ABS Warping

I have been 3D printing and making a mess for years until I installed Cura from the manufacturers site and now things are much better. My printer is a Cocoon Create and for ABS I put the temperature at 245 degrees and 95 degrees for the bed. So this may be wrong?

There is still two things I need more information on.

1. ABS lifting on the ends. PLA prints good but ABS lifts up at the ends. My printer now lays down a wider brim for the item to sit on and the border sticks good but the print lifts off the wider brim, as per the photo.

2. Is there anything special to do when items span a wide area and it just does not print properly, as in the photo. I will try and print it vertical.

Any comments would be appreciated.


EDIT: I just noticed someone advised this for ABS years ago so I'll try those temperatures. "Change your temp to 230c and 110c for the hotbed".



Attachment 11663Attachment 11664

Second photo looks like partly clogged nozzle. Which printer do you have?

I have a Cocoon Create which is a copy of something like a Wanhao Duplicator I3. That is printing at 230 degrees but if I go much lower than that it looks like the ABS is not melting properly which is probably right.

In the attached photo the bottom of the centre one inch wide is all rough in both PLA and ABS. Looks like in this one it has to span a smaller space so does not like printing in mid air. A mate mentioned I need to put supports under that area so it prints properly. Not sure if that is right? (Just noticed Cura does supports so am doing a print with supports now.)I am printing it again with Raft on. I'll see how that goes to stop the lifting.

Any other comments would be appreciated.



Attachment 11665

Just trying different temperatures to stop the supports from having gaps.

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ABS requires an enclosed 3D printer with heated bed. Try a different slicer.

Mine has a heated bed but is not enclosed. I'll have to work on that.

I did a print last night and got it to stick to the bed for the first time ever in years but it came apart and warped further up this time in various places. Also I still have the Supports not fully formed. I removed the supports on the right of the photo.

Thanks for advising of the General Discussion Thread on ABS Warping. I'll check that out.



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any particular reason you want to print abs ?
pla and pet-g are both easier to print and just as good ((usually better) for pretty much everything.

You can print abs on an unenclosed printer - if you use a raft. I did that quite successfully for the first 6 months or so of owning a printer. Then I tried pla. No raft, stronger, better, faster, more accurate prints. never touched abs again.

But even with a raft, because of the built in shrinkage, you won't get good layer adhesion with abs.
So abs printed on an open print bed, will always be weaker than pla.

Things to check .. you said the print did not stick more than a few times.. Print not sticking would be starting height and the amount of plastic extruded.. if either of these are wrong you are not going to have good luck..
As was said PETG is a better choice for most things you would NEED ABS for like strong parts that will be outside.. It has no smell and no warping..
ABS is good for injection molding and was not invented for FFF.
Go back and make sure the basics are correct, if I have a print that comes loose, it is almost always related to staring height wrong, bed not level or filament diameter inconstancy (way under 1.75mm)
Good luck

Quote:

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Originally Posted by curious aardvark

any particular reason you want to print abs ? pla and pet-g are both easier to print and just as good ((usually better) for pretty much everything. You can print abs on an unenclosed printer - if you use a raft. I did that quite successfully for the first 6 months or so of owning a printer. Then I tried pla. No raft, stronger, better, faster, more accurate prints. never touched abs again.But even with a raft, because of the built in shrinkage, you won't get good layer adhesion with abs. So abs printed on an open print bed, will always be weaker than pla.

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The reason I have been trying ABS is that I bought 5 rolls when I got the printer almost 3 years ago and always thought that was the best and strongest but will have to try some of the newer ones.

The new Cura seems to be better than the one I installed 2 years ago so for the first time I turned on raft and supports and checked the bed and the print I did last night stuck for the first time in ABS. But as you said the layer adhesion on ABS was bad and many layers came apart.

This is on a very thin long item but a thick item seemed to print perfectly but with little pressure it broke but super glue fixed that. :)

Thanks for the comments.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by airscapes

Things to check .. you said the print did not stick more than a few times.. Print not sticking would be starting height and the amount of plastic extruded.. if either of these are wrong you are not going to have good luck..
As was said PETG is a better choice for most things you would NEED ABS for like strong parts that will be outside.. It has no smell and no warping..
ABS is good for injection molding and was not invented for FFF.
Go back and make sure the basics are correct, if I have a print that comes loose, it is almost always related to staring height wrong, bed not level or filament diameter inconstancy (way under 1.75mm)
Good luck

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My PLA sticks to the bed but one long thin item I have not been able to print in ABS without lifting from the bed for years but it worked yesterday when I turned on Raft but the layers separated up higher. Apparently from my printer not being enclosed.

When I bought the printer I bought 6 rolls of PLA which works good and 5 rolls of ABS as they were the main ones a few years back but have not had much success with ABS.

So looks like I need to get some PETG.

Looks like I am understanding things a bit better now so hopefully things will be better.

Thanks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kindoucha

I did a print the previous evening and got it to adhere to the bed unexpectedly in years yet it broke into pieces and distorted further up this time in different spots. Additionally I actually have the Supports not full grown. I eliminated the backings on the privilege of the photograph

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You need a fully enclosed printer to use ABS. I mainly use PLA+ now as that prints good all the time, as I have not enclosed my printer.

to add my happennies worth. Not all ABS filaments are the same depending on their exact formulation some are easier to print than others. we work mainly with ABS and nylon and in both cases we found we could work with some brads of filament and others failed or were unreliable for us.We found the easiest ABS to print with was ABS-x filament made by Mitsubishi in Holland and sold as own brand premium filament by several retailers as ABS-x by 3dfilaprint and as ABSpro by Oosnest that I know of there is probably a retailer near you,Next in order of ease we found the ABS regular also made by Mitsubishi and sold by the same outlets.Several other brands we have tried have proved almost impossible to print reliably.Incidentally we always pint onto Tufnol (Garolite) sheet with a very thin coat of ABS milk,

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The reason I have been trying ABS is that I bought 5 rolls when I got the printer almost 3 years ago and always thought that was the best and strongest but will have to try some of the newer ones.

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lol - I have several shelfs FULL of old abs.
I used abs for the first 6 months I had a 3d printer, then tried pla and have never touched abs again.
With a raft it worked reasonably well. Not brilliand but useable.
But I could never print without a raft and rafts make the base look horrible and can be right bastards to seperate from larger prints or prints that take a long time.

UNless you have a heated enclosure pla will always make stronger, more durable prints.
And their are so many different and easy to print with filaments out there now that nobody ever needs to use abs.

Plus it stinks up your workshop and you have to do matrhs to get the sizes accurate.
It's just way way more hassle than its worth.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by curious aardvark

But I could never print without a raft and rafts make the base look horrible and can be right bastards to separate from larger prints or prints that take a long time.

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I hate using rafts they are horrible, most of my models have a flat surface making the rafts unnecessary. though a heated print chamber sure make a difference.

I have tried quite a few different bed surfaces. At the moment I have glass on the bed and use diluted with water PVA glue and that really makes prints stick.

If it is a stiff print and bigger than 1.5 inches it is very difficult to get off the glass. So bigger prints I just clean the glass.

If prints are difficult to get off I put water around the edges and after about 20 minutes they come off.

So looks like I stay with a glass bed surface unless something better comes along.

So no raft needed when using a glass surface.

Have y7ou tried Tufnol (know as Garolite in the US) ?I have used it very successfully for over a hundred parts from vey small cylinders wit a tiny contact area to pully wheels of 125mm dia again with very low contact area.What I do is clamp a 1mm sheet of Tufnol and a 4mm sheet of borosilicate glass to the build plate. I sand the Tufnol with a 240 grit paper to remove the shiny surface and then coat it with a thin layer of ABS milk (approximate 10% solution of ABS in Acetone)With the bed at 80C I have an almost 100% record of success with ABS-x using a skirtand Oosnest ABS but sometimes needing a brim.Normally parts come free easily once the Tufnol has cooled below 55C any difficult pieces can be removed by flexing the thin Tufnol sheet once they have cooled.The only problem I have found is you have to clamp the Tufnol down all the way round to stop it warping,

Gambo

Thanks for the information. I'll keep it in mind but quite pleased with the glass bed at the moment. I have also bought a PEI sheet for the bed but have not tried that yet.