1/8" glass bed installation question

Consistent with most, my aluminium bed that came with my Power Spec 3D pro is warped. I would like to replace it with a 1/8" sheet of Borosilicate glass but information seemed to be scattered across forums. If you've done the installation, can you please review the following and let me know if I'm missing something?

Mcmaster_Carr 1/8" (3.2mm) 6"x9" sheet of Borosilicate glass (PN: 8476K74)
Z-axis shim I plan to use: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:515065
corner cilps I plan to use (open to a different model for 3mm): http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:546851

I believe I read that some people avoid using clips by using a silicon sheet beneath the glass above the aluminum. Anyone have comments on this?

Thanks for the help.

after reading this post it seems that I can remove the aluminum bed and forget using the shim for the z-axis. http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...ighlight=glass

How have you determined your aluminum plate is warped? No you shouldn't remove the aluminum. Get the 3/16" plate from McMaster.

i consistently have problems with the lower right part of the plate (closest to the door) while the rest of the plate is fine. instead of smooth lines I get wavy lines but i've lived with it. Raising the right and front doesn't seem to help much. Discussed it with a local print 3d print shop and they recommended I try a new build plate as they've had warping issues on their makerbot. Reading the google forums led me to believe its a rather common problem across makerbot/flashforge/powerspec

Why 3/16" over 1/8"? I can't seem to find any information on pros/cons of going thicker. Was this to better match the thickness of the original aluminum build plate?

Just a little more stable piece of glass. Nothing really to match the aluminum.

Are you leveling with the build plate fully heated? Very important.

actually I wasn't...i'll give that a try before purchasing anything and report back. I've been printing with PLA anyway and use a 60C bed with blue scotch 3M tape.

b4 you go the glass plate route read these posts by me

http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...g-to-glass-bed

http://3dprintboard.com/showthread.p...xi-Build-Plate

the second one links back to the first, however i can say without doubt the PrintinZ flex plate is absolutely amazing, prints are perfect, it does need cleaing from time to time this can be noticed when the prints dont stick, but a quick rub with rubbing alchol and all is back to printing perfection, print do really just pop off the plate, anything that is to stuck, just flex the plate and it falls right off. it reall is the best plate adaption i have ever made.

any more info plaese mail me.

Thanks for the heads up on the PrintinZ flex plate, i'll check it out

I tried glass and eventually added a 3 mm aluminium plate on top of the existing one.
used kapton tape to secure at the corners. And haven't looked back since.

I can pretty much guarentee if I'd had a glass plate it would have broken by now.

Some of the prints have been brutal to remove. Cracked it now, for the relectant prints I just heat the plate up to 60 and I can get my scraper under a corner.

Find a local aluminium engineering firm and get tham to cut a piece of scrap to size for you. It'll be cheap.

Also for an extra 3mm you don't need a shim.
There should be more than 3mm play in the adjustment springs, so you still get full build height and don't need to fiddle with anything else.

I have 6 x 9 x 3/32" glass and used a thick layer of hair-spray to attach it directly to aluminum plate, on CTC printer.
Used clips to hold it in place while drying, took about 12 hours for hairspray to dry completely, under the glass.

It has Stayed in place very well, knocking and prizing objects off glass has Not moved the glass. :)

Note: I also use hair-spray to hold printed objects on glass

Effectively gluing the glass to the aluminum isn't a very good long term plan. The best thing about using glass is being able to unclip and remove it. Then if you have 2 pieces exactly the same thickness you just slide a new one in, prep it with what ever adhesive, then start printing again. It all depends on what you are printing I guess. Small stuff plucks of glass pretty easily when it cools down. I have been printing large pieces with a flat solid bottom. It takes quite a bit of work to get these off the build plate and it is good to be able to slide a long flexible putty knife on all sides to gradually lift it.

some great posts everyone! Thanks for all the input/options.

After heating the stock buildplate to 60C for PLA prints, I still had leveling issues in the front right quadrant. I end up with wavy lines and have to use a raft if printing in the middle of the plate due to this.

I ended up buying a 3/16" sheet and used a 5mm shim along with 2 corner clips. Used the S3D bed leveling without a hitch and printed V2 of this bed leveling design (the one that is positioned above the wingnuts). Long story short, i've never had this great of a first layer before, all without tape. Off to grab some aqua net hairspray tomorrow to see how good it can get.

I'll look into getting a piece of 3mm machined aluminium from a local shop if I can. Would be interested to see the comparison.


clips: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:715545
5mm shim: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:515065

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jfkansas

Effectively gluing the glass to the aluminum isn't a very good long term plan. The best thing about using glass is being able to unclip and remove it. Then if you have 2 pieces exactly the same thickness you just slide a new one in, prep it with what ever adhesive, then start printing again. It all depends on what you are printing I guess. Small stuff plucks of glass pretty easily when it cools down. I have been printing large pieces with a flat solid bottom. It takes quite a bit of work to get these off the build plate and it is good to be able to slide a long flexible putty knife on all sides to gradually lift it.

---

with the flexi plate, you dont need 2, or adhesive, prints do just stick to it, when you finish printing a prat just flex the plate, take the part off, reinstall plate and print again, it ereallay is the best type of plate you can get, ok so its abit more expensive, but the cost saving (wasted prints, adhesive, solvents, ect all add up) im in no way affilated with the company behind it, but i have to say they got it right.

do a youtube search for it you will see exactly what i mean.

One on the glass plate: don't bother with those printable corner clips, they don't hold the glass securely enough (at least not for me and I tried four different types). Also stay away from the metal paper clip method, as your extruder will crash into it.

The two best ways I've found to secure a plate is to either tape it down with some kapton/pet tape, or use a silicon thermal pad (0.5mm thick).

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by djprinter

One on the glass plate: don't bother with those printable corner clips, they don't hold the glass securely enough (at least not for me and I tried four different types). Also stay away from the metal paper clip method, as your extruder will crash into it.

The two best ways I've found to secure a plate is to either tape it down with some kapton/pet tape, or use a silicon thermal pad (0.5mm thick).

---

I agree, none of those clips worked well...so i modified a set and made my own! Holding strong the last 30hrs of printing and very easy to adjust when needed since there are wingnuts on the bottom and you dont need to remove the nut.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1001405

With Aqua-net spray holding the glass to bed , you Don't need any clips !
(Except to hold glass in place while spray is drying)
Try it, you will Like it ! :)

Note: It will just wash off , with wet cloth, if you ever need to replace the glass

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by blairmi2

I agree, none of those clips worked well...so i modified a set and made my own! Holding strong the last 30hrs of printing and very easy to adjust when needed since there are wingnuts on the bottom and you dont need to remove the nut.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1001405

---

The problem with printable clips is that they're made of plastic, they may work a few times before they start slipping and screwing up prints.