Printable View
Hi Everyone
I have a Creality3D Ender-4 that I've had quite a few problems with but I thought I'd ask about the problems I've been having just getting it to print the skirt of the object I'm trying to print. Here's a picture of what it does:
Attachment 11762
Thoughts? I'm all out of ideas.
Thanks
*Edit-
PLA at 200C and bed at 60C
Slow the Print Speed down for the First layer.
I print At 32% or about 3.6mm^3 Per Sec on the First layer, then using "Change At Z" I change the Print speed back to my normal 86% or about 8.3mm^3 Per Sec.
The first layer is the most important layer and should adhere to the bed, and I normally print this layer slower than the other layers to get the best adhesion possible.
My setting may be to fast for some 3D Printers though you understand where I am going with this.
I posted a reply here with images shortly after yours (Roberts_Clif) and it said it needed to be approved by a moderator. At this point I'm not sure if it will show up anytime soon, so I hope one without images will work. Your solution made my prints much better, and I have several successful and usable prints now! Still a few problems like the nozzle rubbing/grinding against already printed material, seams, spaghetti, and "boogers."
I want to thank you so much for getting me off the ground! I had been banging my head against the wall for a long time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by osterac
This could be caused by Z_Axis not moving the correct distance,
This could be caused by not enough Stepper motor current to the Z-Axis Stepper motor.
Or
It Could be because the Z-Axis is incorrectly adjusted.
(The lead-screw could be binding / Tension on the wheels could too High causing drag)
Post your slicer and slicer settings this may help
think you need 10 posts to be allowed to add links and pictures if it is not an OPQuote:
Originally Posted by osterac
Hi Again
I'm using cura for everything, and I use a piece of printer paper to level my bed (adjust until the paper doesn't drag against the nozzle).
Settings in attached (zipped) PDF.
I am a little lower where you can just feel the drag of the paper under the nozzle.
.3 Layer Thickness
.8 top/Bottom Thickness (Should be a multiple of .3 so I would change to .6 or .9)
.04 Infill overlap (I would suggest .15 - as actual layer width is about .48)
Retraction Distance 4.5 Retraction retract Speed 20mm/s
Z-Hop height mine is .075 ~ .1
Fan Speed 50%
I use Cura 15.04.6 Most of the time though have printed many with the new Cura 3.xx.x.
I like the feature where you can print the two surface walls at .14 and the a single Infill at .28 or print three surface walls at .1 and then a single at .3
(Truly speeds up print time on a fine surface model)
Thanks for the tips
I entered your settings and printed 3D benchy at .3 layer thickness. I attached some images of how it came out. What do you think?
Thanks
Not looking shabby!
Now you should be a a good postilion to Print a Temperature Tower.
I would add a parts cooling fan you will surprised how well they work at eliminating the fuzz.
OK,
So I tried to print the temperature tower, but if I print the STL it doesn't print at the right temperatures and when I printed the gcode the filament got jammed. I'll probably get the fans too.
I tried printing a calibration cube, but I noticed that the cube was skewed - it had 2 sides that were square and 2 that weren't (horizontally). Pic attached. It's about .5 to .6mm off, and it's enough so that when I try to print a lego it won't mate with a real lego. I don't know how I could correct this by adjusting steps per mm.
Thanks
So I'm not sure what it was that I did but the printer now only needs some adjustments to steps per mm, but I'm having trouble figuring that out. The ender 4 source code is posted here and I tried using the Arduino IDE to edit the configuration.h file and insert the new steps per mm values, but when I try to upload to the printer, it says "too many decimal points in number." If I try to get the board info from my printer it says this:
BN: Unknown board
VID: 0403
PID: 6001
SN: Upload any sketch to obtain it
The options to adjust steps per mm from within the printer's UI are disabled. Any thoughts on what to do?
Thanks so much
*EDIT*
it was a typo.
Now it says
"Error compiling for board Arduino Mega ADK."
*EDIT2*
Here's the full log
Code:Arduino: 1.8.7 (Windows Store 1.8.15.0) (Windows 10), Board: "Arduino Mega ADK"
sketch\stepper.cpp: In function 'st_get_position_mm':
sketch\stepper.cpp:1094:101: internal compiler error: Segmentation fault
float st_get_position_mm(AxisEnum axis) { return st_get_position(axis) / axis_steps_per_unit[axis]; }
^
Please submit a full bug report,
with preprocessed source if appropriate.
See <http://gcc.gnu.org/bugs.html> for instructions.
lto-wrapper.exe: fatal error: C:\Program Files\WindowsApps\ArduinoLLC.ArduinoIDE_1.8.15.0_x86__mdqgnx93n4wtt\hardware\tools\avr/bin/avr-gcc returned 1 exit status
compilation terminated.
c:/program files/windowsapps/arduinollc.arduinoide_1.8.15.0_x86__mdqgnx93n4wtt/hardware/tools/avr/bin/../lib/gcc/avr/5.4.0/../../../../avr/bin/ld.exe: error: lto-wrapper failed
collect2.exe: error: ld returned 1 exit status
exit status 1
Error compiling for board Arduino Mega ADK.
This report would have more information with
"Show verbose output during compilation"
option enabled in File -> Preferences.
Well that problem is solved. I think I just had the wrong programmer selected - parallel programmer works. I was even able to unlock some cool menu options in ultralcd.h, including the ability to set your steps per mm from the printer menu itself. Just a matter of deleting the comment (//) commands.
Anyway, right now I have an issue with gaps between lines that I was hoping to get some help with. I've tried compensating by adjusting initial layer width and flow, but I get inconsistencies with the width of my print from one layer to the next, and on one circular print I'm getting a large blob on the outer wall. here's what it does with the first layer:
Attachment 11998
It's not immediately evident here, but it seems to do a better job with one half than the other half. In some prints, half is perfectly connected and the other half is falling apart.
Anyone know what could be causing this?
Thanks