Waves in corners?

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08-11-2015, 01:33 AM
3dcrgr

Waves in corners?

Before I keep explaining the problem I would like to apologize if I called this issue wrong name. I am new to this and I hope you can correct me.
Maybe this is why I can't find it in forums or other places.

After every 90 degree corner my printer makes these tiny consistent and unnoticeable waves along walls. Its extra visible with the transparent blue PLA filament. You can barely see it but its there.
Is there anything I can do to solve this?

http://s8.postimg.org/41yqkly01/IMG_1398.jpg
http://s8.postimg.org/q68whhm5d/IMG_1397.jpg
08-11-2015, 02:49 AM
Mjolinor

Slow down your print speed and acceleration settings if you have acceleration enabled. If you do not have acceleration enabled then enable it.
08-11-2015, 05:45 AM
3dcrgr

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mjolinor

Slow down your print speed and acceleration settings if you have acceleration enabled. If you do not have acceleration enabled then enable it.

Already printing at 45mm/s. Will lower to 35mm/s and try again.
This acceleration needs to be enabled in the printer settings or in the slicer? I use Makerbot software.
08-12-2015, 11:59 PM
jfkansas

Acceleration is turned on in the front panel or with Rep G. Acceleration is tunable with Rep G when connnected via USB. Acceleration sounds like it speeds things up, however it actually controls how fast the mechanisms speed up and slow down. Those ripples are a common artifact of stopping too quickly and it makes the whole assembly shake. You can't see it with the naked eye. There are some good guides if you search for Sailfish documentation.

Another thing that also helps is to lessen the weight of the print head. If you find yourself printing mostly with only one extruder then it is good to remove one of the steppers and extruder/wiring. It's usually better to remove the left side since the right side is default and actuates the x motion position switch.
08-13-2015, 08:43 AM
curious aardvark

another approach would be to say: It's barely noticeable - why worry about it ?
08-13-2015, 10:06 AM
jfkansas

I'd call that a little more than barely noticeable. Most likely though that could be sanded out pretty easily. I generally try to tune my acceleration so I an run at about 100mm/s with one stepper/extruder removed and have minimal corner defects.
08-14-2015, 05:26 AM
Sebastian Finke

Corner ringing. See here for more info. Pay particular attention section 5.1.3.2
08-14-2015, 06:11 AM
curious aardvark

pleased to say I've never had any of those issues in the pictures.

Either that or I just don't examine things with a magnifying glass and winge about it (lol)

If it works it's good. Hell even the stuff I print at 0.4 layer height looks better than those pics.
08-14-2015, 06:17 AM
Mjolinor

Quote:

Originally Posted by curious aardvark

pleased to say I've never had any of those issues in the pictures.

Either that or I just don't examine things with a magnifying glass and winge about it (lol)

If it works it's good. Hell even the stuff I print at 0.4 layer height looks better than those pics.

It must be Simplify 3D (thought I would get it in before you for a change)
08-14-2015, 09:58 AM
AmyInNH

Thanks Sebastian!
08-16-2015, 07:02 AM
3dcrgr

Quote:

Originally Posted by curious aardvark

another approach would be to say: It's barely noticeable - why worry about it ?

Because I have high standards. I don't want it to look this way and I know it can be solved. But I don't know how.. yet.
08-16-2015, 07:13 AM
Mjolinor

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3dcrgr

Because I have high standards. I don't want it to look this way and I know it can be solved. But I don't know how.. yet.

You should know how by now, all the answers are in the replies.

Good engineering is knowing when a product is suitable, bad engineering is wanting everything to be perfect.
08-16-2015, 08:11 AM
jimc

All the info here on speed and acceleration are good but beyond that its normal and part of the printer design. This is the major thing that core xy printers were desingd for. That reduced the resonace that travels through the gantry. I have prints here done on a $80k stratasys and even that has ringing artifacts. If it matters to you then print the other perimeter super slow and turn your acceleration way down.
08-17-2015, 06:48 AM
curious aardvark

Just checked the last couple of things I printed and I don't get 'waves' at the corners.
But then I've never messed with any of the printer's default print settings - other than switching acceleration on.

I also don't mess with them from simplify3d either.
Most problems are solved by filament temperature, print speed and keeping the machine clean and greased.
That said I've got the biog standard flashforge creator. And from what I've seen, it prints as well as machines costing many times as much.
08-17-2015, 07:14 AM
jfkansas

Corner ringing gets more pronounced when you are printing at higher speeds. So if a user is printing at a ridiculously slow 30-40mm/s then they will probably never see any ringing. Bump that up to a more reasonable 80-100mm/s then acceleration settings become much more important to reduce these effects. Removing the left stepper and extruder helps also to reduce print head weight.
08-20-2015, 01:36 PM
AmyInNH

First time PLA printing too

Due to trouble with ABS print adhering when printing long narrow item, curling edges, I changed for the first time to PLA (Microcenter/Inland) this past week. It then printed the same ribbed edges as you got. In Simplify3D, I changed the filament diameter to something smaller, 1.7, and the rib edges are completely gone. PLA now printing as well as ABS, can run my nail down the side and it's absolutely smooth. One odd thing still happening with PLA, it was consistently not extruding the first inch of the print.

I then changed to another color PLA and noticed the filament holder is custom to FlashForge specific spools and when snapping on Microcenter's, it's not really seated on the spool and therefore unable to roll off smoothly. I ran a small test and this one has drag so much that the extruder's having a hard time pulling the filament in, BIG gaps in the first layer. I was just going to snap the flanges off the ends of the FlashForge spool holders to get rid of the drag but then I'd have to finagle something to keep the spools from dropping off, as they unwound. I'm stopping to print new ones from thingiverse.

So, two thoughts, possibly you need to drop the diameter setting for your filament and/or your spool holder is dragging preventing the appropriate amount of filament from extruding.
08-20-2015, 07:33 PM
jfkansas

Arbitrarily just changing filament size isn't the best way to go about making that change. In all things to adjust, average filament size is the easiest to measure and keep constant, along with the nozzle diameter. It is better to keep the filament size constant and adjust the feedstock multiplier, or extrusion multiplier. Slicers have different names for it.
08-24-2015, 07:08 AM
AmyInNH

Net result is identical is it not, increasing extrusion quantity? Two variables serving the exact same purpose? A filament diameter setting change from 1.8 to 1.65 equates to setting a multiplier to 1.09? As a user, I find a .15 change in filament diameter intuitive while an additional .09 in a multiplier less obvious in purpose and quantity.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jfkansas

Arbitrarily just changing filament size isn't the best way to go about making that change. In all things to adjust, average filament size is the easiest to measure and keep constant, along with the nozzle diameter. It is better to keep the filament size constant and adjust the feedstock multiplier, or extrusion multiplier. Slicers have different names for it.
08-24-2015, 08:34 AM
jfkansas

Quote:

Originally Posted by AmyInNH

Net result is identical is it not, increasing extrusion quantity? Two variables serving the exact same purpose? A filament diameter setting change from 1.8 to 1.65 equates to setting a multiplier to 1.09? As a user, I find a .15 change in filament diameter intuitive while an additional .09 in a multiplier less obvious in purpose and quantity.

What slicer are we talking about? Makerware? Yes the net result is the same, but complicates things since you are changing 2 numbers. When you are changing filaments the multiplier can stay pretty much the same, just measure filament and good to go. For example I use the same ex multiplier on NinjaFlex and ABS, just alter the filament diameter to actual. You really can't measure extrusion multiplier, but you can measure filament. Multiplier is best guess based on print quality and surface quality.
08-26-2015, 05:33 AM
Sebastian Finke

Quote:

Originally Posted by curious aardvark

And from what I've seen, it prints as well as machines costing many times as much.

Been my experience too. All it takes is a little patience...
08-26-2015, 08:12 AM
3dcrgr

I tried for the past couple of days to install ReplicatorG and changes the acceleration settings but i'm out of luck.
Anyone succeeded installing ReplicatorG and recognize FFCP on Windows 10?
08-26-2015, 08:21 AM
3dcrgr

-deleted-
sorry for double post
08-26-2015, 08:31 AM
Sebastian Finke

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3dcrgr

I tried for the past couple of days to install ReplicatorG and changes the acceleration settings but i'm out of luck.
Anyone succeeded installing ReplicatorG and recognize FFCP on Windows 10?

Did you enable acceleration on your printer?
08-26-2015, 08:43 AM
3dcrgr

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sebastian Finke

Did you enable acceleration on your printer?

I did. But ringing is still horrible. I learned that acceleration settings can be changes through ReplicatorG for the FlashForge Creator Pro.
Is there an other way? ReplicatorG fails to recognize my printer. Probably because of Windows 10.
08-26-2015, 09:27 AM
Sebastian Finke

What is your print feed? slow it right down to, say, 20. Make sure your printer is on a stable worktop. No wobbles. Make sure all your belts are tight and there is no backlash.
08-30-2015, 03:51 AM
3dcrgr

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sebastian Finke

What is your print feed? slow it right down to, say, 20. Make sure your printer is on a stable worktop. No wobbles. Make sure all your belts are tight and there is no backlash.

I am sort of got rid of this effect with acceleration settings. You must really look for it to notice.
I kept the print speed at 30.

About ReplicatorG - it did not work because of Windows 10. (it always said the port was already in use)
I had to install VirtualBox with Windows 8.1, pass the USB port and only then ReplicatorG recognized my printer.
08-30-2015, 01:20 PM
Sebastian Finke

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3dcrgr

About ReplicatorG - it did not work because of Windows 10.

Yeah, this issue seems to come up a lot with Windows 10...