Well, I did it, I just ordered a i3v 10" model and an extra 40mm fan!
Now to go order a power supply, power cables, etc.. ;)
Robert
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Well, I did it, I just ordered a i3v 10" model and an extra 40mm fan!
Now to go order a power supply, power cables, etc.. ;)
Robert
Congrats....
welcome to the club it's a lot of fun :-)
Thank you! I'm looking forward to it.
Everything that I need is ordered at this point, so now I just wait.
Robert
Yeah, welcome to the family. If you run into odds and ends questions while you wait on shipping, feel free to see if anyone's around on the Makerfarm IRC sniffle set up. There's usually a few of us hanging around there.
Thanks printbus...
I have been going through the manual/videos again. I watched the 8" version ones the first time through, I doubt there is much difference.
While I have been doing that I have been finding and printing modifications and other parts that look useful.
Robert
Worth every penny, congrats
Guys,
What should be on my list of mods up front?
This is what I have thus far...
Improved End Stop Switches
Print Cooling Fan
Control Knob
Belt Guides http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:359773
Hexagon Improved Cooling Shroud
Z Probe Servo Mount
Bed Leveling Clips
What else should I be looking into?
Robert
Itty bitty belted extruder or the itty bitty double extruder.
:-) and maybe go ahead and print a backup extruder the stls are available in ther 12" build instructions.
Sniffle,
I actually looked at the belted extruder, if it cuts the weight by half as it says, I imagine that would have some impact on your ability to crank up the acceleration and improve speeds while maintaining quality. :-)
A backup extruder set is a good idea!
Robert
Out-of-filament switch to pause a print when the filament runs out http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:285504 http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,297350,399545 http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...ll=1#post29673
bed scraper & holder http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:387825 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:229978
vibration-dampening feet http://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=i3v+feet&sa=
filament guide http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:298386 I suggest using a length of teflon tubing (like the kind used for bowden extruders) with the filament guide to prevent binding.
Some very good suggestions, thank you..
Robert
w00t!
My printer is shipping today, I should have it on Thursday! I think I have nearly everything except the glass and paint on the way :cool:
Now, to consider taking some vacation time... hmmm
Robert
I tried out the vibration feet.. i found the printer shook alot more with them, too much bouce
I have mine sitting flat onto two large 12x24 ceramic tiles and its solid
The printer has arrived! The wooden components, with the exception of the print bed support piece, is currently drying from its second coat of paint on the first side. I hope to be able to start assembly this evening.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...901/OsrHVS.jpg
very nice! you'll enjoy it! i promise, might take a little work to get going properly but you will enjoy it :-)
That sounds good to me. I'm sure it will be a test of my patience.. haha
The first side is done, now onto the other side. This Krylon covers quite well with just two coats, it looks better than in the picture.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...537/BPGLyR.jpg
Both sides are painted now and have been drying since ~ 3 this afternoon. It has been quite difficult to not start assembling it tonight, but I figure a little extra drying time will be good.
I will start with the assembly tomorrow and plan to get everything functional and tested, including ABL, before I put the wires through the sleeving material I have.
Looking good N5QM, and sorry I'm late to this party but welcome!
To respond to your question about mods to print, here are some I use and would reccomend. I've bolded ones that you should print and use right off the bat and are easy prints, and other unbolded ones that you can (in my opinion) grow in to ;)
1. clough42 - LCD Spacer, Sorbothane Isolation Feet, Print Cooling Fan, Adjustable Z endstop, Improved Hexagon Cooling
2. zen1 - Pushfit Belt Guide (print one for the x and the y)
3. swiddie - One Tool Belt Adjustment Bracket
4. schlotzz - RAMPS 40mm fan mount
5. benlew - i3v Control Knob
6. neonpolaris - Spool Mount Smoother
7. gmay3 - (shameless plug) Snap on LED Tray, Rear mounted spool holder (upgrade after using the stock makerfarm holder + neonpolaris spool smoother)
Thank you for the suggestions!
The printer is in one piece now and I have a test print in progress.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...661/CrNjop.jpg
Here is the printer as it looks at this point.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...661/BEG1E4.jpg
one suggestion if you are printing ABS, flip the fan around so that it pulls air from the hot end and blows it out instead of plowing air in to the hot end and dow toward the part... it'll save you some headaches trying to print other parts.
Good suggestion, I noticed, while checking everything out, that the fan blows right down onto the part after it passes the hot end and was wondering how that would turn out.
I will flip it around shortly. :cool:
Here is the first print... I have some tuning to do, but not bad considering.. ;-)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...540/iBnz8Z.jpg
Couple of questions. I will be painting my kit as well soon, just sorting out the parts and doing an inventory. I wasn't sure whether to paint the parts while still all attached together, or break them out as you have done. If printed all together, would the parts "stick" together as the paint dried, if painted individually would paint on the side walls affect fit. Any thoughts?
Is there any specific reason you used Krylon paint? Finally are you treating the heat bed support with anything, or just leaving it as is.
I'll answer in reverse order.. :-)
I actually used Rustoleum Universal Satin Black, I must have had Krylon on the brain when I was writing. I bought three cans, but a single can got the job done with two coats on each side.
I did not paint the heat bed support because of the warping issue that has been discussed and I didn't want it to be a problem if I needed to get a replacement from Colin.
I broke all of the parts out of the "shell" to make sure that the edges were also painted. The tolerances are very tight, so I don't think the paint would do a good job of getting between the sections otherwise. I expect you can paint it after it is all together, but I am not a good painter, so I tried to keep it simple. haha
The part that I didn't share about the picture with the parts laid out is that it was 30F when I was painting, so I did it in my garage and had a space heater blowing on the parts to dry them. After everything was dry to the touch, I brought it inside overnight to help cure the paint. Now of course, it is 60F outside.. :-/
I don't think it's an issue with the i3v, but when I painted my i3, I cleaned out all the holes and separated all the pieces first. This was a mistake, as it made the fit very tight. When I painted my i3v, I didn't clean out the holes, and left all the pieces attached as long as possible. I figured the edges were dark anyway and didn't need paint :-P. So I can't say how the fit is after painting the i3v if you paint every piece separate from the others.
I will admit that the main frame components and the side pieces where snug but otherwise everything went smoothly.
An update for those following along...
ABL setup completed and very worthwhile as I no longer have to check the bed regularly. I used the following parts.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:335632
I printed and installed these threaded rod covers so I don't poke my eye out. :D
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:157421
I created and installed this rounded spool holder cross member to stop the spools making noise while turning.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:684329
I printed and installed these vibration dampening components, well worth the effort and made the machine much quieter.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:322915
I also spent time yesterday cutting all of the cables to length, sleeving them, and crimping new connectors onto the wires.
The machine is now looking much more respectable and working very well.
Congrats :) Nice work. Thanks for sharing. I should be building in about a week and I'll likely use some of your suggestions :-)