Just finished my first print out, but it stick on the print bed. @@
Any good method to take it out?!
Thx
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Just finished my first print out, but it stick on the print bed. @@
Any good method to take it out?!
Thx
What is your print bed surface made off?
Normally I use a metal scrapper with a very thin edge to wedge to ply the part out, you just have to be careful not to scratch the print bed surface.
Also when I do my own designs, if I see the part could have sticking problems, I add printing pads around the bottom edges, basically circular pads about 0.5 or 0.6mm high that are easy to get a wedge under and then they help to lift the whole part off.
Simply adding a skirt around also helps to do that, but if the part is stuck good and hard the skirt will probably shear around the bottom edge without ever lifting the part; I suppose it would be possible to use a skirt more than one layer in height, two or three, to help with that.
Some time ago in the Slic3r subforum at the reprap forums I suggested an idea to have the option to create a pull-up tab when doing a skirt, like this:
Attachment 6700
The red represents the part being printed and the black the skirt plus the tab and ring to pull it off the print bed. It could be easy to create that as part of the stl too, but of course having it as an option in the slicing software would be more convenient.
I forgot to add, if your part is really stuck you may have to remove the print bed and give it a tap or two on the underside with a rubber hammer or something similar; depending on what your print bed is made of and how it is installed this method could go from being very easy and quick to a risky PITA... and all the stages in between. :D
Detailed answer.
Different adhesion methods require different technique.
If it is a glass build plate, and use Kapton tape, hair spray or 3M blue tape for good adhesion,
you can heat the plate before removing the object, it will reduce much adhesion for easier taking off.
You can also turn canned air duster upside down to spray the liquid out and flash cool the part.
My 3D printer is M3D with metal print bed. Anyway, I use the cutter to take it out...... :mad:
keep the plate heating, and use a shovel to remove it. The printer supplier should provide this tool along with the machine.
Sorry... not heat bed..... :(
tape or a sharp razor scraper.
with small parts I often hit them lightly with a hammer and that breaks the adhesion.
good job pla isn't brittle ;-)
Hammer!!!!
I usually use metal scraper, hair spray or Kapton tape, depending on the type of adhesion used.
I use pads, but this gives me the idea to add a 45 degree overhang to the edge of the pads, so you can easily get under them.Quote:
circular pads about 0.5 or 0.6mm high that are easy to get a wedge under
you'd think so - but no.
Hell some of the parts I've had recently I've picked the machine up by them and shook it - still stays on calibration.
Now I always heat the bed back up to 60 for larger parts and can get the scraper underneath.
I'm always amazed how stable the thing is :-)
Genuinely can't remember the last time I calibrated it.
that said there's probably a layer of glue stick half a mm thick :-)
I think that takes care of any minor shifts in calibration.
And doesn't seem to effect the print in any way.
But considering the batterig the build plate has had recently it's pretty amazing that i can still just hit print and watch it go for another perfect print.
Also impressive how well the four little bits of kapton tape at the corners hold the bed. It's rock steady.
I'm going to try some abs at 60c later - see if that also sticks to the glue stick base.
I'm not keen on the stuff - but I do still a lot of it on the shelf, that needs using up.
in the lab we use blue type to protect a bed and for easier taking out . just remove printing with the type from the bed. much easier in my opinion
Cricut spatula tool. I have the one that came with a scraper,which i do not use, it was 8.92 on amazon. Works very well