AirWolf 3D Wolfbit - No More Sticking to Build Plate

Airwolf 3D has introduced a new product, Wolfbite, designed to improve 3D printers' performance, particularly when working with ABS filament. Wolfbite can be applied directly to the printer to bond ABS plastic parts to a heated 3D printer build platform, preventing lifting and allowing for easy removal once cooled. Especially effective for larger printed items, Wolfbite prevents the warping that can be unfortunately common when printing larger objects in ABS plastic. Wolfbite was introduced, and is being demonstrated, at the Inside 3D Printing Conference & Expo. For further details, check out the full article: http://3dprint.com/20321/airwolf-3d-wolfbite/ ‎


Below is an image of a 2-fl oz container of Wolfbite:
http://3dprint.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/air3.png

Hmm, Aquanet hairspray, 2 for $5 (11oz each) so $5 for 22oz vs $20 for 2oz. It would cost $220 dollars to get the same amount of wolfbite in oz as $5 in hairspray which works perfectly fine. It's 44 times more expensive by ounce. Does not have me sold.

I'm liking Ultem (PEI) as a build surface. Nothing to reapply, no residue or material contamination. Small parts easily pop off when done. Bigger parts sometimes cooling to room temp and a gentle coaxing around the perimeter with a putty knife, but parts hold well on build and don't break apart when removed.

If it doesn't work for Taulman series, then forget about it.
3D lac is much more easier to apply, works with both ABS and PLA and smells nice!!

From reading some of your comments, I guess I'm one of those guys that can't make hairspray or other stuff work on ABS. I tried Aquanet and Purple glue sticks, which worked with short print times (2-3 hours), but after that, prints start warping, or it sticks so well that I ruin the Kapton tape. I tried this WolfBite yesterday on a 13 hour print...and it held all the way, and with a light tap it popped off the glass with no film on the bottom. Plus, one application can be used a few more times without re-applying. So, for MY purposes, $20 for a 2 oz bottle that has over a 100 uses, is well worth it. Less material I waste, less time I waste.

If I ever have any lifting issues (and when the ambient temperature is around 28c, thats not usually a problem...) I use cheap $2 shop hairspray on the kapton. It cost me $2 and I haven't even gone through half of it and I've had it for 6 months, it's used before every print now just for piece of mind...

This wolfbite as fancy as it sounds would have to be pretty cheap for me to bother investing in some, and even then it would only be for the catchy name.

It needs to come down in price, but it works exactly as they say it does. The parts are locked hard to the glass when hot but as soon as the bed cools down they are as loose as if you had pried them up. It also goes a long ways, one dip of the foam brush into the bottle will cover a whole 200x200 glass plate and you get quite a few prints out of it. So far hairspray has done nothing but dirty up my print bed and peel up when the parts started to warp. With that said just plain painters tape would cure the warp issues but then I do not get the shiny bottom.

Will I buy it again? That remains to be seen.

EDIT: A gallon of the stuff is also $1280 to put it into perspective.

chemicals are expensive. thats the normal price for a gallon of red automotive paint so im pretty much numb to prices like that. if the stuff works and it goes a long way then i guess it could be worth it. in the long run its probably cheaper than those crappy buildtak sheets.

Auto paint is pretty expensive, hence why people think it is OK to plasti dip a car as a long term(intended results differ from reality) substitute to real paint.

Anyone ever try this?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CptanPanic

Anyone ever try this?

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Yup, works great so long as you keep the plate clean and do not let it build up. Once the plate cools parts will either pop off with little force or at times they will spring off by themselves.