heads not level - thoughts please :-)

Attachment 3083

So does anyone know how to raise the right head ?
Probably only about a half or quarter mil difference. But it means I can't calibrate both nozzles to the same degree.

As I only used it briefly when I got the machine and it got jammed and basically I've been using the left head since then. I have no idea if it came like this. Or if I somehow lowered it by unscrewing it and replacing it. I couldn't calibrate properly from day one. That was mostly the unlevel bed - but this might have also been an issue.
Both heads are fully screwed in and won't go any further. So it's not that.

Either way it's no good as it is.
I did think maybe unscrew the left one a half turn - but the left head has always behaved impeccably, so i don't want to bugger it up.

Help !

My current thought is loosen the right carriage bolt and stick a couple sheets of paper on the right side to level the carriage directly. But that might bugger up the left nozzle, maybe. It'll be tilted - only very very slightly, but still tilted.

Anyone got any better ideas ?

I put a red cardboard washer under each side of the aluminium bar. This washer will compress a bit and it is plenty for adjusting the head. I use a DTI on the bed and move the heads over it then tighten or loosen one or other of the screws until my heads are level. I can get it easily with in 0.0005 inches which is reasonable for most things.

As a reference my Stratasys head level adjust is accurate to under 0.0005 of an inch, one turn of the screw is 0.001 so generally you can get it down to less than 0.0002. It is recommended that anything over 0.0008 is in need of adjustment.

From your picture the left nozzle looks very worn. If it were replaced maybe your heads would be level

nah that's just crap on it. Clean it up and it looks fine.
Do they get shorter with use ? Genuine question.

Plus I haven't been able to find any replacement heads that fit the plastic tube.
We're currently toying with drilling out a standard head ans they're dirt cheap and easy to get.

Cheers for the washer idea mjoilnir - it makes sense - just wasn't sure if it'd bugger things up. If not, then that's the simplest quickfix
Thanks, I'll try that later.

Shouldn't get shorter with use - unless you start dragging them across the build platform constantly - even then I am sure you would notice that ;)


I thought the head height could be adjusted - was reading on here last night a lot of posts and came across it.
There is a set screw in the aluminium plate above each of the heads. you can loosen it and then move the head up or down. It is on the front on mine (I noticed it last night when I had made the mistake of trying to print Ninjaflex and it wound around the motor - Doh! - will give it another go tonight now I have found the fix for it ;) ). There are two black allen heads right in line with the print heads.
Will see if I can find the thread a mo.

Ah here it is:
http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...ighlight=screw

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bobbler

Shouldn't get shorter with use - unless you start dragging them across the build platform constantly - even then I am sure you would notice that ;)


I thought the head height could be adjusted - was reading on here last night a lot of posts and came across it.
There is a set screw in the aluminium plate above each of the heads. you can loosen it and then move the head up or down. It is on the front on mine (I noticed it last night when I had made the mistake of trying to print Ninjaflex and it wound around the motor - Doh! - will give it another go tonight now I have found the fix for it ;) ). There are two black allen heads right in line with the print heads.
Will see if I can find the thread a mo.

Ah here it is:
http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...ighlight=screw

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If you try to adjust the heads that way then you will be there for ever getting it right and you run the risk of damaging your heat transfer tubes, they get very tight in that top aluminium bar. I wrecked both of mine trying to adjust.

Can you not put two similarly sized spacers in the gap above - thinking something like a feeler gauge would be ideal to give you the clearance the same for both sides?
I am assuming of course that the heads are exactly manufactured to the same length though.

the heads don't neccessarily drag. But they do bump across the surface a lot if you're using a raft. And i pretty much just printed on rafts for a few months.
I'm thinking that's probably the best explanation. The left bugger's worn.

Hmm, so use the right head till it's as worn as the left one, looks like the best quick solution. And replacing lefty in the longer term.

So does anyone know where i can get a new nozzle that the little plastic tube fits into ?

A set up gage like this could be useful;

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:299331

What is with the little plastic tube thing? Does your printer have the PTFE tube that is in the stainless heat tube protruding from the bottom and so fitting inside the nozzle?

My head has 0.3 nozzles that were a few $ for 10 and the PTFE in the heat transfer tube sits flush at the end of the heat transfer tube. It all works with no problems.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 616Engineering

A set up gage like this could be useful;

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:299331

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The problem with that method is that it assumes your head is parallel to your bed which is not normally the case. To level you have to move the head over a point that is a fixed distance from the bed so that you are measuring the same thing for both nozzles.

Have you checked this thread? It details how to fix it on the FF original and I believe someone corrected the thread for the Creator Pro or X

http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...-across-prints

mines the straight creator (I think lol)
I did look at that screw and then at the metal noizzle which would seem to be bang up tight against the thing above it.

Having problems with the white reprapper pla at the moment . It either needs to be printed at temps above 220 - or it's utter shite.
Either way I still think the right nozzle is buggered.

So where can I get spares ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by curious aardvark

mines the straight creator (I think lol)
I did look at that screw and then at the metal noizzle which would seem to be bang up tight against the thing above it.

Having problems with the white reprapper pla at the moment . It either needs to be printed at temps above 220 - or it's utter shite.
Either way I still think the right nozzle is buggered.

So where can I get spares ?

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I would get a nozzle cleaner kit before I bought a new nozzle, with the exception of some very very bad black filament I got, there has been no blockage a small piece of metal wire didn't fix.

I keep them on hand at all times now.. They are just a fine metal wire, basically a guitar string that's small enough to poke up through the nozzle hole.

PLA blocks my extruders, it happens. ABS never did because I guess it's always at the high heat. With my prusa, I literally unblock the nozzle before each print because the PLA went so crap inside.

I have cleaned the nozzle a few times. Having had extrusion issues with this pla at 215, I'm thinking I just wasn't runnig it hot enough. And no I didn't try it with any other pla before I pulled it. Didn't have any more time to buger about as I had someone coming and needed to get it working.

So I'm pretty sure the left nozzle is worn short. And there's no actual problem with the head setup.
I need spare nozzles.

Where can I get spare nozzles, other than flashforge usa. ????????????????????????????????????????????????

I can't understand your problem getting nozzles. I just bought 10 for a few $ and bought heat tubes the same way. Is yours different from mine or what?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by curious aardvark

I have cleaned the nozzle a few times. Having had extrusion issues with this pla at 215, I'm thinking I just wasn't runnig it hot enough. And no I didn't try it with any other pla before I pulled it. Didn't have any more time to buger about as I had someone coming and needed to get it working.

So I'm pretty sure the left nozzle is worn short. And there's no actual problem with the head setup.
I need spare nozzles.

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Aliexpress has them: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/prod...981661391.html

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Stigern

Aliexpress has them: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/prod...981661391.html

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Do note that these look like the 'original' ones.
(see this link: http://www.flashforge-usa.com/shop/nozzle.html )
I think I have the 'updated' ones on my printers.. but not sure.

Be careful on the nozzles, they aren't all compatible from brand to brand. Different thread sizes are used.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mjolinor

What is with the little plastic tube thing? Does your printer have the PTFE tube that is in the stainless heat tube protruding from the bottom and so fitting inside the nozzle?

My head has 0.3 nozzles that were a few $ for 10 and the PTFE in the heat transfer tube sits flush at the end of the heat transfer tube. It all works with no problems.

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May I ask where you got the 0.3 nozzles for the Flashforge? Flashforge themselves wont sell me anything below 0.4... and I would really want some 0.25mm (but I'd settle for 0.3mm)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by curious aardvark

Attachment 3083

So does anyone know how to raise the right head ?
Probably only about a half or quarter mil difference. But it means I can't calibrate both nozzles to the same degree.

As I only used it briefly when I got the machine and it got jammed and basically I've been using the left head since then. I have no idea if it came like this. Or if I somehow lowered it by unscrewing it and replacing it. I couldn't calibrate properly from day one. That was mostly the unlevel bed - but this might have also been an issue.
Both heads are fully screwed in and won't go any further. So it's not that.

Either way it's no good as it is.
I did think maybe unscrew the left one a half turn - but the left head has always behaved impeccably, so i don't want to bugger it up.

Help !

My current thought is loosen the right carriage bolt and stick a couple sheets of paper on the right side to level the carriage directly. But that might bugger up the left nozzle, maybe. It'll be tilted - only very very slightly, but still tilted.

Anyone got any better ideas ?

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I have a new extruder mounting system in the works. First samples are being cut right now. If anyone is interested in the first samples PM me. I am going to sell below my cost in the initial batch. The initial tooling is very expensive so just looking to recoup some of the costs.


Attachment 3113

Here is a sample of what I will be offering. It is a complete redesign of the cooling bar and filament guides. All in Machined aluminum. New heatsinks will be included.

As you can see in the picture. I am using a clamping bolt from the sides. This will allow both extruder mounting tubes to be loosened and then you can jog the build plate up until both touch the plate. Then you can just tighten the clamps.

In addition, the heatsinks are much more user friendly. No more nylon spacers and screws that hold the steppers through the fan. The steppers and Heatsinks bolt directly to the the cooling bar. Then the fans mount to the heat sinks with screws at the top.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dargonfly

May I ask where you got the 0.3 nozzles for the Flashforge? Flashforge themselves wont sell me anything below 0.4... and I would really want some 0.25mm (but I'd settle for 0.3mm)

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I don't have a Flashforge, I have a Wanhao. I have spent most of thread trying to find out what the difference is but no one seems to want me to know.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mjolinor

I can't understand your problem getting nozzles. I just bought 10 for a few $ and bought heat tubes the same way. Is yours different from mine or what?

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from where ?
I know the buggers are out there - just don't want to buy from a dozen different suppliers to find the one that fits my machine.

Ah I think the wanhao uses a different extruder. It's a lot more expensive than the flashforge so I'm guessing it's not identical.
We could meet up and compare machines - can't think of any other way of finding out the difference :-)
You're about 110 miles away - which could be as a short as 2 hours, depending on delays on the m6 :-)
Or you could measure your nozzle and I'll measure mine and we'll see if they're the same. That's probably a more practical approach :-)


The problem is you can get the flashforge nozzles from the states for not cheap money - or things on ebay that are really cheap but either the wrong thread or hole not big enough for the tube.
And there's no way of knowing without buying. I have yet to seea supplier on ebay use apicture of the end of the nozzle so you can't tell how large the bore is.

My mate has access to industiral tool making kit, so I might just buy a bunch of cheap nozzles and get him to drill them out to the right diameter.

I'd also like some spare tubes - but again can't find any uk suppliers - or chinese ones come to that.

I think I'm the old style nozzle, certainly looks like that in the pictures.

I bought 10, I can send you a couple to try. These are 0.3 but you can bore them out if you want.

if you've got some digital calipers just measure the thread length to the hexagonal piece and the hexagonal piece to the tip of the nozzle and the internal diameter of the main bore.
And i'll compare that to mine :-)

Thanks for the offer - but if they're the same I'll just buy some myself :-)

these italian guys on ebay seem to do them and down to 0.2mm diameter as well dargonfly.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ESTRUSORE-...item4d2274ba47

But they want £6 postage for something that might weigh 5 grams.
You could probably tape it to a postcard and it'd get here.

I think I'm either a mk7 or mk8 extruder. Probably a mk7 looking at the ebay adverts for the machines.
I have no idea what the difference is or how you tell which is which.

Pictures

Attachment 3118Attachment 3119Attachment 3120

The thread is a standard M6.

These are the ones I bought:
http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/6189638840.html

I don't see that thread length is important really. You just screw it in all the way and then screw the heat transfer tube down tight to it.

The Flashforge threads are M7 x 1

It is better to screw the nozzle into the heat transfer tube. Otherwise you will have to fully disassemble the hot end to reseat the heat tube to the nozzle.

You should be able to do most maintenance with the hot end assembled and installed in the cooling bar. Just heat and use a wrench to unscrew the nozzle from the bottom. The teflon tube will generally come out with the nozzle.

They must be completely different from the Wanhao then. The nozzle and the heat tube both screw into the heat block. The nozzle does not screw into the heat tube.

Yes, must be different. The teflon tube inserts about 5mm into the actual nozzle then the rest of the teflon tube goes up the heat tube to almost where the filament enters. I am working also on a new heaterblock and heat tube that is all metal and takes the 6mm threads, but still goes into the ~7.8mm opening of the flashforge cooling bar.

yep those nozzles you have are standard. The bore on mine and the hexagonal bit and the thread length are all larger.
hence my problem :-)

I can pay about £15 for one from the states. And that's probably what i'll have to do. Or see if dave can drill out the main shaft to fit my teflon tube, in which case I can probably just buy cheap ones.

Good drawings of the ins and outs from Google groups.

The first is (I think) what you want. The second is similar to what I now have but my PTFE tube stops about 20 mm up. My original heat tubes had no PTFE and had no thread at the top. I made my heat tubes from 6mm stainless threaded bar so I had threads all the way up instead of it being plain where it went into the aluminium mount so I now have nuts top and bottom like picture 3.

Attachment 3125Attachment 3126Attachment 3127

I don't think there is enough "meat" there in the brass to drill out to 4mm to fit the PTFE tube. That's why the FF nozzle has bigger M7 threads.

Monoprice had the nozzles for a good price but I think they are out of stock for another week or so.

Is the PTFE not 3 OD and 2 ID?

It is 4mm x 2mm

That's a weird size. I think that given the way these seem to be so non standard I would chuck the lot and use standard stuff.

It's one of this is what it is things. Maybe in the future they will, but it requires production line changes and new parts to be developed and tested. You can't just throw new parts into the old design.

well to be fair they don't wear out that often. And given the number of machines of this design around you'd think they'd be a standard stock item.

I'll try the right nozzle again with known filament. If it works I'll just use it till they're both worn down to the same level :-)
Just make sit tricky for dual colour stuff and I'd like to do some of that.

Might have a play with the levelling screws as well.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by curious aardvark

well to be fair they don't wear out that often. And given the number of machines of this design around you'd think they'd be a standard stock item.

I'll try the right nozzle again with known filament. If it works I'll just use it till they're both worn down to the same level :-)
Just make sit tricky for dual colour stuff and I'd like to do some of that.

Might have a play with the levelling screws as well.

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ive been following this thread with interest as I have the same problem. My left extruder is higher so to get close enough to the bed for the filament to lay down means my right side is dragging across the print. A big mess. Mine came that way though. I am going to contact the flash forge guy and see what he says. I'll let you know if it's anything helpful.

They they have a picture of the new nozzle contrasted with the old one:

http://www.flashforge-usa.com/shop/p...es/nozzle.html

Wish they still had the front screw adjustment like with the older one. I'm nervous to try taking anything apart. Keep us updated on whatever you try. ��

I'#ve got the front screw adjustment. But I looked at the tube and couldn't see anyway it could go any higher.
Next time I get the time, I'll have it to bits again and try wiggling.