Hello,
Wondering if anyone has tried Micro Swiss MK10 All Metal Hotends on there Flashforge Printers? http://www.micro-swiss.com/#!product-page/cv9c/29551477-6081-c30f-04fe-cece31e3ba6f
Printable View
Hello,
Wondering if anyone has tried Micro Swiss MK10 All Metal Hotends on there Flashforge Printers? http://www.micro-swiss.com/#!product-page/cv9c/29551477-6081-c30f-04fe-cece31e3ba6f
Looks like nice quality.
I've been using mine for the past few months. It works great. I also upgraded to an aluminum carriage and can print nylon and polycarbonate now.
How hot can you print with just the All metal Hot end? Does it allow you to print faster? Where can a guy buy an aluminum carriage?
The Flashforge has a firmware limit of 280C using Sailfish firmware (which is probably what yours is running). I imagine the hotend can withstand higher temperatures, but it's difficult to make the flashforge go past its maximum of 280C. It does allow printing faster so long as your filament can handle higher temps. I bought my aluminum carriage from http://shop.raffle.ch/shop/alucarriage-dual/ . It's expensive, but worth it if you want to print polycarbonate or nylon.
Cool, What's your thoughts on printing polycarbonates out of your flashforge. Is it a difficult material to print? Warping? What temp do you print it at?
Thanks for your input and time!
Polycarbonate is very difficult to get to stick to the printbed. I have to use a glue stick even with the bed at 100C. I print the PC at 280C and it does pretty well. I dry out the filament for a few hours before I print with it (just like nylon) or else it has too much moisture and the layers do not adhere well. Other than that, it's able to produce nice quality prints. It's just more difficult to get to work correctly.
Wondering if one could just print a new carrier in polycarbonate instead of buying the aluminum one? If it would work?
I made a brass carriage for mine from 3mm sheet and it works very well.
That sounds great! I'm interested to see what it looks like
That my Friend, is Awesome!Quote:
Originally Posted by Mjolinor
One more question, does your settings change for printing a certain material after installing the all metal hot end? Or did they stay the same? I'm talking like temp and extrusion miltiplyer setting.
Thanks!
I haven't changed any of the print settings since installing the new hot end. I haven't noticed a difference in prints before and after changing the hotend (which is a good thing).
I decided to buy some. I installed them no problem and am printing right now. So far no problems. After I do some more printing I'll post here if I notice any difference. Right now I'm glad I don't have to worry about ptfe tubes anymore!
Been printing all day yesterday, and started a long print today. So far I've had no problems with these all metal hot ends. Everything seems to be printing the same. I'm very happy with them so far. No more Teflon Tube to worry about. If I do run into a problem in the future, I'll post here. But I dont foresee any problems.
I just installed this last week and so far it is printing great. I am running my first print using some Hatchbox Black PETG at 245c.
What thermal paste did you guys use?
Mine came with the thermal paste. I don't remember the brand.Quote:
Originally Posted by ServiceXp
Ok, Thanks.
Anyone tried flexible filament with these hotends?
I've used Inlands Flexible plastic and it printed the same as with the original hot end. No problems.
Well I've ordered 2, so looks like my turn for this mod... :-)
Inlands Flexible stuff is Poo Poo compared to NinjaFlex.
How so? Never tried NinjaFlex so would be courious on the benifits.Quote:
Originally Posted by jfkansas
The flex stuff from inland is like a slightly flexible PLA. NinjaFlex has rubber like properties and can be stretched and pulled every which way and it doesn't get destroyed. Well to a point...
Hello, new user to the forum. I have had the Miroswiss all metal hot end kit installed since it was released. I've printed in ABS and Ninjaflex Semiflex. Both print very nicely. The install wasn't that bad, but I did end up creating an intermittent break on the leads my right extruder's fan.(and didn't realize this) - this caused the right extruder to clog the next time I used it. When I took everything apart to clean I made sure to add the included thermal paste to the seat of the heatsink as well.
I installed mine ~2 weeks ago, and they have performed well. I did have problems getting both extruders exactly on the same plane. The way the instruction have you tighten the nozzle as the last step is what was causing my problem. I simply could not get both nozzles perfectly on the same plane doing it that way. I was forced to make adjustments to the entire hot end after everything was completed.
I'm sure it was me, as I am a bit OCD when it comes to some things, and really wanted those extruders exactly at the same height, which I wind up getting them darn close :o
Is there not a jig that you can print to align the height of the nozzles?
Here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1021725
Yes, but the instruction for the kit says to tighten up the nozzles as the very last step. This of course (at least in my case) doesn't allow the heights to be correct.Quote:
Originally Posted by king3d
I'm not sure how accurate a printed part can be used for a borderline precision adjustment. The on-line videos, of the factory showing how to adjust are using what looks like a steel gauge.
Any idea if one of these can be bought?
Getting the "heights" is definitely a problem. Plagued me for a long time. Worth the effort though.Quote:
Originally Posted by ServiceXp
Bottom line: the heights must be equal. It's not easy, but loosening/tighting the top and bottom to work both sides to get it equal is paramount to a good result. Keep at it. And, keep at it. And..... keep at it. Both sides must be 100% equal. the end result is the most important thing.