[Work In Progress] T-rex skull

After having done a lot of calibrating and running lots of test the last few weeks I finally started an actual print:

http://i.imgur.com/sY3d5Qn.jpg
This is straight out of the Flashforge Creator Dual without any cleanup. Printed at 0.1[mm] in PLA (the one that come with the printer). Time +- 30 hrs total.

http://i.imgur.com/7tow2yV.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/QYShktl.jpg
Still some spiderwebs visible, even though temp is at only 185 degrees and retraction is on for a full 2[mm].
Also still some problems (even though my massive cooling setup) with sharp overhangs of about 30 degrees from horizontal axis. The reason for this is because after the outlines, it also want to make it solid (because it recognizes it as a bottom layer) So it places the extruder there (185 degrees) to add only 0.001[g] of material there causing a lot of heat to enter the workpiece and allow it to curl.
That is why there are some weird curls in some locations and also the teeth aren't perfect because of this. Any advice is appreciated, but I will do some testing myself too.

After work I'll pick up some plastic primer and try to give this a nice paintjob. First painting test; which is something I will do a lot in the future if it all goes well.

RAWR:
http://i.imgur.com/F6xXtgG.jpg
And the .STL:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:308335

And here's the progress album:
http://imgur.com/a/gHNQe
(Also, I didn't print the base at 0.1[mm] cause I was in a hurry.. the skull itself already costed my over 22 hours to print.)

Has anyone else printed something similar with their Flashforge before?

we printed it as well, the same dino skull, but we couldn't get such a nice print in 0.2mm without adding a layer fan.
Here is our dino skull, cant fid how to post the pic in a larger size.
Attachment 2858

Very Nice indeed :-)
what infill level did you use ?

So did you use supports for that or not ?
(looks at thingiverse file)

No supports.

Might give that a go but at 0.3 mm and probably reduced size as well :-)

Have to say there were a few of those skulls at the show yesterday - and yours is easily as good as any of them. And some of them were made on machines costing £50,000 plus !

Right going for about a 70% scale t-rex skull at 0.2 in abs.
Added all four pieces to the bed and scaled till they just fit.

No more bulldog clips so i can happily use the whole bed.

I'll run it overnight from the sd-card.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by curious aardvark

Very Nice indeed :-)
what infill level did you use ?

So did you use supports for that or not ?
(looks at thingiverse file)

No supports.

Might give that a go but at 0.3 mm and probably reduced size as well :-)

Have to say there were a few of those skulls at the show yesterday - and yours is easily as good as any of them. And some of them were made on machines costing £50,000 plus !

Right going for about a 70% scale t-rex skull at 0.2 in abs.
Added all four pieces to the bed and scaled till they just fit.

No more bulldog clips so i can happily use the whole bed.

I'll run it overnight from the sd-card.

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Thanks :)

20% infill, no supports. Did get some warping at the pointy-and-large-overhanging parts .. like the teeth. If I fix that then it will definitely be a 50.000 pound machine! :cool:
Do want to fix that sometime.. maybe I need to reduce the temp even more (currently at 185 for PLA) or increase the fan duct (working on an improved fan duct that utilizes a 60[mm] fan - because my current fan makes TOO MUCH NOISE!)

Just wait till you see the painted model on Friday (currently drying before I add the clear coat, then I'll let it dry for a full day tomorrow.)

Nice print! looks pretty good really, is it uniform like that all the way around, ie is there any stitching marks or did you use a random starting point for the layers?

I always have suffered from a stitch line in the front left of my flashforge jobs, so I usually have that at the back of the model, it's not there if I print super slow, but once you get to 75feed/120travel, it is more noticable.

Here's a tip for you.
Don't leave yoda heads on the top of the printer case during a long print when you're not there.
'cos it'll fall off, get jammed under the platform and totally bugger up the print.

On the plus side geraldine's fine and I've learnt a useful lesson :-)
ie: not to use the ledge round the top of the printer as a gallery of useless things I've made from thingiverse lol

@geoff
how do you set random starting point with makerware ?
Stitching on circular things is annoying. never seen it on anything else.

I saw the setting on simplify3d. As well as the ability to set different infill for different models during the same print. And a bunch of other stuff that would really help.
But how do you do that with makerbot software ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by curious aardvark

Here's a tip for you.
Don't leave yoda heads on the top of the printer case during a long print when you're not there.
'cos it'll fall off, get jammed under the platform and totally bugger up the print.

On the plus side geraldine's fine and I've learnt a useful lesson :-)
ie: not to use the ledge round the top of the printer as a gallery of useless things I've made from thingiverse lol

@geoff
how do you set random starting point with makerware ?
Stitching on circular things is annoying. never seen it on anything else.

I saw the setting on simplify3d. As well as the ability to set different infill for different models during the same print. And a bunch of other stuff that would really help.
But how do you do that with makerbot software ?

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I think the new makerbot desktop has the option, the old one I can't seem to find it, the stitching happens on all my machines, but at least pronterface (which isnt much good to you if you havent swapped to a ramps board..) has the option to start in 3 different spots . Either the same spot, like we are talking about, or 2) a random spot or 3) the nearest location to the nozzle at the time of the finished layer.

I did look at the new makerware desktop - really didn't like it. Might try it again.

But assuming it's 100% compatible I'm pretty sure I'll buy a copy simplify3d.
Has all the good bits from all the other software out there and a bunch of stuff none of them have.

Right my questions were answered, so I'll be buying simplify3d - probably later today.
I hope this doesn't become a trend lol
Buying software, what's the world coming to ;-)

I had to go with makerbot desktop :( it sucks, it was the only way to get the endeavour ship model, regretting the purchase already to be honest, they are locking down 3D printing... I feel like im trapped in a cage using makerware desktop.

I'm using Simplify3d with my Flashforge Pro after trying all the other software I thought i would take the plunge and buy it.
Was a bit of a gamble considering they don't offer a trial of any sort and $150 is pretty steep for software you cant even tryout for yourself first... But since i am pretty new to 3d printing i thought I may as-well get it then i could just stick to one piece of software which helps in the long run. Whats another $150 on top of the $1,500 the printer cost me lol

But after using it i would never go back to any other software, Easy to use if you don't want to fiddle around with too many settings but also heaps of advanced options to tweak and play with. (manual support placement is great) super quick slicing as-well.
It aslo has 4 different Flashforge profiles built in, I dont connect my printer to my PC i just use a SD card so cant say too much about connecting via USB but from what i can tell it seems pretty decent.

Have a gallery of some of my prints here http://s1239.photobucket.com/user/Ee.../3D%20Printing basically all the coloured stuff was done using Simplify3d all using ABS except the blue items. (prefer ABS)

That T-Rex skull turned out great, It all most looks like its had some Acetone treatment:D
Since i want to mainly use ABS I'm trying to burn through the supplied PLA from Flashforge.

Just curious what settings you are using?
I am currently using 230c for extruder and 70c for heat bed with 3mm Retraction Distance seems to work fine at 2mm but not so much at 1mm. Also should i re-adjust the bed distance when going from 2mm to 1mm so its slightly closer to the nozzle?

EDIT: I actually have no cooling fan for PLA just the default extruder fan which may or may not be my main issue when printing at 1mm..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by curious aardvark

I did look at the new makerware desktop - really didn't like it. Might try it again.

But assuming it's 100% compatible I'm pretty sure I'll buy a copy simplify3d.
Has all the good bits from all the other software out there and a bunch of stuff none of them have.

Right my questions were answered, so I'll be buying simplify3d - probably later today.
I hope this doesn't become a trend lol
Buying software, what's the world coming to ;-)

---

I'm not sure if I already mentioned it; but I'm also using Simplify3D. And I've been really happy with the purchase.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Geoff

Nice print! looks pretty good really, is it uniform like that all the way around, ie is there any stitching marks or did you use a random starting point for the layers?

I always have suffered from a stitch line in the front left of my flashforge jobs, so I usually have that at the back of the model, it's not there if I print super slow, but once you get to 75feed/120travel, it is more noticable.

---

Random starting point; so no stitching; the only mistakes are, as mentioned, the small pointy parts with large overhang - but I will fix this with lower temp and better duct fan!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EeeK-Daz23

That T-Rex skull turned out great, It all most looks like its had some Acetone treatment:D
Since i want to mainly use ABS I'm trying to burn through the supplied PLA from Flashforge.

Just curious what settings you are using?
I am currently using 230c for extruder and 70c for heat bed with 3mm Retraction Distance seems to work fine at 2mm but not so much at 1mm. Also should i re-adjust the bed distance when going from 2mm to 1mm so its slightly closer to the nozzle?

EDIT: I actually have no cooling fan for PLA just the default extruder fan which may or may not be my main issue when printing at 1mm..

---

Thanks; since you're using Simplify 3D I can just share my profile (see attached)
You don't have to re-adjust the bed distance; always leAttachment 2896vel the same way - the software will do the rest.

Having a duct fan is nessecary (at least for me, with my settings, in my environment) - I'm currently working on a improved version that docks a 60[mm] fan (more air; less noise) so that should be good!

(unzip file and import in the process settings - do check if the right extruder is checked and check if the temp is good for your material (if possible; lower the temperature!!))

As promised; the moment you've all been waiting for (yeah right..) !! :p

http://i.imgur.com/2Q6pNyQ.jpg
Don't mind all the dust markings and fingerprints; I did this very hastily with 0 testing (this was the test.) Also; the lightning is a bit off; it actually looks like copper.

http://i.imgur.com/KBDxPgB.jpg
Is this even printed??!

http://i.imgur.com/bnQPLzL.jpg
Doesn't look printed to me!

http://i.imgur.com/pBQWYDo.jpg
Ahhhh! Here I see some print lines! Not sure why these are so much more visible than the rest... maybe I didn't spray as much on this part?

http://i.imgur.com/AUUsaP4.jpg
Overall pretty happy with the test.
I sprayed (everything) with:
- 2 layers of plastic primer
- 4 layers of filler primer
- 2 layers of copper chrome paint
- 1 layer of clear coat

The damage that was done due to non-perfect printer settings (pointy-large-overhanging-parts that curled up during print) are not visble anymore! But I will try to get rid of these with better printer settings.

Notes for next time:
- Wear gloves
- Less layers on detailed parts (teeth)
- More on parts with still visible printer lines
- Hang parts on iron instead of placing them on the desk in my dusty garage
- File off all artifacts around teeth / sharp parts.
- Wear gloves

Bonus shot:
http://i.imgur.com/ZRDQF0p.jpg
Hopefully this is all useful for somebody or at least you found it interesting to watch. I will keep improving my technique to finally be able to produce quality figurines with this printer!
Maybe I'll improve the paint on this one by filing off the particles around the teeth and then giving the teeth another color with some acrylic paint. (I will do that some day...) or I will start working on the improved duct fan for the Flashforge creator dual!

That is fantastic !
Also a surprise, as I wasn't expecting you to paint it gold !

Quote:

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I'm not sure if I already mentioned it; but I'm also using Simplify3D. And I've been really happy with the purchase.

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lol no you didn't or I would have asked you about it - repeatedly :-)

Two of the things the lady from 3dp unlimited showed me, that I really liked in simplify3d. The ability to have different infill (and probably other) settings for different models in the same print. Also the ability to automatically stop a print at any point. I want this for various bowls and vases.

Total layer and temp control, etc etc.

You could also work on some drybrush layering to get more texture out of the model, i.e so all the cracks are a darker shade etc.

Printing with our addon layer fan for the Creator X, we used the default setting used with Makerware (standard profile).
We did not use heated bed and the extruder temp was set to 230c.

Dargonfly that looks great! Love the paint job. That t-Rex is such a fun model to print. I think it looks pretty impressive for a relatively short print time. My skull turned out good in ABS I just need to figure out a way to print that rod successfully. It's so simple yet giving me such trouble, lol!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Serena

Dargonfly that looks great! Love the paint job. That t-Rex is such a fun model to print. I think it looks pretty impressive for a relatively short print time. My skull turned out good in ABS I just need to figure out a way to print that rod successfully. It's so simple yet giving me such trouble, lol!

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Thanks Serena,
I printed the rod by positioning it horizontally on the bed with a 0.2 layer height: round side bottom.
If you can get your bed to stick enough then it should be fine. If the print comes lose during the print then either make the bed stick more, or turn down the print speed (to prevent it from tubmling over).

But I think you could also print it vertically; just takes a bit longer and will create a tiny bit of cleanup for the second 'bulge'.
Good luck!

Is that link still valid? I tried to download the .zip and nothing happened.

link for what ?
The t-rex skull is still on thingiverse.

The link for the Print settings (temp/speed/fill)

just print it with whatever you like.
As I remember I think i printed the t rex skull at 0.3 layer height and it came out fine. Hel, bacj teh I thibk I even printed it in abs on an open frame printer.

It's a pretty forgiving model. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:308335

Its not about getting the job printed, its about getting the amazing quality he got. I'm trying to print a totally different model on a Flashforge, an I want an as-built surface finish similar to what he got. It would save me a few dial-in runs if I had a good starting point. Usually I don't aim for that type of surface quality so I don't have settings figured out yet.

He sanded and painted it.
That finish is not 3d printed :-)

Print it at 0.1mm layer height. It'll take a helluva long time but be very good quality finish.

If you actually read the thread - all settings, temps etc are mentioned.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by curious aardvark

He sanded and painted it.
That finish is not 3d printed :-)

Print it at 0.1mm layer height. It'll take a helluva long time but be very good quality finish.

If you actually read the thread - all settings, temps etc are mentioned.

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If YOU actually read the thread you'd see that the second sentence is "This is straight out of the Flashforge Creator Dual without any cleanup"

This was one of the first prints I did on my Creator Pro. I printed at 60% size in PLA. It turned out great with no supports (I did use a raft on the rod). Gave me a lot of into about how strictly you need to adhere to the 45 degree rule for supports. Hope it doesn't get me into trouble with other builds! ;-)