Anyone have the Monoprice maker architect? How are the prints?
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Anyone have the Monoprice maker architect? How are the prints?
Bought one for my son for Christmas - was up and running very quickly. I'm brand new to 3d printing, so I'm not sure what to compare it to, but we printed a few things at .1mm resolution and they came out pretty smooth. Works just fine with PLA, but at some point I'll try to figure out how to add heated bed for more filament options. Hope that helps. I'd be glad to answer any questions about his machine as best I can. I bought this one because it was upgradable and hit my "magic" price number of $300.
Sweet thanks. Can you upload any pics of prints?Quote:
Originally Posted by aforsman
Here's some picsAttachment 8184Attachment 8185Attachment 8186Attachment 8187 of something he's working on now - it's a combination lock that has several pieces. May not be the best quality images (taken with my phone). I got as close as the camera would allow without blurring. These were printed at .2mm layer resolution.Quote:
Originally Posted by canadabear07
Awesome thanks!
No metal frame, no heated bed, plastic arms. Think twice!
have you not read a single review on this printer? Some of the best printers I've seen are made of a plastic or wood frame. And I'll be upgrading to a heated bed. My only other option was the maker select and although this doesn't have a heated bed and all that, this is supposed to give better prints. Can't find one bad review on this printerQuote:
Originally Posted by Sebastian Finke
Really? Heated bed with plastic arms? Good luck. And why do you think newer printers have metal frames? Ever heard of vibration damping?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sebastian Finke
this printer is pretty much the same as the flashforge creator. So basically all your saying is that the flash forget creator original is a pos. Which it's very far from. Do your research before you go and make up stupid crap.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sebastian Finke
Hmm and the flashforge creator has plastic arms and a heated bed
I have no idea what you're saying. Speak english.Quote:
Originally Posted by canadabear07
Quote:
Originally Posted by canadabear07
You need to wake up to reality. The MB Rep1s and the FFCs had massive leveling issues due to their plastic arms and users ended up swapping them for 3rd party ones. This presented a whole new set of problems as the hole patterns on the MB1 (for which the arms were originally designed) did not necessarily match up with the hole patterns on the all the clones. Perhaps you should do your research. And stop asking for advice if you're not interested in any.Quote:
Originally Posted by canadabear07
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sebastian Finke
Lmao oh gosh. Your probably some old man no wonder you can't figure out what I'm saying. And I'll take advice just not from you. I've done research and found nothing about the '' plastic arm problem '' your talking about. So please just do me a favor and don't reply to this anymore. K? ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by Sebastian Finke
have to say seb - you're way way wrong on this.Quote:
The MB Rep1s and the FFCs had massive leveling issues due to their plastic arms and users ended up swapping them for 3rd party ones.
My ffcx has wooden frame, plastic supports for the heated bed and is all original. Only really gets calibrated when i change the print surface, has around 900 hours of pretty much faultless prints (I don't go in for long high resolution prints), doesn't have vibration issues and has never had levelling issues.
The original 3mm bed will warp - but I just dropped a level 3mm aluminium plate on that and never had any head drag or print level issues since.
The bed is a good way from the arms and even when I didn't know better and was using abs - the heat never effected the levelling.
I would even say that the 4 wheel levelling system is way better than the later 3 wheel system. So much quicker and easier to level with the wheel at each corner setup than the weird 2 at front 1 at back system.
I've got both so i do know :-)
Looks like someone just got burned :DQuote:
Originally Posted by curious aardvark
lol maybe reminded that there are a LOT of ffcx's out there still running on factory spec :-)
You may disagree but you are not quite right. :)
Have to back to the history: The original MB Rep 1 was a PLA only printer and as such was equipped with an acrylic platform on plastic arms. When Flashforge and the slew of other clones arrives on the scene they decided to use the same design but added a heated bed and and marketed them as ABS/PLA printers. This is where things started falling apart as plastic arms cannot a) be used successfully at over 105C as 105C is the glass point of ABS causing the plastic arm to deform and b) repeated heat cycling will also cause the arms to fail. The FFC's and early FFCX's had plastic arms and caused massive problems for users heating over 90C. This is the reason for the countless metal arms on offer.
While the wooden cases can produce great results these were chosen early on due to their low-cost. With the growth of the 3D printer market almost all modern machines boast a metal frame. A metal frame beats wooden panels any day in terms of rigidity, giving a better finish. All pro/industrial machines have metal frames for a reason. Again, only an issue if require higher quality surfaces i.e. less ringing.
3 point leveling is far better to 4 (or more) point leveling. Having 4 or more points to seat can cause twisting/rocking of whatever you're trying to level. Maybe 4 points works for you but it it certainly isn't superior from an engineering perspective.
Hi,
I really don't know your background, but to most "normal" engineers hearing you want to do "precision" printing at 0,1mm with a wooden frame is like telling me you want to go over a 100km/h in a wooden cart. Can do, but somehow I'm not tempted.
Cheer up and happy new year.
Another Negative about Wood , I just discovered,
is that the assembly Screws keep getting Loose.
Tighten them and a few months later they are All Loose Again !
(mainly dew to wood compressing and vibration, I guess)
Hate to bump a thread, but just wondering how anyone who has this printer is getting along with it.
With the sagging Canadian dollar, this is starting to look very appealing, in the face of a few of it's short comings. Wondering if it would prove to be on par or slightly better than the MakerFarm i3v I have now....
I have it. It produces good prints with just a little tuning. I would highly recommend this. Best printer for the money
Any upgrades you did to it? Wondering how it performs with smaller detailed items....Going to need a print cooler I see...
I received one for Christmas and have been having a lot of fun and learning it's limitations. Rigidity can be an issue. If I'm printing something tall but thin, the sudden changes in direction makes the machine shake and you end up with a pretty wobbly looking print. This is really a problem if the object is rectangular rather than curved. I've tried slowing way down but need to work out the layer time such that the PLA has time to set up before the next layer goes down. I can watch the head move the previous layer around. This doesn't seem to be a problem below .75" in height. Seems like rigidity to me.
I'm using Cura and then routing the code through ReplicatorG to produce the x3g file. I really like the ability to look at the layers before printing. I had to make a couple changes to the start up code to get it to work. I also added a plugin to add % complete that Cura doesn't include in their gcode.
I've looked into upgrades. Monoprice seems to have put in a smaller power supply which will have to be replaced if you want to use a heated bed, perhaps a second extruder. The drivers for the second extruder are also missing from the Mightyboard. Not a big deal and they don't seem to be expensive but it's a little more than just adding a second extruder. I'm not sure what I would do with a second extruder. The heated bed has me interested with the hope that it would help the parts to stick. I'd be interested in comments. PLA is fine at this point. I've read the comments about the plastic arms.
It's been interesting learning how to drive it and also getting getting my head to switch from taking a block of metal and removing material to only putting down what I want. Different perspective.
I'm having a bit of trouble with my parts sticking to the bed even with a raft. It may be because I was playing around with extruder temp and and went from 210 to 205. I'll have to go back to 210 and see what happens.
Steve