
It's approximately 8x more expensive than normal filament.
So even if it would work in a different printer (which is doubtful) it's way too pricey for anyone without a markforge to bother with :-)
You can nget nylon with carbon fibre for dstandard machines - about 1/5 the cost of onyx.
I'm not a huge fan - never been convinced that the carbon adds anything other than a black colour and a slightly stiffer part.
So that price for the part - while most of this forum's members are going HOW MUCH ! - is actually a reasonable cost for the materials, time and process involved.
the abs prices are total rip offs though ;-)
But yep happy to make anything for anyone.
$400 for a hdmi hub. wow !
I guess if you do a lot of 4k or higher stuff you need something like that.
I'm still running on old fashioned hd :-)
Well, I've only been interested in this for a few days, but the Markforged One is a single filament printer and Onyx can be printed on its own:
>It can be printed alone or reinforced with one of our continuous fibers to give strength comparable to aluminum. Use Onyx for anything from tooling and fixtures to end-use parts.
And the main pic here only has a single spool holder - https://markforged.com/3d-printers/onyx-one
And wasn't aware that there were other carbon reinforced filaments. Live and learn!!
That is what I thought - a reasonable price compared with almost double for ABS. And the print job was done overnight 8+ hours.
HDMI hub - small beer really compared to a Sony 590ES 4K lamp projector!! Sony has a strange HDMI wiring setup, so a normal switcher gets confused and doesn't work. Just changed from 2001 InFocus X1 800x600 to Sony 4K. Quarantine and lockdown toys!!
OK - thanks, I'll pass on the message.
I might have another job for a boom gooseneck nylon swivel block. The black bit in the attached picture. It will be slightly larger than this one, which is for a Mirror sailing dingy with mast/boom diameters of around 50mm. My mast/boom will be 83 and 63mm diameter, so I'm estimating that the block will be around 40mm x 38mm x 55-60mm But haven't finished designing it. Couple of 10.5 or 12.5mm holes for the bolts/fixings.
Attachment 15438
looks doable.
nylon with carbon fibre added is fairly common.
And a LOT cheaper - even for the good stuff - than onyx.
Yeah the onyx can be used singly or as part of themark forge process. I have to say that the parts they make with the continuous fibre reinforcement are bloody amazing. Really really strong.
Had a go at bending a few bits over the years. Impressive stuff.
This is probably a pretty good analogue to the onyx stuff: https://www.amazon.co.uk/eSUN-Filame...ustrial&sr=1-4
But 1/4 the price.
The casrbon fibre actually makes it easier to print with on a normal machine, as it reduces the viscosity and natural stringiness of the nylon.
It will eat through a brass nozzle fairely quickly - but they're pence to replace.
So i guess the real question here is: why don't you have a 3d printer ?
Thanks. Why don't I have one - haven't got round to it yet. But with lock down??? But I have to think of things to make with it??
What would be a reasonable machine - Artillery X1, Prusa etc etc?? Would an enclosed one be better to retain heat in the bed??
A fellow boater thought the gooseneck part would delaminate with the forces involved??
hi, we can print this for CAD 60
If interested please contact us via our website: Custom Prototypes
Regards,
Shab
Quote:
Originally Posted by CRMS
>hi, we can print this for CAD 60.....
Thanks - but I am in UK. Shipping included??
machine wise it really depends on budget.
having got all the different types of fdm machine - I would go corexy in future.
However if you want to print nylon - then an enclosed machine is a really good idea - also one with a hi-temp hotend.
don't seem to be able to get qidi machines over here at the moment - shame as they are all enclosed and come with a 300c hotend.
But you could get a flashforge pro and add the high temp hotend fairly easily: https://technologyoutlet.co.uk/produ...003729df&_ss=r
As far as delamination goes - it's not usually an issue. certainly not with nylon - nylon does not delaminate if printer properly.
To be fair - pretty much only abs does, unless printed in a hot enclosure.
All the other plastics if printed correctly have near perfect layer bonding.
And then there's the orientation you print the part in - it's usually pretty easy to make sure any serious forces are directed in the right direction.
As for what you would make - well anything you can design :-)
You've got the hard part down - you can already do cad.
Replacement parts for broken things, new things for one off applications - you seem to have enough interests to keep the printer running all day every day :-)
And if you get realy bored you can download some trinket off thingiverse and make crap :-)
My last 3 designs were a phone holder (vertical and horizontal models) and an ipad holder, that all lock into my cobra tripod. Way stronger and easier to change over than the crappy little screw in camera attachment. Which broke anyway. Fortunately it has a quick change system that does not rely on the little screw, like most tripods do.
Once you've printed a couple items, you'll be amazed at just how many things you realise you can actually make.
I3's are tricky things to enclose and have a number of issues - more or less depending on who made it.
For an unenclosed single extruder - the twotrees sapphire pro is an awesome machine. Two basic mods and you've got an incredible machine for very little money.
Enclosing would be interesting - particualrly as mine's rigged for direct drive feeding and has a filament holder that extende abouve the frame.
But you're only a couple hours down the motorway from me, I'm 10 minutes from jct 11 m42. - so when/if lockdown stops you're welcome to pop up and have a play :-)
The other thing is that you pretty much NEVER get a design right first time. Particularely with the wifn surfer widget. And if you are goign to pay someone each time you make an adjustment to it - it's going to get expensive really quickly.
Look at it this way - the sapphire pro is 6 hdmi brackets or three gooseneck joints.
It should be pretty easy to add a hi-temp hotend to it. Something I'm looking at.
Many thanks for your comprehensive reply.
Just got the HDMI bracket. Well impressed, the nylon/chopped carbon is very smooth and Z axis really good. Having seen how solid the n/cc is, I'm sure it would be fine for my gooseneck block.
Having seen how solid the n/cc is, I'm sure it would be fine for my gooseneck block.
Which mods on TT Sapphire Pro - enclosure and ??
Qidi machines at - https://www.3djake.uk/qidi-tech/x-plus
I'll keep looking and thinking, but think nylon chopped carbon capability would be good.
>wifn surfer widget - google didn't produce anything??
>hi-temp hotend - I assume that is heading to 250C instead of 120C ish??
Is the slicing software also used for design/drawing up an object.. Or something else??
Yes, would be great to come up and talk after lockdown but my credit card might be bent before lockdown ends.
lmao - wind surfer widget - your gooseneck joint :-)
I either tyoe faster than I think or I think faster than I type - or often both at the same time, sometimes I can't be arsewd to fix the typos ;-)
lol drop me a pm and we can have a phone chat.
yeah i saw the qidi at 3d jakes - not the model I was looking for.
They used to be on amazon - but dissappeared.
A high temp hotend is one that goes to at least 300c :-) most decent standard hotends (ie: not ender 3 or most budget printers) will run at 260 fairly steadily.
The esun cf nylon recommended 280c.
So you need a better heater cartridge and an all metal hotend. And a hardened steel or sapphire tipped nozzle would also be a very good idea.
Carbon fibre bits are really abrasive and will eat a brass nozzle fairly swiftly.
Also with a hi temp hotend you can print polycarbonate - seriously tough stuff but needs 270-280 for decent prints. I've done a couple small prints at 260, but it's not ideal.
With a lot of the proper industrial plastics the heat of printing effects the final crystallisation and strength and properties of the part.
There are other things you can do to strengthen parts: pla can be annealed - basically cooking at low temp in an oven. Or you can pack a print in fine ground salt and cook it at high oven temps so that it remelts and reforms as a solid block.
Essnetially you're using the print as it's own model and forging it.
There's lots of fun stuff to play with :-)
currently trying to print a couple of innovative 608 bearings: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4628063
First two efforts total failure. i think this could replace the iris box as an: 'if you can print this you can print anything' test print. :-)
iris box: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1817180