Guys, what do you recommend for printing with PLA? What do you put on your build plate? I've been using Blue painters tape, but I know not everyone does this. What do you guys prefer? What do you find works the best?
Guys, what do you recommend for printing with PLA? What do you put on your build plate? I've been using Blue painters tape, but I know not everyone does this. What do you guys prefer? What do you find works the best?
I'm very happy printing on glass using glue stick on the surface (no hotbed), applying it after slightly wetting the surface of the stick works very well... too well sometimes but I keep a hammer at hand to tap any stubborn parts off the printing bed.
I'm using the 2090 Tape on a unheated bed. I wipe the surface with some 90% alcohol and it sticks to the PLA so well I often cannot even remove it. I prefer it over a heatbed+hairspray because I don't get that problem where the initial layers bulge out due to the heat.
For PLA, try printing on cold glass with Hairspray applied to it.
The hairspray must have in it's composition VA/VP:water soluble copolymers that make PLA stick to it.
I've used it for two years and works great.
I usually use glue sticks. Works pretty well. Funkymonk, I never thought of cold glass, but that seems brilliant.
I use diluted PVA glue. Works wonders on a heated print bed and pops off nicely when cooled. I used to use blue painter's tape but had problems with the tape lifting, plus difficulties getting it off the bed when it did work.
My vote would be for Elmer's purple glue sticks on a glass build plate. Apply a thin layer when the plate is cold. Works like a charm; easy clean up and builds pop right off after cooling. Works well with ABS, PLA and Nylon.
Aquanet hairspray.
Hi Guys,
I just recently bought a Duplicator 4 after 25 years as a traditional model maker. I too struggled with the whole "How do I make my prints stick on the bed" thing and my solution is to use a glass plate that I spread PVA glue (white school glue) across as thinly as possible. I let the heated bed cure the glue and simply print. I havent had a single print fail since. The benefit as well is that you let your print cool and simply soak the plate and print in water...The PVA dissolves and the print floats free. This works well with both ABS and PLA
Hope it helps
Peter
I just use black painter's tape for PLA. Sometimes if I print with Nylon I will put a coating of Elmers No-run glue on top of the tape. Seems to work the best for me, but I must admit that I haven't tried many other options.
No glue, tape, spray, juice....just a good clean heated sheet of glass. I keep the heat on the whole print or the glass will contract and pop the printed part off. Every other print, I give the glass a good wipe down with isopropyl after scrape with a boxcutter blade.
Mendel90, 0.3mm j-head Mk5 1.75mm, and PLA from Diamond Age here in NZ.
Makerfarm 8" presa i3 J-head MK-IV .5 PLA. Clean glass with Aquanet SuperHold. I spray 2 medium coats. Let dry for 10 min or turn on the heat bed. When done printing pull the glass and let cool. The sound will let you know when it has removed it self.
aBraindDump
Aquanet Extra-super-hold hairspray works good for PLA
I am wondering if frosted/sandblasted Pyrex would work for ABS.
thick ABS juice applied to hot Pyrex will bubble and create a rough surface too.
Lately I have been using nonscented hairspray on a glass build plate. Works like a charm 99.9% of the time. I don't understand why more people don't do this. It's a really affordable method and seems to work better than anything else.
Acrylic works best for me until now.
I'm just reading the reason why I can't get the hairspray on a mirror work well yet,
thanks Funkymonk, mine doesn't have VA/VP...
Is this for use with ABS or PLA?Quote:
Originally Posted by intohim
I have tried different types of tape, and 2 different hairsprays, but NEVER have ABS stick correctly. I purchased a heated build plate from ebay, but it is only that.... still need to figure out how to wire it in and control it in addition to having a better platform for it to be clamped to.
I use AquaNet Professional Hair Spray Unscented for PLA on Pyrex glass plate 60-70C.
Works great, part pops off after it cools.
Glass cleaner will clean over spray....
I use Elmer's Disappearing Purple Glue sticks... with my PLA prints it sticks so well, the only way I can remove the piece afterwards is by putting the glass bed in the freezer for 5 minutes. After about 5 mins the part just falls off the glass. ABS does well with the glue sticks as well, for me.
For ABS, I have found that ABS juice works on Pyrex glass without Kapton/PET tape.
just heat up the glass bed and apply the juice in puddles so that it ends up boiling and leaving a thick rough plastic surface.......Of course it stinks.....